Bastards, about one in four will not move the point whatever you do with it.
Test as much as you like beforehand, drill as carefully as you want, and
still the little sods sit there smugly going "bzz" and not moving at all.
I use Gaugemaster SEEP motors. They are also fiddly to install and adjust.
Once their position is fixed, it's possible to adjust the throw by
carefully bending the actuating rod.
A Capacitor Dischage Unit (Gaugemaster £11 from Hatton's, or make your
own) delivers a strong momentary burst of DC current, which gets rid of
the AC buzzing. Even so, with more than two point motors wired in parallel
it usually needs an extra push on the (on)-off-(on) switch to get them all
to change completely.
The disadvantage with SEEP motors is you have to solder your own leads to
the PCB. I find drilling a small hole through the solder tag and slipping
the wire through the hole before soldering makes for a better connection.
I have never had any problems with Peco point motors, even using the
extended pin version and mounting then below the base board.
How are you driving the motors, is there enough current available from
whatever you are driving then from, or is the wiring run way too long,
or are you using a gauge of wire that is too thin?
Same here, all mounted below baseboard but no pin, no microswitch either.
To check if its microswitch, can you swap a working with non working and see
if working stops and non working does. But would agree more likely current.
Seem to remember small Hornby struggled but guagemaster threw easily.
I use a latching relay from Maplin instead of a microswitch on Peco point
motors. They are pretty cheap, work extremely well using the feeds from
the passing contact switch and provide Double Pole Double Throw. This is
said all that, I prefer Seep motors with the integrated switch but
have had to use some Peco because of space problems (I model in N and only
PECO fit side by side under a scissors crossing. Even with Seep I use the
latching relays if I need more than one switched pole.
I am surprised you have to give an extra push for more than two motors with
a CDU. I have (for example) a scissors crossing that has two point motors
and two latching relays all fired off by one passing contact switch via a
Guagemaster CDU. Works fine. I suppose being N gauge makes the motor
travel a bit shorter, but I wouldn't have thought it would make that much
difference. There are a number of other instances on the layout where one
passing contact switch fires off multiple motors and relays.
Do they go PSshhhhh thump like the ones on London Transport used to
do? It's a sound I remember from holidays with relatives in earshot
of the District Line ,you could tell when the train was a Richmond one
when you heard the sound. Either the Double glazing now fitted to the
same house is good or the successors to London Transport have replaced
the pneumatic system at that and probably other locations.
I've used Peco point motors since the days before they introduced
the plastic framed version.
(haven't bought any in the last decade)
I've never had a dud one other than one with a dead coil in a batch
of second-hand ones and that was obviously cooked.
Mounting them separately from the turnout requires very careful
precision alignment, angle, vertical and horizontal.
The mounting bases (PL9?) can bind if they are screwed too tightly.
Generally I mount mine directly to the turnout, with a piece of card
under the turnout to cover the big hole. The card also makes it
possible to lift them again later after ballasting.
I even have point motors throwing two of Peco's cheap switches
(frog and turnout sequencing), one on one end of a double slip!
I also have a few H&M point motors (with switches added).
These move anything - sometimes I think the baseboard jumps and
the points stay in their original position. ;-)