Gap Between Baseboards

What is an acceptable gap to bridge with oo track. I have been making boards of various size to go in my loft and now as I near completion there are some gaps where the some of the boards aren't dead square. I can rectify this by gluing strips of thin wood to the boards where the gaps are large ( up to about 7mm ) in one instance, but at what point should I not bother to fill any gap. Fitting a 6mm strip of wood is one thing, 2mm is something more tricky unless I build up with layers on veneer. Is it just a question of what is acceptable to the eye, at what point does an unsupported gap hinder the running of trains?

Thanks

Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Rayner
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If the gap is on straight track, a 12mm wheel could possibly jump a 6mm gap, but the effect would be horrific! _One_ mm would be as big as you could expect reasonable performance across and even that would make a fair clatter!

If your construction skills are not so good then I would suggest you cut the track back 50mm from each edge and cut a 100mm length of joiner track to fit across the baseboard join. If that still doesn't get you a neat track then shell out for Fleischmann's extendable track section which from memory will extend from 80 to 120mm length.

For the actual gap between baseboards you could try a piece of foam rubber mounted on one baseboard end. That would compress to the size of the gap and hide the hole. You could even scenic across the top surface of it.

For those of us with limited carpentry skills, we learn to find ways of construction so that our errors subtract rather than add! :-)

Regards, Greg.P.

Reply to
Gregory Procter

Greg, I think that what Kevin was asking was not what would be an allowable gap in the actual rails, but what would be an allowable gap in the baseboard that unsupported rails could cross without an obvious sag. If this was the case, assuming the use of Flexitrack or similar, anything up to 15mm or so would in my opinion be o.k. Of course such a gap wont look good, but can be covered by a piece of thin cardboard. Regards, Bill.

Fleischmann's

Reply to
William Pearce

Pack the gaps and keep it all level ....

Colin.

Reply to
Colin Meredith

If that's the case, then a 200mm (8") length of steel railed code 100 track will self support, provided you use packing under the end sleepers rather than relying on the fishplates. =8^O

Reply to
Gregory Procter

It sounds as though as long as I keep the gap to reasonable minimum I wont have any problems. I intend to lay the track across the joins then solder the rails to strips of circuit board material then cut the rails, so I can remove the layout if I move. At the moment I only have one of the boards with what I would call a large gap which tapers from 7mm to nothing. I can clamp a piece of wood and glue it to the side then plane it down. I like the idea of packing foam in the gap before bolting the boards together to close any small gaps completely.

Kevin

Reply to
Kevin Rayner

I used silica sealant on my layout between baseboards so it would expand/contract with changes in temperature ... having said that, it's not designed to be dismountable.

Reply to
Chris Wilson

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