Yes I like to get my engines into full working condition, and I work them, but not always to "show" standard. It all depends on what they look like. I've bought Petters with MS pins flopping about, like a sausage up North Street, and seen Silver steel pins fail so will only use properly made replacements The Ogle damage is to the water jacket only so is not critical. However the jacket was full of cement like scale and the CI has suffered sea-water attack. Its going to need a whole circle cut out and a ring brazed, or perhaps stitched in. The whole engine is such a challenge that it keeps going backwards in the queue :-( ttfn Roland
I was looking at the picture of the ''0GLE'' crankcase, would I be correct in assuming that all or most of your engines,are reconditioned as show pieces in working condition,and that this same criteria would apply to most other collecters of old Stationary engines. You mentioned WELDING.as a large chunk of the side of the crankcase was missing,and if I am right, it was badly cracked,[did this damage cross any oil gallerys ]?...how did you repair it? did you weld in a patch and weld the crack? My reason for asking these questions is that before I retired I for 17 years overhauled and tested most sorts of engines in the Transport industry. In the very early days engines would come in for repair, cracked perhaps the whole length of the side of the crankcase possibly affecting oil galleries as well.Or maybe a thrown connecting rod smashed a bit out of the side the size of a hand. The CRACK.was stitched with 1/4 copper rod,process involved drilling and tapping into the crack,screwing in a bit of the rod then drilling
1/2 into copper rod and 1/2 into crankcase,this process was continued until the CRACK was STITCHED by one solid line of screwed in copper rod,[sealant was used on the threads as each piece was screwed in],A water pressure test was then applied to both water and oil gallerys, and the copper stitching PEENED with a round nose hammer if any leaks showed. Where a piece of the case was missing,this was repaired using ANNEALED
1/8 COPPER plate moulded to the contour of the crankcase at the point of damage, then drilled tapped and screwed with cork gasket. As most of these engines were relatively larger ,this method although time consuming apparently avoided the risk of distortion. I would appreciate your comments, All the best for now,and keep up the good work, John.