1. Home
  2. ⚙ Stationary Engines - UK
  3. Re: Metal Spinning

Re: Metal Spinning

Gentlemen,

Well today there was no screaming, with the use of my friends Harrison lathe I spun two flanged discs for my tank. I made a tool out of 1/2 in mild steel bar, I radiused the end then polished out the scratches to produce a smooth finish. Setting up was no problem, I set the lathe for 600 rpm and made sure that the tailstock running centre was pressed home tight into the second piece of wood. By resting the tool on the tool post I applied force to the copper disc and to be honest I did not find it to difficult, but then my 20+ stone may have something to do with it :-)). After a little while the edge started to pleat so I stopped and my friends son annealed the disc while I started on the other one. Then annealed disc was put back and the finishing passes were made and then with the aid if a parting off tool the excess was removed to leave a disc with a flange around its edge. Tommorrow I will role the tank tube.

Pictures in usual place of the set up.

Martin P

Camp> Gentlemen,

> Thanks for that, I am going to spin a flange onto a flat disc so > should not have much of a frisbee problem :-)) > > Martin P > > Andy D>> It was somewhere outside Barstow when "Camp>> >>> I am going to have to use a friends lathe as I don't have enough >>> stroke on my tailstock to hold one of the discs against the copper >>> sheet. >> >>> I have one little question for those of you who have done it, what >>> speed should I spin at ? >> >> That's up to you - what speed would you like the Death Frisbee to be >> spinning at when it launches at you ? 8-) >> >> I _hate_ spinning. I'd do aluminium or copper again, but never again >> for steel unless I had a proper spinning lathe and all the setup. >> Last time I had to do some I weaseled out and took it to the local >> spinnorama (in Newcastle) >> >> Woodworking lathes are good for spinning because they have nice >> variable gearboxes that shift speeds on the fly. If you're >> deep-drawing (sic) a large disc into a deep tube, then you may well >> want to speed things up in mid-pass. >> >> For copper you can go quite fast, but watch out for that work >> hardening sneaking up on you. Slow down if you have poor chucking, >> or a 3-jaw with whirling sticky-out bits. I'd expect to start around >> 500rpm in this size then go up to 1000rpm once I had the outer edge a >> bit under control and had some confidence in it (and me!). Finishing >> would be faster, about 1600rpm. >> >> If it's copper, then be scrupulous about the polish on the ends of >> your tooling. I'm told that this accelerates work hardening if you >> use a rough-faced tool (according to a guy who spun phosphor bronze >> minesweeping floats for the navy). >> >> There's a handy intro guide here: >>
formatting link
Reply to
Campingstoveman
Loading thread data ...

Very interesting, Martin, and thanks for taking the time to post the photos.

Jeni asks if you can make her a biscuit tin as well ;-).

Regards, Arthur G

spun two flanged discs for my tank.

out the scratches to produce a smooth

that the tailstock running centre was

be honest I did not find it to

annealed the disc while I started on

made and then with the aid if a parting

Reply to
Arthur Griffin & Jeni Stanton

It crossed my mind that plates would nlt be a problem :-))

Mart> Very interesting, Martin, and thanks for taking the time to post the > photos.

Reply to
Campingstoveman

Gentlemen,

Pics in usual place of completed tasnk minus fittings plus my home made rolls.

Martin P

Reply to
Campingstoveman

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.