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I suspect their opinion was that you should wait more than a couple hours before whining that nobody was sitting around waiting for the chance to answer a question for you.
Yep. Any doggoned fool would.
I suspect if you had waited more than a couples hours and given folks a chance to read your post... Most of the guys who really know their stuff in here have day jobs, and spent a lot of years working to learn what they know. I bet a lot of them of only even check the group once a day, and some only every couple days.
P.S. Technically is Mr An Idiot. As in, I. R. An Idiot. Didn't want to come right out and bust your chops over the name thing since its not obvious to some folks, and you did call me Mister first.
Mr. Idiot: I try to call even a S.O.B."Mr S.O.B." as that monicker tends to make the real S.O.B.s feel better about themselves since they seem to need it.
I always get a grin from folks who state the obvious as if they think their idea only occured to them and no one else.
This group has an inordinate percentage of extremely knowledgeable folks and I speculated that many would know of this spot welder. If I expected a reply that didn't fit with your particular timetable regarding the appropriate time to wait for a reply before asking again, I really apologize. Perhaps, deep-breathing exercises and Yoga would be of great benefit to you. Masturbation, even. If that is still possible for you.
I can't claim to be a master with it, but I use my mine occasionally. I have never had any training on one, but I may be able to answer basic questions. Miller has a booklet on spot welding that has some useful information on the basics:
Hi j/b, The current varies depending on the length of the tongs. I have the 12" tongs so it looks like 5800 Amps (I have the LMSW-
52). I use mine for steel sheetmetal, usually 16 - 22 guage. I do a fair amount of sheetmetal fabrication for hobby stuff and the spotwelder lets me build pretty professional looking stuff. Mostly I am building enclosures for electronics. I have used similar spotwelders on autobody sheetmetal in the distant past. I bought this one used off Craigs List, I kind of wish it was the smaller machine because it is easy to blow holes in the work with this one.
A good mechanical fitup, clean metal and not too much pressure on the tongs gives decent results with the shortest pulse I can get with the mechanical switch. Clean tips are also important. Too much tong pressure or dirty tongs result in blowing a hole in the work. The smaller machines I have used are easier since they actually take 1 or 2 seconds to reach welding temperature (Orange to yellow hot on the surface).
I want to try spotwelding stainless, but have not gotten to that yet.
Stainless steel spotwelds fine but it really likes to spit at you so wear safety glasses.
One of my favorite clever ideas with my Miller spotwelder was how to stud weld with it. Buy an extra set of tips. Cut one down so it is about 3/8" across the flat. Take the other an drill through the middle with a 3/16" bit. Take some short fillister head 8-32 screws and grind the head so it is half as thick. You want fillister head because they have a larger diameter head, but you can also use round-head screws. Drop the screw into the hole in the lower tip and place a piece of sheet metal over it. Apply spot welding current and presto you have a perfect little welded stud. Nice for making small light fixtures and anywhere where you don't want visible fasteners.
Thanks for the interesting reply. The beast that I have does not have tongs. It has an ordinary ground clamp and an electrode holder with a 3/8" copper slug-type tip that is to be pressed against the top sheet and then, the pushbutton fires a monster contactor (vacuum?) and sparks fly for x mlliseconds. What fun!