46045 Rail Blue Bachman peak

I have got one of these from when they first released them ( about 8 -10 years old) been fine up to now, but its now suffering from growling and sqealling a lot. Simple answer I thought I'll take the body off and see what the problem is. I managed to get the body off, but to my surprise the entire working parks ( worms, motor etc) is covered by what appears to be a large metal block. The only free space is for the driving compartment at each end. I can't see a way to release the metal block to access the working parts.

Does anyone know how to remove the cast weight?

Thanks in advance,

Ashley

Reply to
APinn
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Yes, and I just wrote a nice long reply for you with all the details then my system crashed, I'm not going to write it all again now its bedtime, so just go look at Its best to start by undoing the two crosshead screws above each bogie pivot and dropping off the bogies. There are screws going up from underneath at the ends and others down from the top which you will find underneath the circuit board. Take it all to bits, clean regrease and rebuild. Keith

Make friends in the hobby. Visit Garratt photos for the big steam lovers.

Reply to
Keith Norgrove

Tip..... After removing the body....

Draw a plan and then unsolder the six wires (usually red and black) from the IC board, four wires from the pick-ups (2-each end) and two from the motor terminals.

Remove the central screw at the top of each bogie/gearbox, the screw which holds the gear-box to the block. Drop the gearbox and watch for the drive-shaft as you pull the gearbox/ bogie-frame forward and away from the chassis.

Remove the single flat-head screw from each end of the frame and then remove the four screws which hold the plastic base-plate to the metal/ballast block, the screws for these will be found under the IC board to which the wires are soldered....these screws are long as they go through the block and into the threaded tube-like supports. These supports are part of the plastic base-plate.....there are three different plastic base-plates so be careful if you're doing more than one at a time and they happen to be different.

When refitting the screws, remember that you're dealing with plastic as it's easy to strip the threads..... screw the plastic base-plate to the ballast/metal block, tighten the screws gently and evenly then firmly. Fit the drive-shaft to the gearbox end first, having threaded the pick-up and motor wires through the small holes in the block. Guide the opposite end of the drive-shaft into the slot in the brass flywheel and align the hole in the top of the gearbox with the hole in the block to refit but DO NOT tighten the gearbox fixing screws too tight.....screw down until there is the slightest vertical (up-down) movement of the gearbox in relation to the frame and that the bogie-frame ends will just touch the plastic base-plate in front of and behind.

When adjusting the wheels, make certain that the main wheels are connecting fully with the rails and that the pony-wheels are adjusted with more slack or you will end-up with wheel-slip.

E.&O.E. as it's past my bed-time too...!!

Colin Meredith

Reply to
Colin Meredith

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