flywheel removal

hi, advice needed please, ive got a lister d stripped down to almost the bare bones, i say almost because the flywheel is proving troublesome. i removed the gib key ok and have got the flywheel nearly all the way off the cs and it is now stuck. ive got nowt much better than a toffee hammer so am gonna resort to heat. im bit concerned after reading dire warnings concerning heating flywheels so any ideas gents..... thanks in anticipation.....chris.

ps.. i read a comment about how this news group seems to have more lurkers than posters, well after seeing the total berating some poor chap got for the cardinal sin of attaching a photo, and the verbally violent flame war that followed its perhaps not surprising. i put it that men of ancient iron are by nature not neccessarily au fait with news group etiquette........ :-)

Chris You make some fair points. Despite that this group is one of the most peaceable and helpful you'll find. As for etiquette its pretty much the same as a group of people face to face. If one were wander up to a group of unknowns and blurt out a question without taking a moment to see how the thing works then...... A signature along similar lines to mine helps to act as an introduction and a location helps folk to identify with the poster. Its a fact that using the normal rules of English will be more likely to induce an answer.

If the flywheel is stuck halfway then I suggest that its worth checking the crank for rust and burrs (or even a bend). If after carefully removing them with a fine file and/or emery tape its still stuck then, slather it in diesel and, take the whole crank/flywheel assembly and drop it vertically flywheel-down onto a hardwood or lead block on good solid concrete. Inertia should do the rest Do the latter ONLY if the flywheel is solid. hth

hi, thanks for the advice, and i will resume the chris d, v, lister d flywheel scenerio with renewed vigour. im a member of the kingswood, bristol, old iron appreciation scociety, and many years ago actully worked with mr siddorn, he wont remember, but his many witty contributions to this forum amuse me greatly. you guys are a veritable mine of information and experience in the world of the stationary engine, and i guess my general point is forget the rules, and etiquette, and if a newby is askin for assistance, then surely his "greenness", can be forgiven...... :-). chris

It all depends on whether the shade of green is the correct one! (wink)

Brian L Dominic

Web Sites: Canals:

of the Cromford Canal: Light Railway: Newsgroup readers should note that the reply-to address is NOT read: To email me, please send to brian(dot)dominic(at)tiscali(dot)co(dot)uk

Kingswood, somewhere I lived for a short while.

I have seen no mention of the style of flywheel. Are you able to get a large hub-puller onto it? If so, this might be easier than lifting the whole thing (with crank) and dropping it (hopefully not on ones foot). I have seen some quite large pullers in my time and they can often apply a great deal of impetus to move stubborn things from shafts.

Its most likely solid and 99.9% will come off easily once the crank is cleaned and dressed. A puller is certainly an option but will have to bear on the rim if the fw is solid. Apart from the cost/availability I have seen a lot of things wrecked by inappropriate use of pullers and presses. The big advantage of the drop method is that it provides impulse rather than pressure. It is sometimes possible to add impulse to a puller with a big hammer but that carries a risk of belling or otherwise distorting the crank I've managed to avoid my feet so far, its only a 6-9" drop, but would agree that steel toe-caps and a good back are essential. ttfn Roland

hi, it is a solid flywheel, i have so far managed to strip down with no specialist tools needed and am loathed to buy a puller for what is an inch or two of cs to go. (the annoying thing is im off work recovering from a busted hip, and we have the required pullers in the engineers shop.!! doh.). anyway, i will try the drop method to push it back on the cs and then make a better job of cleaning up the shaft to facillitate complete removal. the engine is a 1959 reverse rotation "d" and was a box of bits and, apart from a missing mag and exhaust, pretty much complete. so, after obtaining the missing items, i threw it all together and she runs and sounds beautiful. i could have gotten away with leaving the flywheel on, but i want to check the main bearings, and also with the fw off i can make a better job cosmetically of restoring her......... :-)

ps thanks for the tips and advice.......chris

Hello Chris,

Thank you for your kind approbation, flattery is never wasted, I find!Where did we work together? - give a man a chance ;o))

Regards,

Kim Siddorn

bristol, old iron appreciation scociety, and many years ago actully worked with mr siddorn, he wont remember, but his many witty contributions to this forum amuse me greatly.

hi kim, it was at grays motocycles and was for a short period, as you left for pastures anew, i was amazed to walk into the workshop and see a full on norseman.....lol..........i came from trinity garage in hotwells and found motorcycles a tad on the finicky side so bein as how i didnt resemble the back of a no 9 omnibus they shoved me out in the showroom, where i proceeded to spend my days gettin piddled at lunch time in the bristol fashion and pulling women, (that honda melody was good for me) and not selling many bikes..............!!! i do recall buying a honda cx 500 on a hazy fri afternoon and having to wait til monday to see what it looked like..lol... i tended to pass on the best bikes to mr tnr...and there lies a v funny story...for another time. anyway i got a couple of lister ds and like reading the postings in this group as i say you guys are a veritable mine of info on all things internal combustion that doesnt move..... :-)