Latex Liquid Nails, or any latex based glue (in caulking gun tubes),
along with 1" screws every 6-9". Just don't use any polyurethane type
glues, because they expand as they dry and it will make for a wavy
On my tinplate layout, I zig-zagged liquid nails [paneling adhesive]
and set the 4x8 Homosote atop the 4x8 1/2" plywood. Then, using
wallboard screws, screwed the homosote to the plywood, about every 8
inches, then next day, removed all of the wallboard screws.
NMRA Life # 1735; TCA # HR-78-12540; ARHS # 2421
Durham, NC [Where tobacco was king; now The City of Medicine]
One more thing, I think it is best to spread an EVEN layer of the
latex adhesive with a putty knife, covering the entire surface with no
gaps. This will also help with sound deadening, as the latex dries
flexible. Some people like to also remove the screws after the glue
sets but I never do. I don't know, I guess I am fearful of the homasote
seperating without the screws there but this is probably just paranoid
speculation on my part.
Around these parts we just spread some white glue on the plywood and
screw down the Homasote on eye-balled, 12 inch spacing. After it
dries you could take up the screws and re-use them somewhere else, but
no one ever seems to. Seems to work great with no complaints. BTW,
you can buy the white glue in gallon containers. I got one for free
at the time and that's another reason I used it!
Paul - "The CB&Q Guy"
One more thing: The Homasote should be sealed after installation with
a water based primer (basic latex paint will also do), edges too, so it
won't absorb too much water while doing scenery. Some use shellac mixed
with mineral spirits but the fumes from this rule it out for me.
The "superior tackability" sounds great, but how about the
sawdust problem? Have you cut any of it (I'm thinking about
the possibility of ripping the 3/8 into roadbed on a 30 degree
angle, ripping those in half lengthwise, and possibly also of
putting partial angles cross cuts in it - very much like
Homabed. But it sounds like a professional level dust
collection and exhaust filtration system would be required.
You wrote:"...Some use shellac mixed with mineral spirits..."
I used to use a lot of shellac for wood finishing; in fact I have
almost a pint of it in a spilled and hardened puddle that glues the
food freezer to the cellar floor. If you want to thin shellac,
it seems to me that denatured alcohol would be the thing to use,
since that is the solvent the stuff is already mixed with. I
like shellac fumes; they have a nice old-timey smell. But then
hydrocarbons always seem to bring back pleasant memories for me;
Using methyl ethyl ketone or mixing up polyester resin that
exudes vapors of styrene monomer you get when mixing up polyester
resin reminds me of my auto-body days, naphtha and degreaser
remind me of the motor-repair shop. I wasn't at either of those
places very long, but I had fun.
Incidentally, the model-building press worries way too much
about solvents. Yes, you should use common sense, but don't
go overboard. If you are putting lots of vapor into the air
in an enclosed place, as when spray painting a 1:1 car, yes
you should wear a mask, but if you are just painting a Tyco
boxcar orange with a spray bomb it is perfectly all right
to do it on the back porch or fire escape with a cardboard
box to contain the overspray and preserve the porch's paint
and good domestic relations. Then again, common sense can't
be bought in a box and buckled on.
My late neighbor Paul Bannon cobbled up his own central dust
collection system in his basement. It was amazing, but then so was
his vertical mill (converted from a drill press), his metal lathe
(modified greatly from a small wood lathe), the extra pipes and
blowers he had added to his furnace ducts to even out heat distribution,
the tags and labels on every wire, junction, and pipe, and the
industrial pale green paint on his cellar walls. Anyway, I don't
know what this mineral board is made from; if it's some kind of pressed
fiberglass or mineral wool you could saw it with a handsaw and avoid
the dust problem.
Shellac and mineral spirits ????? The thinner for shellac is
alcohol :-). But the fumes are still pretty strong.
Just saw something in an old MR where the manufacturer claimed
Homasote was sealed when made so it wouldn't absorb water while
outdoors at a construction site. I don't know if that's still
true or not.
I read that, and since hand ripping strips out of it with a 30
degree beveled side would be boh arduous and lacking in
precision, power tools seem to be required, but my shop vac
would not stop fine particles and those are just what I worry
about getting in my lungs. Now, a HEPA shop vac might do the
job, but I'd hate to guess the price.
Does anyone have any experience of reasonably priced high
filtration dust collection sysems?
I have seen descriptions of pre-filters for a shop vac built from a
small drum/barrel and some bits of PVC pipe. Fill the drum partially
with water (maybe 2/3?) and arrange the PVC pipe such that the air
(and dust) is sucked through the water...ferinstance, I would make the
inlet go near the bottom, and drilll lots of holes, maybe 3/8 in
diameter, through the pipe near the bottom. This will allow for lots
of airflow, but not tend to suck all the water out of the drum and
into the vac...
I'm not having much luck Googling for a description of such a
system...maybe I'll do some playing this weekend.
Don't bother to reply via email...I've been JoeJobbed.
You can make a pretty good water filter for a vacuum by using a five gallon paint
can. These can be purchased new at many places such as Home Depot, Lowes,
etc. You need to put the inlet pipe in through the top and have it extend to
the bottom of the can. leave about two inches of clearance so stuff can get
the tube without stopping it up. Drill multiple small holes in the inlet pipe
the area of the bottom two inches to reduce the incoming air blast The outlet
needs to extend down about one-half inch below the top. fill the thing with about
three gallons or ten liters of water and crimp the top down with the tabs built
it. You can use bulkhead fittings to pass the tubes through the lid. Bulkhead
fittings are available at plumbing supply stores and marine stores.
Here is an expensive, commercial version of my home-made "rainbow" water filter.
This talk about Rainbow vacuum cleaners reminds me of a Kirby salesman
I used to know. He said the Kirby people told him that Rainbow cleaners
"smelled like farting in a bathtub" (and I quote). So he went home and
"farted in a bathtub, and heck! they were right!" Now there's a salesman
When I was in high school, the word for the sound of a fart in
a (preferably porcelanized iron, for the appropriate
resonance) bathtub was "bork!".
Now you now why that Supreme Court candidate never had a
chance. His pronounced right wing paper trail and kooky crew
cut were minor factors.
I have no explanation for the recent popularity of a certain
Scandinavian musical entertainer, unless it's the amusement
factor inherent in her name. No other factors seem to account