RR vs washer/dryer

For those of you whose RR has to share space with your washer/dryer, how much of a problem have you found that to be, especially wrt dust/lint etc.?
What have you done to minimize the problem? How well has that worked?
I'm looking at replacing my 14 year old stack washer/dryer with separate units side by side and putting an upper level RR deck over them, so they're gonna be real close to the RR.
Thanks...
Mike
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Nooooooooooooooooooo

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Michael Brown wrote:

It may be trouble than it is worth. But if you really must - Provide a sheetmetal dryer exhaust duct that has all joints sealed (think duct tape), provide easy access to the washer hoses (clearance issues to the track supporting structure), consider a plastic roll-up drape that can be secured over the trackwork perhaps using a magnetic strip along the bottom to minimize dust.
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Is moving the washer and dryer upstairs an option? That's what I'm doing. The wife "appreciates" my consideration for her because she won't have to carry all the laundry down and back up the stairs. (And of course I appreciate not having to deal with the machines in the "layout room"!)
Hint: The older she is the more appealing this option looks to her.
Paul - "The CB&Q Guy" (Modeling 1969 In HO.)
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Washer/dryer move is not an option unless they go into the kitchen, but the kitchen is too small already. My house is a 1-story ranch on a slab (no basement or 2nd floor). Washer/dryer and water heater are in 1-car attached garage, which I want to remodel to be another interior room shared by washer/dryer (water heater evicted, replaced by those little on-demand heaters located elsewhere) and layout.
Total space is about 11x25. N-scale layout, to be around-the-walls double deck with helix/staging in adjoining rooms.
Was planning on some sort of air filtration device in the room, maybe HEPA? Sounds like a good idea to also cover the layout when it's not in use.
Mike

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Mike wrote: *** Was planning on some sort of air filtration device in the room, maybe HEPA? Sounds like a good idea to also cover the layout when it's not in use. --------------------------------------------------- An electronic air cleaner is a very good idea. I have one in the 'railroad room' and it has more than paid for itself.
Bill Bill's Railroad Empire N Scale Model Railroad: http://www.billsrailroad.net Brief History of N Scale: http://www.billsrailroad.net/history/n-scale Model Railroad Bookstore: http://www.billsrailroad.net/bookstore Resources--Links to 1,100 sites: http://www.billsrailroad.net/bills-favorite-links
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The CB&Q Guy wrote:

<off-topic tangent>
I really don't understand why laundries are still in the basement, expect for that's where the builder put the hookups. Back in the days of open-top ringer washers it made sense to have it on a cement floor with nothing underneath. Modern machines mean leaks and floods are rare. Our 1981 house has a ground-floor laundry, and even that's not going far enough: really, they should be as near the bedrooms as possible -- that's where most of the laundry is generated, and whence it returns. And most important: it would leave moire space in the basement for important functions like you-know-what ;-).
-- Kizhe
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Leaks/floods rare, but not nonexistent and can make quite a mess when they happen. My washer pump developed a pinhole leak a few years ago that wet the floor. Not a whole lot of water, and only leaked when the pump was operating, but enough to be a nuisance.
I'd be more concerned about a water supply hose breaking/leaking, as that could make a huge mess in a hurry. In the garage remodel, I'm planning to install a valve/timer device on the washer supply lines. With these you push a button on the unit when you want to wash a load and it activates the lines for two hours and then shuts them off. Keeps pressure off the supply lines most of the time and you don't risk the lines breaking when you're away at work when a burst line could flood all day before you return. I think these units cost less than $200, seems good insurance.
Mike

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install a valve/timer device on the washer supply lines. With these you push a button on the unit when you want to wash a load and it activates the lines for two hours and then shuts them off. Keeps pressure off the supply lines most of the time and you don't risk the lines breaking when you're away at work when a burst line could flood all day before you return. I think these units cost less than $200, seems good insurance. << ====================Mike,
I've heard of these but have never seen one for sale around here. Who sells these and would you possibly have a link to a source for one? Thanks.
Paul - "The CB&Q Guy" (Modeling 1969 In HO.)
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a slightly different device is the Watts A2C-M1 Intelliflow. (I have no relationship with this company) it detects the electrical flow to your washer and turns the water on only when the washer is actually calling for water electrically this is about $150 you can get more info at
http://www.plumbingworld.com/washing machineshutoffvalve.html
Bob
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So what? The lines are engineered to exist and survive in a pressurized state.
If you turn off the inlet valve, but do not have a waste drain, you do not relieve any pressure on the line. Merely closing off the source does not relieve any pressure. All it does is trap it in the line. If you have a waste drain, then you are using more water than you otherwise would if you simply left well enough alone. Use the proper hose to connect the supply to the machine, and you will have a hose that will tolerate many more times the pressure that any residential water supply system will ever generate.

Having not experienced any water problems with a washing machine during the past 60 years, I wonder why such a device is needed?
It does nothing. Nothing, that is, except relieve your pocketbook of a few ounces of weight which could be put to much better use elsewhere. It is the Emperor's New Clothes. Froggy,
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Call it paranoia, Froggy. Maybe it is. Maybe it is a bit of money wasted that could instead buy another loco or two. But...
Hoses can have materials/manufacturing defects, weak spots, etc.
Washing machines can break down and leak as well.
Some insurance companies will blacklist your house if you ever file a claim for water damage, because they're paranoid about future mold claims. Or maybe it's just greed? Nonetheless, it can make insurance difficult or impossible to obtain, or at the least horribly expensive.
So I consider it another layer of security.
I have not personally had any problems with burst hoses, but I know a guy who had major damage done to his house this way. I believe he had to replace lots of drywall on several floors of his house when it happened.
Mike
wrote:

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for water damage, because they're paranoid about future mold claims< Insurance companies in this area have taken mold claims off the insurance. Unlike flood insurance, I'm not even sure you can pay extra for it.
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Front loader washers grow their own mold. The factory installed gaskets do not work. There is a recall, but it is unpublicized.
Jim Stewart
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what brand and model
Jim Stewart wrote:

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Maytag Neptune cost $800 could have bout some Brass for that. Jim

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Got any more info on this? Brand/model, specifics on the problem, etc.?
Most interesting to hear of this. I had been planning to replace my current stack unit with separate washer/dryer side by side under the layout. Figured I'd get the Whirlpool Duet or similar - front loaders with controls/buttons on the front face. Maytag Neptune would have been another possibility, but I've heard they've got some significant reliability problems.
But based on the earlier discussion here re lint/dust problems vs RR (may be even more critical for me with N-scale), I'm seriously considering relocating the washer/dryer. If I do this, I'd probably get another stack unit to replace my current one.
Mike

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I had the neptune 5 years. Had problems they covered the tub only. $500 repair bill it worked one week. now have the duet. the duet system can be stacked.
Michael Brown wrote:

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I had their bug guy (he is on our faculty) look at the black crud on the liner. They came out and replaced it quite rapidly. But I have to run an extra empty wash with bleach to keep it from regrowing....
Jim

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