Another question from a novice

Thanks for suggestions so far.

I've taken on board the suggestion that a freight set might me more fun for my 5 year old daughter. After looking around I see that Hornby manufacture some sets that are sold specifically through catalogue or chain stores, and the "Freightmaster" set from Toys R Us with the crane seems particularly appropriate as my daughter always liked playing with a similar wooden set when she was younger. I've also managed to get a "Track Pack C" from EBay for £16 and can pick up "Track Pack B" cheaply at the same time as the set itself. I'll keep my eyes open for any bargain packs D and E on Ebay, but they are something for the future.

I've noted from here and on various websites that the layout is best set up on a board (sundeala if possible), and as luck would have it,

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suggested a timber merchant who stocks it less than a mile from my house. Taking the roof off my car and cutting the board down to 6x4' I've just managed to get it home.

As her birthday is fast approaching, rather than presenting her the box and then telling her she'll have to wait some time to use it, I want to get it all set up over the coming weekend. I'll mount the board on a

2x1" frame, every 2' which should be straightforward enough, but now, on to my questions:

1) What's the best way to fix the trakmat to the board? Wallpaper paste, dabs of glue, simply the tacks through the rails and then trakmat into the board?

2) Electrical connection: Will one controller safely power the entire Hornby trakmat layout, or do things get more complicated when there are points involved and multiple tracks? I know that multiple controllers and isolation is required to run multiple trains simultaneously, but will the points create any isolated segments of track or short circuits if I just want to run a single train on the whole trakmat layout?

Thanks in advance.

Reply to
David Mahon
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David,

For something likr Sundeala, supports on 12" centres are recommended to avoid sagging - 24" centres is pushing your luck a bit :-) That'll be a lot more half joints to make :-)

Jim.

Reply to
Jim Guthrie

Hi David

If you construct a basic circular system albeit oval or enen conveluted, with one or more points to sidings off of it then - if the points face the same way off the oval then it does not matter where you feed. The only time a dead spot is generated is between the poits IF both are open. If however the points face in opposite directions then the feed should be at any point between the two turnouts. There is never any danger of short circuits In any case modern controllers can handle this without self damage.

If you go on to DCC then you will need a PhD in button pushing!

Peter A Montarlot

Reply to
peter abraham

Hi David,

Foe my two penneth I would suggest going DCC in the beginning. Whilst you have little stock the cost of decoders is not prohibitive, a decent starter DCC set with transformer will cost little more than a good quality Dual DC controller. The wiring for DCC is simple 2 wire (although a few additional feeds will ensure better electrical contacts) without the switching and block sectioning required with DC layouts.

A cheaper option, one of the Bachmann DCC starter set has two small locos already chipped and a few goods wagons, and whilst not the greatest controller with the greatest functions as it is included in the set, it is a good way to start in DCC. And if you like it you can upgrade later. Failing that, there are some great starter controllers on ebay at reasonable prices.

Reply to
Eddie Bray

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