Hornby Class 50 advice, please

Santa brought me a brand new 50 last year but as I didn't have any track at the time due to children, house improvements etc etc I have been unable to
run it until now. I took it out of the box last night and placed it on the track. It works very poorly indeed! I have 2 old H&M controllers. On one of them the loco moves very jerkily and exhibits odd behaviour with its lights. When moving forwards the white lights are on at the front and the red at the back but, the red lights are flickering at the front and the white are flickering at the back! So all the lights at each end are operating at the same, only the 'wrong' set are very flickery and irregular, just like the motion!
If I use it on the other controller it will move about 6 inches in the same manner as above and then stop completely and I think it trips out the controller.
After all this time (almost a year) I doubt the vendor will be interested so if anyone can offer any advice I would greatly appreciate it.
ROB
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"Robert Flint" wrote

at
Does this loco have traction tyres? If so it is one of the first batch and there was a problem with the printed circuit board on some of the locos, but I understood that only affected use with DCC systems.
The flickering lights is sometimes a problem caused by the capacitors included in the circuitry to eliminate TV interference.
My suggestion would be to phone Hornby on 01843-233500 and ask for Help Desk, and talk the problem through with them. Alternatively return the model to the shop it was bought from and get them to sort it for you., although after twelve months I suspect they will not have any obligation to swap it, but if they value your trade they should be willing to help.
John.
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to
the
and
but
to
'Phoned Hornby on the number you suggested and their only suggestion was either dirty track or dirty wheels. I know the track is clean (my knuckles can testify to it!) and I will check the wheels tonight, though I would be surprised if they were dirty as it is effectively a new (albeit one year old) model that has never been run.
The chap on the helpline did say if I shipped it back to them they would investigate for me. He also said that of all the models they make the 50 is by far the most susceptible to dirty track/wheels and that many exhibit the behaviour I have described. I must admit, it is the first I have heard of that, but the offer of a service was generous and I may take them up on it if I cannot get to the root of the problem myself.
ROB
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Robert Flint wrote:-

It's a bit like those record dealers whose stock response to any complaint is: "Have you tried cleaning it?". "Well no actually, I thought that big patch of gunk was always meant to be there".
(kim)
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I should put my hands up here as the person who returned not one but two copies of 'Loaded' by the Velvet Underground, thinking there was some problem with the disc... Brian
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"Robert Flint" wrote

is
the
I'm gobsmacked! I've not heard of anyone having problems with dirty wheels or track with the Class 50, but the traction tyres fitted to the early models do not help with current collection, and I'm glad to see that Hornby responded to criticism by eliminating them on subsequent production batches.
Certainly mine (which is from the second run of 50035) runs much better than the original lot, and I put that down to the lack of traction tyres.
If you take Hornby up on their offer to service the loco, and I have to say I'd be tempted to suggest they do, then stress when you send it back to them that you want the circuit board replacing with the latest version.
John.
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On Thu, 25 Nov 2004 16:58:18 -0000, "John Turner"

And ask them to swop the tyred wheelsets withstandard ones as well!
Failing that you can buy a spare gear tower at a reasonable price and swop the wheels out. Keith

Make friends in the hobby. Visit <http://www.grovenor.dsl.pipex.com/ Garratt photos for the big steam lovers.
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wheels
Hornby
batches.
than
say
them
I had a poke about with two flying leads from the controller and there do seem to be some wiring issues. There seem to be no pickups working on one bogie at all, and on the other only the centre wheel set seems to have a reliable connection. I know there are traction tyres on diagonally opposite wheels but I was in contact with the backs of the wheels.
I have read the data sheet which relates to removing the body but if anyone can offer any advice as to what I should look for when I am inside I would be grateful. I may still just return it to Hornby , though, I haven't yet decided!
ROB
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Though I've not bought an entire Class 50, I've used the gubbins from them to re-motor four other locos. One possible source of trouble that I've found is the wiring connection to the metal strip at the back of the bogie side-frame. This is simply pushed through a hole, bent over, and held in place with a plastic cover. In all cases, I've replaced it with a more substantial lead, soldered in place, which seems to sort out the problem. I do find the wire used for a lot of the motor- pick-up connections in more recent stock somewhat insubstantial, and usually replace it with something a bit meatier. Brian
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On Fri, 26 Nov 2004 10:59:49 -0000, "BH Williams"

The wires are adequate for the currents involved but these connections made with plastic push ons are easy to dislodge and will inevitably become unreliable, solder them, both to the bogie pick up strips and to the pcb and the problems will be gone. Keith
Make friends in the hobby. Visit <http://www.grovenor.dsl.pipex.com/ Garratt photos for the big steam lovers.
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I would try it on a different setup first before ringing Hornby, have you got access to newer controllers? I have 2 first batch 50s and they run fine with my gaugemaster, John is right about the printed circuit board and dcc, but should work fine with dc.

at
of
lights.
the
same
so
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VIP wrote:-

It sounds like a loose connection inside the locomotive to me?
(kim)
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
This is most likelt your problem! Have you tried other modern locos? Have you got is set to pulse mode, half wave or High resistance or similar options ... none of these will probably be appreciated by the on-boarf circuitry which is carefully trying to give you 'steady' lights in either direction at low voltage, and then smooth loco drive above that.
Its most unlikely that the loco is at fault (even with a traction tyre or two.. Roco still fit them) Try the loco on someone elese layout.
Try (if nothing else available) with a fresh 9v battery held accross a set of wheels (same axle) - the motor should run.
Phil
--
Phil Spiegelhalter: snipped-for-privacy@fillin.co.uk
==== Technical Training for Broadcasters =====
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wrote:

All my other locos (including modern ones such as Heljan 47 and Hymek, Bachman 24,25 Austerity, Turbostar etc and Hornby BofB and MN work perfectly.
ROB
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If you have had no traffic on your tracks for more then one year, then clean your tracks first.
Pepe

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The track has been very thoroughly cleaned and all my other locos are OK.
ROB
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so
I have both a first batch 50 and an old H&M controller. The 50 works just fine on the H&M controller and on my Gaugemaster. The 50 should be the smoothest loco you have - only the Heljan models come close.
Now the lights - My 50 displays similar behaviour when it travels over dirty track and sometimes over insulfrog pointwork. I get the impression that when power feed is momentarily lost, the circuitboard doesn't know which lights to illuminate but the capacitors are still providing the juice. The effect is that when running forwards, the red lights on the leading cab flicker. Does anyone else see this or do I have a faulty machine? On good clean track, I don't see the problem.
It sounds to me like the pickups are faulty or there is a loose wire inside. If I were you, I'd try it on someone else's layout - or at the shop you bought it from then contact Hornby.
Adrian
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"Adrian" wrote

inside.
It would certainly make sense to get it tested elsewhere and the shop which you bought it from would be a good place to start.
Whatever is causing your present problems, that circuit board most definitely wants changing - you may want to go DCC in the future and it will not then work reliably if it's one of the early faulty examples.
John.
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will
It's about time I did mine. I'm just a bit bothered that Hornby want the old one back first - what happens if it gets lost in the post or by Hornby? Also, why should I end up with a dead loco while I wait for the replacement? I Understand that Heljan had a quite different policy on body swaps a while back...
Adrian
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"Adrian" wrote

old
replacement?
while
Ring the Help Line at Hornby before return the circuit board, just to check that they have replacements in stock. You should have the replacement within 48 hours.
John.
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