truck tuner - any good?

That's because the axles are a little long compared to Walther's plastic wheels.

The Truck Tuner works as advertised. I use Reboxx's version, which is called Exxact Socket. What they do is ream out the bearing to the NMRA standard 60 degree cone. They also remove any flash around the edges of the hole. I also use a B5 pencil to put a little graphite in the bearing.

The tools also deepen the bearings, which in your case is a good thing, but is can also cause the axle to slop around a bit in some trucks. That usually make no serious difference. Reboxx makes wheels with different axle lengths, so you should be able to find a set that fit with little or no slop.

Lifelike (now owned by Walthers) and Atlas also offer metal wheels on plastic axles. You should have a few of each type - they're all well made, but the slightly different axle lengths can make a difference.

HTH

Angle/flash removal yes, but I haven't noticed any deepening. Or maybe mine isn't working correctly. :)

Excellent wheels with a more prototypical .088" tread width, which may cause some problems on poor track work.

The Reboxx sampler of wheelsets with different axle lengths is handy, too. It's listed as WS-Samples on their order form .pdf linked at . They also have a chart of axle lengths by truck manufacturer, and it's accurate, IME.

Works very good, in fact we are having problems with cars that roll too easy.

-Hudson

Could you please elaborate on how this could be a problem???

dlm

The leetle teeny brakemen needed top hold that boxcar parken on the 1/2 % grade spur are demanding a pay raise.

Raise? My brakemen are still whining about non-functioning brake gear. Ingrates...

If the yard is not perfectly level, the cars tend to roll.

We are having to use wheel chocks on some industry spurs.

Under track magnets will uncouple moving trains because the cars roll so freely that just the magnetic pull on the brake hoses causes enough slack to run in to uncouple the cars.

-Hudson

I don't about Hudson's problems, but I've had/seen these two:

a) The cars roll on very slight grades, so if your siding aren't dead level, they won't stay where you leave them; and b) if you are too slow backing up to the car you want to couple to, you'll nudge the car rather than couple to it.

I have one of these, and highly recommend it. Esp if you're changing over from Walthers wheelsets. I've noticed alot of the RTR cars where whoever assembled the wheelsets dug a gouge into the bearing with the needlepoint axle tip. That truck tuner will clean that right up.