Hornby Zero 1 help

I have just bought a job lot of old railway stuff from an auction which includes a Zero 1 controller and 4 decoders, can anyone give me a brief description of how to use the damn thing also how to work out how to read the loco cumbers from the chips

I understand binary and the ABCD principle but how does this reflect to the

6 terminals on the decoders ?

When I apply power to one of the locos the motor just creeps along so I dont know how to choose the loco and drive it?

TVM

Reply to
toad
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On 16/04/2005 18:39, toad wrote,

The Zero 1 could only control a maximum of 16 locos, so can you just try each number in turn until you find the one that drives each loco? If I remember right, you hit the "loco" key, then the loco number, then the forward or reverse key, and you should have control.

But.... if the controller isn't controlling a particular loco - it shouldn't creep along. Have you wired the decoder correctly? If you are totally stumped, there are adverts in early 80s Railway Modellers that might give some clues, so I could dig them out.

I'm now going to sit back and let someone else raise the subject of DCC....

Reply to
Paul Boyd

Thanks Paul, thank you for your reply.

I am getting a bit further and seem to have control of the preconfigured loco.

Interestinlgy the loco at stop creeps forward, but when reversed still creeps forward then about 1/4 power halts as the motor oscillates in both directions, then reverses up to 3/4 the speed of forward!

Anyway I was just checking the thing works before Ebaying it ;-) along with the decoders.

The controller doesnt seem to change channel very easilly to what were obviously the heavilly used loco numbers but I have heard the keypads were built from typically low quality copmonents.

I have recently restarted fooling around with my old collection and with the quality of todays RTR marcket suddenly find myself with 30 locos, suddenly I find I may have costed myself out of DCC !

Reply to
toad

Faulty module - (dud SCR usually or the clock has drifted)

One of those poor membrane type setups ala TV remote, the conductive "blob" on the membrane self destructs on the keyboard PCB in a grinding effect. MERG had/has a replacement kit.

TW

Reply to
TW10

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