L'Aster - pump needed

Pretty quiet here recently ;o))

I am quietly collecting parts for the L'Aster to turn it from an engine into an exhibit. The wood compo pulley has been machined to fit the mainshaft flange now, thanks to Andy Dingley's efforts - thanks Andy!

I have also found it an appropriately-sized water tank and ground off the ridge on the steel pipe fittings that give away their later manufacturing date. I'm sorting out the magneto drive & the project is actually going along quite well.

I'm obviously aware that convection cooling is reliant upon the height above the engine, but I'm keen to keep down the overall height of the completed exhibit. The principal reason is I would like to get it into the back of the Volvo & to do that will mean a tank on the same level as the engine. I also feel that this relatively small engine would be easily overshadowed by a gurt tank hovering over its head!

Therefore, I'm going to need a waterpump of a suitable age - at least in appearance - to move the water through the tank - it also gives it a little load, too, which is useful. I don't see it as needing to be of great capacity & light weight would be a desirable feature.

Any suggestions, gentlemen?

Regards,

Kim Siddorn.

Reply to
Kim Siddorn
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You're only going to need to move a tiny amount of water through the engine to cool it. The size of pump you need will be correspondingly small, and I can't imagine the engine will even notice it, so a bit of a non starter as far as providing a load is concerned. Try entering this number on ebay: 4611471645 It may be the very thing you need.

Regards

Philip T-E

Reply to
philipte

"Kim Siddorn" wrote (snip):-

Most sales seem to boast a few small gear pumps - probably ex machine tool suds pumps - usually in iron but sometimes in bronze. Should do the job and look the part, might even have one somewhere myself if you are really stuck.

And you're right; it's quiet - too damn quiet!

Reply to
Nick H

We have a Stuart-Turner engine water pump possibly available, in return for favours past?

Don't know about fixing and gettiung water through it, but it looks interesting when running!

Peter

-- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk

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Reply to
Prepair Ltd

Thinking about it, I'm not sure how true this is. Provided the "cold tank" is higher than the "hot engine", I think extra height is wasted. Certainly extra pipe length and extra friction would be a bad thing.

Assuming that the engine ran without a pump originally, I doubt it would need one now. Try it without, with a couple of thermocouples in there, and see how hot it gets.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

Andy,

When I first got my Lister L runn> >

Reply to
Campingstoveman

All the cars that used thermo-siphon cooling that I've encountered, all had the bottom radiator outlet well below the bottom of the water jacket. Perhaps one of the main reasons for elevating tanks was more one of room and accessibilty?

Tom

Reply to
Tom

You have to have a thermal gradient for the thermosyphon to work, and you also have to have a height or column of water to establish and maintain a flow.

Hot water rises and cold water falls (surprise!) but the top of the tank must be sufficiently high above the top of the cylinder so that the hot water can rise up, it's no good having the top of the tank at the same height as the cylinder top as the water cannot rise and draw cool water up through the block.

The bottom of the water jacket is not the same as the bottom of the block and from memory the bottom of the tank is usually slightly higher than the inlet to the block so water goes downhill into the block.

The Lister drawing for the tank-cooled CS 6/1 shows the tank with about a 12" rise from the outlet to the tank top port, the bottom connection is shown almost exactly at the same height on tank and engine.

Peter

-- Peter & Rita Forbes Email: snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk Web:

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Reply to
Peter A Forbes

"Tom" wrote (snip):-

Surprised it works at all upside down ;-)

Reply to
Nick H

Us colonials do know how thermo-siphon does or regrettably didn't work that flash in our more equitable climes, less so on some of our higher climbs...

However, Ford 93A engines for one, had the bottom radiator tank well below the bottom of the engine water jacket, remember how many thermo-siphon radiators had the crank handle pass through an opening in the radiator bottom tank? Yes the top tank was also approx 10 or so inches above the cylinder head.

Tom

Reply to
Tom

I'd not thought of it before, but of course, Tom is right. It must be something to do with the car having a radiator rather than a tank. I am well out of my depth here, but perhaps the multitude of small pipes (or galleries in the case of honeycomb rads) coupled to the steep drop in temperature generates sufficient difference to create flow. Perhaps the tubes provide a barrier to the convection that would take place in an ordinary tank cooled system.

Here's a picture of a ST P55 I used to own & you can clearly see that the pipe from the radiator bottom tank runs uphill into the block, the head feeding hot water into the top tank.

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However, in the same album, is another P55 industrial that has a feed from the head that returns to the exhaust manifold!

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Dunno - but it was very clean & tidy - perhaps it was its first time out and needed development, as they say!

Scratching around amongst my P55 marine engines this afternoon, I came across a spare Stuart Turner pump, one of those eccentrically driven piston pumps nicely done in brass. It is free if stiff & its quirkly nature calls to me. I'll try that one & we'll see ;o))

Regards,

Kim Siddorn. Mechanical Engineers build weapons, Electronic engineers build radar, Civil Engineers build targets.

Reply to
Kim Siddorn

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