Easiest way of beveling 5/8" plate

Bridgeport mill, a straight end mill, and the head tilted at an appropriate angle like 45 degrees.

I doubt you would NEED a root pass with 6011, but it'll save you the time you would spend bevelling the edges.

Butt them together, crank up the amps, and go to town on it with the

6011, and you should be able to bounce your bead off a backup plate on the backside of the weld. If you want a really good groove, dip the 6011 in water prior to use.

Then have at with the 7018.

If you want to do it so it's pretty, that's another thing entirely. :-)

Cheers Trevor Jones

I am not exactly visualizing this, just shoot at it with a 7011 rod without any beveling? And it will penetrate that far???

i

Got a torch? Just use the torch to bevel the plates, leaving about

1/16" of the original vertical edge. Clamp a piece of angle iron down to act as a guide for the torch. This is common in the field. The other way is to find a big welding shop with a table torch that will cut bevels. I've done many a plate with a table mounted track cutting torch and when set up right it will do a fine job

For you application, I'd probably do a 3/8" bevel with the torch on one plate, space the plates about 1/8" apart, burn a hot pass of 6011 down the middle from the beveled side.Flip it over, use 7018 on the back side, finish up with a 7018 pass on the beveled side. If you weren't fussy, just skip the bevel and open the gap up a bit.

The weld will warp, it will be the devil to straighten it out. S> In reference to my early post, about a HF crane that I wanted to

I don't know any of the details and even if I did I could not do the math but somehow my sense of proportion does not correlate a 24"X13"X5/8" steel plate, a HF crane, a light truck bed, and low stress. I would think that if you need that kind of reinforcing plate it certainly should be bolted to the frame of the truck. A long lever like a crane can put a lot of stress on the attachment and truck beds are not very strong. Certainly not as strong as a

5/8" plate.

Don Young

Mill a bevelled edge ...FOR WELDING ??????

havent you guys ever heard of an angle grinder?

Stealth Pilot

Yes, but you have to seize every opportunity you get to use the little used axes on your Bridgeport...

I have a grinder, but I thought that I had to remove quote a lot of material (maybe 5mm on each side) and it is not exactly quick to do with a grinder.

i

It is with a big grinder, like a 7 " or 9" as opposed to the typical

4.5". I used a friends 9" Hilti once and other than damn near ripping your arms off, it sure removes material rapidly.

6011 on high amperage will dig pretty deep.

Try it on some scrap.

A welder friend of mine tells me of the guys in the yard he used to work in. Anyone pooched a weld, they would blow it out with a small 6011 rod, rather than showing signs of a screwup, by way of a grinder throwing sparks. Said you could always tell the FNG, as there would be a cloud of sparks. Not that the old guys didn't screw up, they just had less conspicuous ways of fixing it. Beat the heck out of hauling an extension cord up a bunch of scaffolding, too.

He was doing Xray'd welds, and they were passing.

Cheers Trevor Jones

The aft crossbar for my crane is 1-1/4" tubing with 1" bar inside and the forward one is 1/2" X 2-1/2" hot-rolled bar stock, both with tabs that go under the Ranger's bed bolts. The crane base attaches to two pieces of 1/4" thick by 2" angle iron running fore and aft between the cross beams. It all comes apart easily so I can reinstall the bed liner and takes little storage space.

Only the 1/2" x 2-1/2" crossbar deflects significantly with a 700 Lb load, which has enough leverage to compress the springs as much as

1000 Lbs in the bed. The crossbar hasn't taken a permanent set yet, though.

I use an old Dillon 5000 Lb force gauge to doublecheck this amateur homebrew engineering.

Before committing to any welding, make sure the jack will clear the wall of the bed as the crane swing around while you are busy with the load.

Jim Wilkins

Id seperate them about 1/8-3/16 of an inch, clamp them down and then hit it with 6010 or 6011. for a root pass, Run Hot!, then weld with

7018

But then..Im not a welder. Simply a lowly Dauber.

Gunner

Political Correctness is a doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

My first choice would be a torch, plasma would be a fairly distant second choice. If you bevel both sides then it's not out of reasonable reach of a grinder, it'd be pretty small bevels then.

John

Grab a grinder, bevel a 1/4" on each front face and again on each back face. Faster and probably better than anything else you are considering.

put a new wheel in of the correct type for the application :-) it'll rip it off in no time.

Stealth Pilot