Sticking paper to polystyrene

The message from "John Rampling" contains these words:

[Assuming you mean Plasticard - if you mean expanded polystyrene (tiles) don't use this method]

I use "Plastic Weld" (bought from Eileen's Emporium, other suppliers are available). The method is to place the paper (usually brick paper) on top of the polystyrene, and then apply Plastic Weld liberally over the paper. The Weld soaks through the paper and a good bond is usually obtained. Work in a *well-ventilated* place - I work outdoors whenever possible when using Plastic Weld.

[Plastic Weld should *never* be brought into contact with expanded polystyrene - the polystyrene vanishes!! ]

I had the same problem and bought a large pot of paper adhesive paste in an office supplies store in Carcassone and it works just fine. (The trip might be a little expensive though)

Copydex, but make sure its thick paper as it yellows with age.

Where possible, I would "key" [1] the plastic surface first, too, so that the glue isn't trying to stick to a smooth surface.

[1] That is, roughen the surface by gently marking with a knife, of rubbing with very coarse sandpaper.

PhilD

2" double sided carpet tape.

2" double sided carpet tape.

A very thin coat of this sprayable adhesive.... which behaves as a 'contact' adhesive, sticking to plastic and paper.

Good call Stuart. In fact the best results I've had so far have been with double-sided Sellotape (a bit finer than carpet tape).

Experiments continue. Thank you everyone for your input.

John

Doesn't need to be Plastic Weld, Slaters MEK-PAK or Humbrol Liquid Poly will do the job just as well.

Why don't you try some sticky-back plastic and ordinary household bleach.............

The message from "John Shelley" contains these words:

True, but the same cautions apply - especially about the expanded polystyrene. I lost a sizable chunk of almost finished scenery when I knocked a bottle of Weld over: the stuff percolated down through the plaster and dissolved the foam underneath...

"John Rampling" wrote in news:SGgNg.22865$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe5-win.ntli.net:

UHU, also Modelzone sell a version of "Contacta" (?spelling) in a small glass pot with a brush in the lid, the formulation appears very similar, both work - usual disclaimer test first on an out of the way, piece just in case.

What? Destroy expanded polystyrene?

Yes, those bottles are too easy to knock over! It didn't damage my cutting mat, but it did remove some of the lettering.

I always attach them to a block of wood with a rubber band to prevent them being knocked over, especially when SWMBO is out and I'm working on the dining room table!

MBQ

The message from " snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com" contains these words:

I have a block of wood with a hole the size of a Weld bottle cut in it. Works a treat. However I won't use Weld indoors - as a lapsed smoker I remember the effect it could have (my cough muscle never had so much exercise!).

Soaking solvent cement (such the Plastic Weld mentioned by David Jackson) works fine. If you are joining card and plastic, spread a thinned plastic cement on the side of the paper to be glued, let it soak in and dry, and then glue with solvent cement. This stiffens the card, and may cause trouble with curved surfaces. You can make a thin plastic cement by dissolving leftover plastic bits in half a bottle of liquid cement.

The other glues mentioned will work more or less well, depending on how much mould release agent is left on the polystyrene. You should _always_ wash off the parts of a polystyrene kit in dishwashing detergent. That mould release agent interferes with paint, too.

HTH

Polystrene as in airfix type kits, or expanded polystyrene as in foam?