IHC Passenger Cars Couplers

That's probably the #505 and/or #508 conversion kits.

Paul

Pat:

There is a page in the Walther's catalog which shows which KD for all brands of cars, freight and passenger.

Heavyweights...6 wheel trucks, #505...Streamline (lightweights) 4 wheel trucks #508. On page 274....'04 edition. Hope this helps.....

Don

You have two ways to go. Kadee and McHenry make direct replacements. The IHC factory horn hook coupler mounts on a long shaft that snaps onto the trucks, giving a "talgo" (truck mounted) coupler. If you can find the direct replacements, it's an easy conversion job, just pull off the old couplers and snap on the new ones. However it may be necessary to order the replacements either from Kadee's web site or IHC's web site, my local hobby shop (a LARGE local hobby shop) doesn't stock them. There is a difference between the 4 wheel and 6 wheel trucks, which requires a different snap in coupler. Then there is the other way. I have been converting over to body mount couplers. A standard Kadee #5 coupler box will fit each end of the IHC car. I use a Dremel to trim back the bottom of the diaphragm so the coupler box mounts flush up with the sill strip at the end of the car. A bit of styrene under the coupler box gets it level. This puts the coupler at the right height. I drill up thru the center hole and into the car floor to take a #2 sheet metal or wood screw to secure the coupler box top, to permit future coupler repair/replacement. Body mount couplers are less likely to derail on backing moves, and they look better. I can manage 18" curves and stay on the track although you will be happier on wider radius. The IHC cars are light. They will stay on the track better if weighted up to NMRA recommendations (5-6 ounces).

David Starr

I've been doing something very similar to what David has been doing except I use the longer shank Kadee #46 mounted further back on the car. This gives it more flexibility on short curves. There are also the Kadee #41 and #49 to make the coupler the right height without having to shim or trim things.

McHenry makes magnetic knuckle couplers that clip in place of the horn-hook. Make sure sure you get the correct style - differnt cars have differnt shank lengths.

If you are running on 24" radius or larger curves, you could body-mount KDs, just make sure you use long shank couplers. Some shimming will be required.

HTH&GL

Thanks for the suggestions.

While on the subject, there are a few other things one can do with IHC cars. Interiors with seats and washroom walls and such are available from IHC to fit. The interiors come molded in bright primary colors. They are more effective if painted some light satin finish pastel color. You can brush paint those white napkin things on the seatbacks to make the seats show up better through the car windows. Metal wheels to fit are available. The interior light kit for the Walther's line of passenger cars will fit the IHC's. This kit gives a very nice constant brightness lighting. If you do light the cars, be sure to paint the interior, the factory issue black plastic soaks up the rather feeble light. Also, the plastic is somewhat translucent the the lamps may shine through the car roof unless it is painted. In some cases the plain stainless steel cars can be improved by painting a bright horizontal stripe through the car window area. A good number of roads (B&M and NH for example) painted them this way. Mask off and spray paint the underbody a flat gray. The floppy plastic snap in truck retainer pin can be replaced by 6-32 machine screws and a #6 flat washer. For an elegant job, tap threads in the truck mounting holes in the plastic bottom of the car.

David J. Starr

Hi:

Your problem has been quite common over the years. There are no NMRA standards or Recommended Practices for couplers. Before deciding upon a solution, first determine your goal. On full length passenger cars, radius is an important factor. Do you intend to use working diaphragms and close coupling? Do you intend to switch cars?

There are many alternatives in coupler choices and mounting methods plus varied opinions on these. It might be wise to examine the possibilities before accepting any advice.

For a very extensive analysis and discussion of couplers and their relationships to rolling stock, curves and operation, plus examples; see first site below.

Hope this helps.

Thank you,

Budb

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Not exactly true. Check RP-21 and 22. The centerline height of the coupler is an NMRA RP as is the size and shape of the coupler pocket. It is truethat there are no NMRA standards for a working knuckle coupler and at this time there probably shouldn't be. Several companies either have new designs on the market for semi-scale couplers, or have designs in the pre-production stage.