Got the grandson a new BMX bike for Christmas , and he wants stunt pegs on
the back . I've got some SS tubing that will make some very nice pegs , but
I need to attach a stepped washer to one end - the washer will go under the
axle nuts to attach the pegs . I don't have any SS wire for the MIG , so it
looks like I'll need to use the OA rig to attach 'em . I've got a couple of
varieties of brazing rod , and some pieces of SS that I can cut into narrow
strips . I'm not sure which alloy any of the SS is , thus the question -
braze or weld ?
:
-------------------------------------
Snag wrote:
brazing ~should~ work fine but idk if i would feel comfortable with it
being
brazed. honestly i dont see how it is cost effective to try and make
these as
apposed to buying them. its cool and all you want to make them for him
but i
just dont think the time and materials you put into them are going to
produce as
good of a peg as is already mass produced. also since he just wants them
on the
back you want gnarling or some other form of grip on them. there are 2
styles
of pegs if my memory serves me correctly, textured and smooth. if you want
to do
a lot of standing or riding someone else on pegs you want the textured, if
you
want to be doing grinding on rails and such you are going to want the
smooth
ones.
maybe prices have changed a lot but i remember pegs being in the 20 buck
range
when i got my bmx bike, granted that was like 8-10 years ago but i doubt
they
are much more expensive now
-matt
##-----------------------------------------------##
Delivered via
formatting link
Forums
Web and RSS access to your
favorite newsgroup -
sci.engr.joining.welding - 12119 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##
Most of the high end, steel framed, road bicycles have brazed or
silver soldered joints, although the frames are made with "lugs" so
that the joints are actually socketed joints rather then simple butt
joints.
Cheers,
Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
Hey , you miss the point ... I WANNA make these ! I've got the materials
on hand , and have the machinery (mill and lathe) and tooling to do the job
right . Including two types of knurling tool .
I'm leaning right now towards making a cupped washer to go under the axle
nut and threading the sleeve onto it .
"Where'd ya get those cool pegs Scooter ?"
"My Grandpa made 'em for me !"
Killjoy.
If we made all our decisions on what is cost-effective, we'd all live in
studio apartments and wouldn't have garages full of fun toys -- er, tools.
If you braze make sure that there's plenty of surface area for a bond --
it's not necessary if the braze is perfect, but if it isn't...
"Where'd you get the hole in your ankle Scooter?"
"My Granpa made some stunt pegs for me ..."
(yea, yea -- now I'm being a killjoy. Were it me I'd still make the
pegs, though).
If I go with braze , it'll be a similar joint . Plenty of surface area for
strength . But for ease of install and being able to get at the axle nuts ,
I'm leanin' towards a threaded design . With at least 3/4" of threads for
strength . Scooter's a big boy for 9 yrs , he's a lineman on the youth
football team in his town ... and a good one too , if I do say so myself .
:
-------------------------------------
Snag wrote:
well dang if you have knurling tools then by all means, i was expecting
you were
just going to braze on the cup washers and just slap them on. i am all
for the
hand made factor (heck all of the xmas presents im giving this year are
hand
made... guess i dont have much option though being a poor art student that
has
access to a full glass shop and a full metalsmith studio ;) )
and mr. wescott, i have to think about cost effectiveness because of all
the
toys i "justify" haha
-matt
##-----------------------------------------------##
Delivered via
formatting link
Forums
Web and RSS access to your
favorite newsgroup -
sci.engr.joining.welding - 12129 messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##
I once read a very scientific article about how "bronze welding" a
British variation of brazing albeit with a different rod, was better
for building motorcycle frames. Apparently Norton had built some one
off frames for their racing motorcycles and found that the welded
joints had cracked as apposed to the non-cracking bronze welded joints
of the so called "production" feather-bed frame used on the normal
team bikes.
Cheers,
Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
If you go with welding, you should use a rod that has more chrome and
nickel than the parent material. Otherwise you can get carbides
formed in the weld and have cracking. I have some 312 stainless rods
and could chop up a couple of rods so they fit into a regular envelop
and mail them to you. But I would use silver brazing.
Dan
That would be me ... and I've decided to silver braze/solder them . Figgered
out tonight that the axles are 3/8-24 SAE , which I've got a tap for
(thought they'd be metric) . The slug in the end of the sleeve is going to
be the axle nut ... end inside the sleeve will be hexed for tightening
purposes .
Do an honest cost accounting and let us know how much these things are
worth, i.e., no material from scrap and spare time stuff. Material at
cost plus transportation; labor at prevailing rates; overhead
including SS and medical payments.
Cheers,
Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
Accidently hit send too soon. They are not threaded on shaft or if they are
they also have the nut on from the inside. They look like they are turned
out of a single piece. Probably a cone welded into a cylinder and then
turned to look like one piece. I would weld it myself.
Yup , or a one piece extrusion . I've seen both types online . I'm still not
sure how I wanna do these , it changes day to day .
Good thing is that once I decide , I've got the equipment to do it either
way (weld/braze or threaded) .
PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.