Varnish or clear casting resin. Put stream like items down first - stones,
plants which come through the surface, paint the bottom. Then add the
If using the varnish method, don't be tempted to do more than the thinnest
layer at a time, or you'll be waiting months for it to dry (been there, done
that :-) ).
NC - Webmaster for http://www.2mm.org.uk /
Replies to newsgroup postings to the newsgroup please.
On Sun, 18 Jul 2004 15:23:41 +0100, Keith Norgrove
Two or three wheel? Most recumbent tandems are three-wheel (e.g. the
Trice X2 or Greenspeed) but there are some Hase Pino two-wheels around
where the captain sits in the rear position inna wedgie stylee and the
stoker reclines in comfort on the front. It's just occurred to me
that this is a bit like the pilot & observer positions on a Tiger Moth
- perhaps they should be wearing Biggles type flying helmets :-)
May contain traces of irony. Contents liable to settle after posting.
On Sun, 18 Jul 2004 17:37:18 +0100, "Just zis Guy, you know?"
I'm pretty certain it was two, I think I would have noticed if it had
a pair of wheels at the front.
Didn't pick up on that much detail as I was driving and it passed me
in the opposite direction.
Make friends in the hobby.
Garratt photos for the big steam lovers.
Actually, the EZ water has been discontinued. Among other reasons, the
heat necessary to make it flow was not compatible with foamboard based
WS now has a new set of products called "Realistic Water". There's a clear
material for the water itself, and a white material to do foamy water.
I've not used them yet myself, but the promo photos look pretty good. The
old stuff (EZ Water) had a very yellow tint to it.
Both are still available here in the US, and regularly used. A club
member tried the "Realistic Water" and came to the conclusion that it
shrunk when it set - not very good!
We've used the EZ-Water on Foam quite successfully. You need to line
the foam with something (spackle in my case), but you'll need to do
that with any water solution anyway. Bubbles not a big problem if
your lining is sealed properly. Yes some tiny bubbles might appear on
the surface, but these can be easily annealed out with a heat gun (or
a gas soldering iron with a "torch" end).
After saying all that, yes, heat and models have to be used with care.
As well as foam and plastic, wood will singe - one of our modules has
a blacked out boat pier - some redneck fishing+beer incident I reckon!
I don't think there's a perfect solution for water yet. Another
popular solution over here is "EnviroTex". It is a 24-hr 2-part Epoxy
intended for finishing table tops, etc. So the effect is like that of
using a gazillion layers of varnish, but quicker and easier to apply.
I poured a test piece and it looked good, a few mm thick but there's a
notable miniscus. I'm intending to use it for a canal.
Winwaed Software Technology
Hi everyone, I've been a lurker on here for a while. I have a large range of N
scale canal boats for sale suitable for periods from 1920's to the present day
feel free to email me or visit my website at www.ammodels.4t.com for more
information or details of other models.
I hope I have not upset anyone with this post it just seemed like the right
time to make myself known.
On 21 Jul 2004 18:41:35 GMT, firstname.lastname@example.org (Exiledbaggie)
Thanks for the suggestion. I have one of the Langley narrow boats (I'm
an N scale modeller) under construction. Kit building has been very
slow over the past 18 months, so it has been sitting in the paint shop
for ages! Touched up the decals lastnight, and it should be ready
for the tarpaulin to be fitted.
This is only a 2ft NTrak module, so there's only 2ft length of canal -
one narrow boat will be plenty for me!
Winwaed Software Technology
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