Found a company that will manufacture 'specials' in the way of suspension beams
The two beams we bought last week are standard, but they will make to order with
non-standard bracket/saddle positions etc.
Trailer body fittings:
Usually supplied through the trade, but they also have a Trade Counter at their
place in Walsall, happy to serve anyone with a Trade Order and money...
Helpful trailer/spares resellers:
located in Nottingham
Good site for dimensions and information:
Indespension have been largely overtaken by other companies who have been faster
to grasp the internet and set up decent sites.
Peter & Rita Forbes
You haven't seen Peter's current trailer, if he had built it during WW II it
would have been classed as a tank transporter, his new one will be for two
tanks if I know Peter :-))
Towsure is well out of his league :-))
It was built, not thrown together, and has served us admirably over the past 10
years, but we have a new one well under way now, just finalising the drawings so
that we have all the mod's that we wanted, done.
Max Gross Weight is 2600kg, but it weighs just over 500kg and the van is rated
only for 2000kg trailer all-up weight (4900kg GCW)
Lots of 'niggly' little things, like stowage for the two spare wheels, the
drawbar is 'just' too short to lay them behind the coupling out of the way.
We have kept the 20mm ply decking with ali chequerplate over the top, but will
do the support metalwork differently, with 75 X 50 cross beams recessed below
the 100 X 50 X 5mm perimeter frame.
More ropehooks, always useful...
Trying to work out someplace to put the two planks we use to roll the chargers
up onto the trailer with, and we also have four ali extruded channel pieces in
the workshop for ramps which we didn't use in the end.
A winch we have, never used it so probably won't bother with it on the new one,
although making provision might be worthwhile.
The biggest problem we have is finding an oven big enough to do the powder
Peter & Rita Forbes
Basically, we cannot buy what we need, that's why we built the first one.
We need something that will load anything from rail mobile chargers to a large
stationary engine or 3 large (contractor) bales of hay or a load of scaffolding.
It has to have a flat deck with reasonably low loading height, be able to take
high point loads and have all-round access.
Most we have had on the original is a JK4 Generating set, weight unknown but
probably 2-1/2 tons without radiator and manifolds. Martin will remember
removing that one...
It has been so useful on so many occasions, we'd be lost without it!
Peter & Rita Forbes
Nice trailer in Martin's pic.
Two spare wheels?
How about one on the trailer and one in the van for those long
journeys when you're fully laden?
Don't forget a jack. Small trolley jacks in a plastic case are now
quite cheap. You'll need a wheel brace as well.
I looked at chequer plate for my trailer. I didn't like the patterned
surface though. It makes shovelling and sweeping more difficult. I
tend to use mine for builders stone though which you probably don't.
Mine is a platform trailer with wheels under the deck, Iffor Williams
style. Very versatile but the deck is higher. Have you considered
removable sides. It adds to the versatility.
The obvious place for your loading planks or ramps is underneath the
trailer. It looks like you've more unused width than length but that
should give you about 6ft storage length.
Winches are a mixed blessing. They take up space and are rarely used.
When they are though they become invaluable. How about an anchor point
for a cheap wire rope puller? They're brilliant things and are very
versatile. ie thay can be taken off the trailer and used for other
Powder coating? How about hot dip galvanising. Much more robust and
Don't forget to made provision for locking it up. Your works location
may be secure but it will get left unatended on motorway services and
for overnight journeys. A lockable hitch cover doesn't work when it's
on a vehicle, they just unbolt the towball and take that as well.
If you can use wheels with larger holes, a good chain and padlock
While you're making it, MIG your post code onto the drawbar and
somewhere underneath before chasis treatment. A thief will see the
post code on the draw bar and grind it off. That leaves a nasty mark
for the police to look for but doesn't make the trailer yours. The
hidden post code then identifies the trailer to you both because you
know exactly where it is and what it says.
Signwriting also makes it distictive and advertises your business.
Much easier to spot at a distance as well.
Lock the spare wheel on as well of course.
I'm glad you use a light board. Again, versatility, it can be used
elsewhere. I don't know if your trailer is towed by more than one
vehicle. If it is, sprung stainless steel number plate mountings are
available. The No plate can be swapped in seconds. A cheaper way is to
use wing nuts. That does need everyones No plate to be drilled in the
same place though. The spring type doesn't need that.
Don't you need side reflectors as well as lights these days?
Put runs of reflective tape on the rear and sides of the trailer. It
makes it stand out especially at night. It may save you an accident
that you never know about.
We have two spares for the trailer and two for the van. A lot of our trips are
long-distance and at night, so we take extras just in case.
We have had two instances of blowing/puncturing two tyres on a trip in the past,
one in a car when we clipped a silencer on the motorway which fell underneath
the car in front and we didn't have time to avoid it, and the other was on a van
trip when we had a puncture followed a bit later by a totally unexplained blow
out on the A19.
Got all that in the van.
No, we have carried a load of paving stones in the past, and bagged sand and
gravel, but nothing loose.
We looked at wheels under the platform, but the wheel and tyre options are
pretty limited, and the deck height (and the towball height) starts to get a
problem for us.
We have 2.8metres of deck, but to keep the towball height correct, we cannot
raise the body high enough to get the planks underneath the body and over the
Plenty of attachment points/ropehooks, and we have a 3/4 ton Pul-Lift which is
invaluable, both out and in the workshop.
Looks awful after a few years :-))
We shot blast the frame then Zinc Spray it before powder coating.
The coupling has a built-in lock and we never ever leave it anywhere unattended.
It is inside a locked storage at the farm undercover. It is also a bit
distinctive and not easily sold, we photographed it and the insurers are happy
A decent sized bit of chain won't go through the holes on our wheels
unfortunately, but a good thought.
As above, I don't think it is as 'theiveable' as a standard Ifor Williams
trailer, certainly we have never had a serious attempt at theft over the years,
although before we had the farm storage we had it chained to a tree with a BIG
piece of stainless chain and a Chubb padlock.
Not much room on ours as there are no panels.
We will on the new one, the old one doesn't have storage on the trailer itself,
which is why we carry them in the van.
We don't, ours is part of the trailer but suspended on three rubber exhaust
Mixed feelings about lighting boards....
Not long enough, but I might fit some on the new one. There are side lights on
the mudguards which are visible from the side.
Cannot stand the stuff myself, prefer amber reflectors, but a good safety point.
Peter A Forbes
Prepair Ltd, Rushden, UK
I was thinking of storing them across the trailer underneath and
behind the axle. Don't know whether that's possible with your chassis
You could always use them as removable sides.
Works though. Don't tell Martin it looks terrible. He'll wipe it with
an oily rag and call it patina :-)
No sooner said....
Picked up a large hex head self-tapper and captive washer this morning, right in
the shoulder of the tread, so it's off to the major repairer to get fixed, takes
about a week.
Second spare comes into play...
Peter & Rita Forbes