truck tuner - any good?

I'm in the process of changing all my cars to Kadee wheels. When I've changed some of t he cars (mainly Walthers) the new Kadees do not run as
well as the old plastic wheels. In fact they are very stiff.
I'm thinking of buying the truck tuner from Micro Mark but as I live in the UK I don't have any opportunity to see how well it works before buying. Has anyone used this and is it any good?
Alternatively, can anyone suggest some other way to get good running (short of changing the whole truck that is!)
--
Mike Hughes
A Taxi driver licensed for London and Brighton
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Mike Hughes wrote:

That's because the axles are a little long compared to Walther's plastic wheels.

The Truck Tuner works as advertised. I use Reboxx's version, which is called Exxact Socket. What they do is ream out the bearing to the NMRA standard 60 degree cone. They also remove any flash around the edges of the hole. I also use a B5 pencil to put a little graphite in the bearing.
The tools also deepen the bearings, which in your case is a good thing, but is can also cause the axle to slop around a bit in some trucks. That usually make no serious difference. Reboxx makes wheels with different axle lengths, so you should be able to find a set that fit with little or no slop.
Lifelike (now owned by Walthers) and Atlas also offer metal wheels on plastic axles. You should have a few of each type - they're all well made, but the slightly different axle lengths can make a difference.
HTH
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I agree with Wolf...it works as advertised...from what I've seen the Micro-Mark unit is exactly the same as the Reboxx unit...I suspect Micro-mark gets them from Reboxx. Cheers Gene

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Wed, 16 Aug 2006 22:23:47 -0400, Wolf Kirchmeir posted in article

Angle/flash removal yes, but I haven't noticed any deepening. Or maybe mine isn't working correctly. :)

Excellent wheels with a more prototypical .088" tread width, which may cause some problems on poor track work.

The Reboxx sampler of wheelsets with different axle lengths is handy, too. It's listed as WS-Samples on their order form .pdf linked at <http://www.reboxx.com/wheelsets.htm . They also have a chart of axle lengths by truck manufacturer, and it's accurate, IME.
--
OvC

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Works very good, in fact we are having problems with cars that roll too easy.
-Hudson
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Could you please elaborate on how this could be a problem???
dlm
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 17 Aug 2006 20:53:37 GMT, Dan Merkel wrote:

The leetle teeny brakemen needed top hold that boxcar parken on the 1/2 % grade spur are demanding a pay raise.
--
Steve

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Thu, 17 Aug 2006 14:11:36 -0700, Steve Caple posted in article

Raise? My brakemen are still whining about non-functioning brake gear. Ingrates...
--
OvC

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If the yard is not perfectly level, the cars tend to roll.
We are having to use wheel chocks on some industry spurs.
Under track magnets will uncouple moving trains because the cars roll so freely that just the magnetic pull on the brake hoses causes enough slack to run in to uncouple the cars.
-Hudson
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Dan Merkel wrote:

I don't about Hudson's problems, but I've had/seen these two:
a) The cars roll on very slight grades, so if your siding aren't dead level, they won't stay where you leave them; and b) if you are too slow backing up to the car you want to couple to, you'll nudge the car rather than couple to it.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I have one of these, and highly recommend it. Esp if you're changing over from Walthers wheelsets. I've noticed alot of the RTR cars where whoever assembled the wheelsets dug a gouge into the bearing with the needlepoint axle tip. That truck tuner will clean that right up.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.