I fired up the stick welding side of that Lincoln I brought home,
today. Ive not got an argon bottle or a pump running yets, so havent
been able to fire up the Tig.
First thing I noticed about the stick welding arc on this machine..is
it feels really really harsh. The Dialarc 250 has a much smoother arc
in any mode, AC or DC and its easier to establish an arc and keep it
This Lincoln seems like its running at much higher heat, from the
sound and ;ook of the arc puddle, and the force of the arc, but welds
no better or worse a bead than the Dialarc. The arc diameter seems to
be far smaller as well, which is wierd. I was burning some 1/8" rod
and it burned a bead like 3/32" would on a straight pass. I found this
most odd..... lots of sound and fury, but a pretty small bead.
Is this something unique to this machine, a combination of reactor etc
etc that makes the arc really harsh?
Its hard for me to explain what I mean by "harsh"..more violent and
stiff an arc..where other machines Ive used give a nice frying bacon
noise, a nice smooth arc with minumum amounts of flying crap, less
under cutting and so forth.
The machine is entirely usable, but this one will take more getting
used to, than about any other stick welder that Ive used over the
Does anyone have a link to a manual to this machine? I cannot for the
life of me figure out which one it is on the Lincoln website
The data plate says Tig 250/250 with a code of 8809
Serial Number AC-U1921105578
I repainted it back to the original Candy Apple Red from the latex off
white someone had painted it and have built a table that bolts to cart
and covers the top of the machine all the way back to the bottle
holder and has lead holders on one side and tig holder on the other,
with filler rod tubes on it as well. Ill post some pictures later in
the weekend when I have all the bells and whistles finished up. Im
trying to design pull handle that either folds away, or is quickly
removable, just to get it out of the way.
A guy gave me some spun aluminum CO2 bottles that at one time or
another belonged to a soft drink supplier (no longer listed in the
phone book) and have manufacturing date codes of 1987 and 1989 stamped
into them, but no later testing dates. Are these doorstops?
A band around them indicate that they were Deposit bottles. Whats the
ramifications of this?
Next question..the Spark Switch. Is this only for use with TIG? It
pops my 60 amp breaker if its turned on and I strike an arc with the
I had 90' of lead, so cut it 35' for ground clamp and the rest is
connected to a "Short Sub" stinger that Ive had around. Is this too
much lead for this machine?
Come shed a tear for Michael Moore-
Though he smirked and lied like a two-bit whore
George Bush has just won another four.
Poor, sad little Michael Moore
There should be a hot-start adjustment for stick welding.
That should adjust the open-circuit voltage.
Unfortunately Lincoln kept using the same name for many different
Just download them all and find which one matches.
The original color was battleship gray, not red.
You could use them as air storage tanks for a punkin chukker.
They are rental tanks.
"spark" is old Lincolnese for High Freq.
Not it should have plenty of juice.
Not on that model. I own the 300/300 (which is gray) and was torn between it
and the 250/250, all of which were red that were on the showroom floor. I
remember it all too well. This was back in the mid 80's.
I've noticed the same thing on my unit. Always thought welders are just
different. I just went down and looked at my almost identical unit. I don't
see anything that sounds like a hot start adjustment. I'll ask for gunner, I
have these adjustments, have NO CLUE what to do with them:
Afterflow timer: Has electrode sizes listed or desired afterflow min to max.
Spark Intensity: adjusts by knob from low to high
Soft start: On/off
Spark start only: On/off
Any of these related to hot start by chance?
This controls the amount of time the gas flows through the torch after you
stop welding. Larger tungsten electrode means takes longer to cool off
with the post flow.
High frequency arc start. I adjust mine to be able to start the arc from
about 3/4" from the work.
Gradually ramps up the current when the arc is established.
High frequency control for establishment of arc. I use the start only
setting on most everything except aluminum. Aluminum needs HF all the time
for arc stability and cleaning.
I don't use the TIG side on my machine a whole lot. Others will be able to
answer in more detail.
It's tough to tell exactly what the current is set to on this machine
because of the different ranges and variable control. Is it maybe set
higher than you think? That might exlain the extra "flying crap" and
I had the same problem when TIGing on a 50-amp breaker. As soon as my foot
pressed the pedal it would pop about 1/4 of the time if the current was
under 100 amps or so and every time if it was at about 125 amps or more.
IIRC it called for a 90-amp breaker.
"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"
I'm sure it is! It was listed under their discontinued equipment manuals
I don't think the Idealarc ever popped the 50-amp breaker when stick welding
but most of what we did was around 90-125 amps.
Glad to help!
"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"
Lincoln always did this, instead of just listing the time in Seconds.
It is about 7 seconds to each increment.
I timed ours at school.
15-20 seconds is a good range.
High Frequency intensity,
Where you set this depends on how happy your high freq. unit is.
Every few years you should pull out the points, clean them and regap to
the factory spec, which should be between0.008" and 0.011", depending
This is for stick welding and drops the open circuit volts to start the
arc with less chance of sticking.
High Frequency Start only for DC TIG.