Spray Painting

The stuff with the Tamiya logo on it at the local model shop. I find its much better than paper masking tape, though I do use paper masking tape for less precise stuff, and for joining bits of paper mask (ie only use tape at edges of paper).

- Nigel

Hi Graham

If you have a good art materials shop near you, try asking for "FRISK" masking sheet. It's used by air-brush illustrators and artists and is low tack and residue free. It's not cheap but a little goes a long way.

Jasper

I'd also recommend the 'Tamiya' masking tape. I normally lay it on a sheet of plastikard first and cut a strip off using a brand new scalpel blade and a steel rule. This has several advantages - you get a much cleaner straight edge than the machined one, the action of sticking and removing it from the plastikard removes a little of the 'tack', it's more economical because you get more runs from a single strip and finally because the piece you're using is much narrower it's easier to accurately position it on the model.

Once I've masked just the edges like this, I fill in with either Maskol or one of those paper tapes - draughtsman's tape I think it's called.

Stuart

I have found it so interesting to see that there are a variety of different ways that masking can be achieved. Many thanks for everyone's suggestions and I shall look into these further.

Many Thanks Graham Kendall

I have a 2"x25' roll of stretchable, very flexible plastic masking tape put out by Testors under the name Modelmaster Parafilm M. It's excellent for masking on complex curved surfaces, such as on model aircraft. It's actually a medical product, and is no longer distributed by Testors but alternative sources and products are available.

See:

Can recommend either Tamiya masking tape or 'Eurostar' tape which I got from Shawplan with my last order or bits n pieces. The latter is a red plastic tape which is quite flexible and you get a decent amount of tape on the roll.

I have tried using frisket film. I personally didn't get on with it, thats not to say you won't. I found it didn't have enough tack to stick to the model properly and was easily dislodgde, and being transparent I was having trouble seeing it once it was on! Probably says more about my eyes than anything...

Go to a good DIY shop, and buy the low tack masking tape that professional painters use. It's blue or green, and much cheaper than the specially packaged stuff you buy in a model shop. One roll will last you a long, long time.

You will also need a piece of plate glass about 8x12". this has two uses:

a) to cut the tape to narrower widths and special shapes as needed. Just press down the tape, and cut. Use a fresh blade.

b) to reduce the tack even further: after you lift the tape from the glass, it will have less tack.

When taping, make sure that you've pressed the edges of the tape down. Remove it as soon as the paint is touch dry and won't take finger prints, before it hardens completely. Paint to be masked over must be hard, not just dry, so wait at least 24 hours before masking it.

HTH&HF