Yes I like to get my engines into full working condition, and I work them,
but not always to "show" standard. It all depends on what they look like.
I've bought Petters with MS pins flopping about, like a sausage up North
Street, and seen Silver steel pins fail so will only use properly made
The Ogle damage is to the water jacket only so is not critical. However the
jacket was full of cement like scale and the CI has suffered sea-water
attack. Its going to need a whole circle cut out and a ring brazed, or
perhaps stitched in. The whole engine is such a challenge that it keeps
going backwards in the queue :-(
I was looking at the picture of the ''0GLE''
would I be correct in assuming that all or most of your engines,are
reconditioned as show pieces in working condition,and that this same
criteria would apply to most other collecters of old Stationary
You mentioned WELDING.as a large chunk of the side of the crankcase was
missing,and if I am right, it was badly cracked,[did this damage cross
any oil gallerys ]?...how did you repair it? did you weld in a patch
and weld the crack?
My reason for asking these questions is that before I retired I for 17
years overhauled and tested most sorts of engines in the Transport
In the very early days engines would come in for repair, cracked
perhaps the whole length of the side of the crankcase possibly
affecting oil galleries as well.Or maybe a thrown connecting rod
smashed a bit out of the side the size of a hand.
The CRACK.was stitched with 1/4 copper rod,process involved drilling
and tapping into the crack,screwing in a bit of the rod then drilling
1/2 into copper rod and 1/2 into crankcase,this process was continued
until the CRACK was STITCHED by one solid line of screwed in copper
rod,[sealant was used on the threads as each piece was screwed in],A
water pressure test was then applied to both water and oil gallerys,
and the copper stitching PEENED with a round nose hammer if any leaks
Where a piece of the case was missing,this was repaired using ANNEALED
1/8 COPPER plate moulded to the contour of the crankcase at the point
then drilled tapped and screwed with cork gasket.
As most of these engines were relatively larger ,this method although
time consuming apparently avoided the risk of distortion.
I would appreciate your comments,
All the best for now,and keep up the good work,