fishplates

This is a follow up to previous post about welding 2x3 rect on top of same as kickup for model a frame. top piece is about 6 in. long and is flush with lower rail but faces are angled. Top piece is slightly wider, up to a 1/4 in. than lower rail. (boxed C ). Top 2 of 3 in of rear of top piece has x-member welded to it. Plan is to weld together along seam. Rear will have a

1/8 plate welded and spanning both 1 in of top and all (about 2 in) of bottom rail. Also top piece is angled at front and plan to bend a 1/8 plate to fit that face and run along top of bottom rail. Question is about side fish plates. Option one is flat plate on each side extending along bottom rail about 4 in. ahead of front of top piece, welded to each piece along top and bottom. ie 4 weld lines. Except have to deal with non flush side on inside. Option 2 I thought cutting rect pieces into an "L" for each side., so that plate is on side but goes under the bottom rail, the 2 meeting in mid of bottom of bottom rail. Would be welded along top piece at top and where they join under the bottom tail. ie 3 weld lines and none actually to the bottom rail ( unless that bottom weld include all 3 pieces). This allows for gap between fish plate side and bottom rail. A third option would be to use "L" on each side with one side having L on top of top piece and the other having L on bottom of bottom rail and then only 2 weld lines welding the L of one piece to long side of other, one at top and one at opposite bottom corner, basically wrapping the 2 pieces. Are option 2 and 3 better or worse , worth it or not worth it ,to ensure a solid joint and handle the width difference, since it will carry the body weight to the suspension. Comments sought, thanks.
Reply to
Ken Hilson
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