I build pretty well but my finishing is lacking some. I have decided to
start painting, any of you guys have any tips or good web sights to help
out. I know nothing about masking and painting good graphics, any help would
be appreciated.
Thanks,
Brad
Cut your graphics masks out of frisket paper (light adhesive backed paper).
Use low-tack masking tape (usually blue). Lay down light colors first then
darker ones over that.
--
Paul McIntosh
On 10/11/2004 7:28 PM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these
great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge:
I use latex paint for painting my planes. After the latex has cured (7
- 10 days average ) I then clear coat them with 2 coats of a water base
polyurethane for fuel proofing. The nice things about latex are: NO
FUMES, soap and water clean up and if you don't like it (or mess up ) it
can be removed with a wet cloth (usually UP TO 12 hours ).
For masking I use the blue 3M masking tape. When you get the tape look
on the side of the plastic wrapper for the adhesive level - it goes from
1 - 5 dots. My experience has shown that 2 dot adhesive provide the
best results. The 2 dot adheres well, but doesn't lift the paint
underneath when removing. The 2 dot LOOKS like a paper tape, while the
3 dot and higher has a textured appearance.
For graphics you can use frisket paper (most artist supply stores ) or
have them cut from vinyl. Another option would be to pick up some decal
paper in both clear and white background and print them on your inkjet
printer. I normally print my graphics (the detailed ones anyway) on
decal paper and then clear coat them for fuel protection.
Using latex has my interest, and that is good info about the dots for
adhesive, I did not know about the dots. How do you apply your latex paint,
and have you ever used a airbrush. I currently do not have a airbrush but
thinking of picking one up soon (Santa, I been good this year). I am
currently trying different glassing techniques, and painting with lustercote
and store bought sprays. My Bingo kit has turned into an experimental
process in prep for a much beloved Top Flite P-39. I glassed the fin and
fuse and covered the open sections like the stab. I plan to paint over the
glass and the covering. I have tried 3 different glassing techniques so far
with the most success being an Epoxy mixed with denatured alcohol and micro
balloons. However I think it was you that offered the Polyurethane technique
and it did pretty well and saved a ton of money. You could glass an entire
plane this way pretty cheap. It lacks the ability to fill the cloth as well
but results were satisfactory. Anyway, I am rambling on but thanks for the
information from all three guys here.
Brad
On 10/12/2004 9:58 AM Ted shuffled out of his cave and grunted these
great (and sometimes not so great) words of knowledge:
How do you apply your latex paint,
I use an HVLP electric paint sprayer I bought on EBay for about $90 for
large areas - the base color on the fuselage and wings. Then I use an
airbrush for the detail/small areas. I have a "Husky" brand air
compressor I use for the airbrush. I found that the small compressor
cost about the same as the "dedicated" airbrush compressor, but had more
uses. In either case you should start your spraying at 25 psi and go up
to 30 psi if it isn't spraying properly. If it still isn't spraying
right, go back to 25 psi and thin the paint some more. You do not need
(and really shouldn't use ) over 30 psi for spraying latex.
Practice spraying on some glass first to get the feel of it and
adjustments of the spray units.
I am
The epoxy method works well, however, I find it heavier overall and the
sanding more difficult than with the polyurethane method.
However I think it was you that offered the Polyurethane technique
When using the polyurethane method to apply the fiberglass, after the
fiberglass cloth is stuck down (the initial coat ), you need to apply 1
or 2 coats of polyurethane mixed with micro balloons to fill the weave
of the fiberglass. The way I do it is:
1. 1 coat of sealer to seal the wood. Wet sand with 400 when dry.
2. Lay the fiberglass cloth on the area to be glassed and apply 1 coat
of UNTHINNED polyurethane, working from the center toward the edges, to
adhere the fiberglass. Use a FOAM brush. DO NOT SAND at this time.
3. When that is dry, I apply 1 or 2 coats of polyurethane mixed with
micro balloons to fill the weave. Again, I use a foam brush. When dry,
wet sand with 400.
4. Apply 1 coat of thinned polyurethane.
5. apply 1 THIN coat of a dark color sandable primer and block sand to
show up any low/high spots.
6. Use light weight filler on the low spots.
7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until satisfied, then apply 1 LIGHT coat of
primer. I use a white primer for this as light colors will cover the
white easily with a minimum of coats.
Steps 4 - 7 I spray the poly and primer coats.
I get a finish that is as smooth as glass doing it like this.
Anyway, I am rambling on but thanks for the
Micro balloons is a filler. Looks like a powder. I bought some from SIG
back in the 70s ans still have it. I mixed it with polyester resin or
Ambroid.
Good stuff.
mk
Tiny little glass beads that can be mixed with glue (or dope)
to make a filler:
formatting link
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Microballoons are a lightweight free-flowing white powder consisting
of microscopic, hollow, glass ball clusters. Microballoons are a
specially processed silica glass, classified to insure uniform
particle size and product performance and is hydrophopic (does not
readily adsorb moisture). It disperses extremely well when mixed with
various resins or plaster. Microballoons do not absorb resin and
therefore provide maximum filler function. Cured systems are more
water resistant and have a higher temperature resistance in addition
to being more thermal and electrical resistive.
In addition, microballoons reduce the weight of the finished the
product and offers improved workability (nailing, sawing, drilling,
etc.) further reducing costs. It has been used extensively in molded
vanities, doors, columns, lighting fixtures, picture frames, etc. It
is more more easily sanded than fiberglass flock, so it can be used in
polyester systems where extremely high-strength is not required. It
can be used in sandable pastes to repair imperfections in wood and
fiberglass boats, cars or other parts. Many engineering students at
the university level have used microballoons to increase buoyancy and
as a lightweight and inexpensive filler in cement canoe projects.
I actually found a place about 3 miles up the road from me that will cut out
just about any graphic you can think of. And they have very reasonable
prices as well.
Brad
I've been using Orocal about 3 mil and love the stuff. I have a CT2
PCut plotter so I can cut both large and small. I wanted a 36" bu
another thousand buck I thought otherwise. Been doing some graphics t
add to my foamies and shoud have some pic's in a day or so
--
starca
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