Engine rebuild?

In reverse order:

Yes, it is.

b: with the sleeve out, the end of the connecting rod should just slip onto the crank arm.

a: Most such engines have a slip fit, or a very slight press fit of the sleeve in the crank case. If everything is clean and not corroded you should be able to put it in without problem once the piston/conrod is in place.

Usually when you take these apart you want to put a witness mark on the sleeve so you know how it goes back into the case -- if this hasn't been done on yours then you need to line up the exhaust and transfer ports -- this can vary by engine, and may be obvious. If it isn't, it's very likely that the exhaust port is a bit lower on the sleeve, so it will open before the transfer port.

Clean it up first -- a quick web search on "engine", "crock pot" and "antifreeze" should pop up with a discussion of a preferred method. Once it's spanking clean put it all together with after run oil.

Bart-

I seem to remember that my G21 .40 & .46 had to remove the wristpin to place just the conrod on the crankpin. The crankcase had a screw-plugged hole in the rear in which to later insert the wristpin when the rod and piston holes were lined up properly.

Also, The exhaust port should be slightly HIGHER in the sleeve, not lower, so that it opens first as the piston travels down under combustion pressure.

-Dave

Of course I meant to have him look at the sleeve with the glow plug end down -- isn't that how everyone does it? :)

Thanks Tim & Dave, tried the tank soak (actually used a lab hotplate & thermometer with a coffee can 1/2 full of Prestone), it worked well! Heated the casing @ 250 for 10 mins in the oven to reseat the bearings. Replaced the (offset) con rod & slid the pin through the back.

Also found this site for tips & tricks;

Tried firing it up on a test bench, but almost wore out the rubber cup on a brand new starter. It popped a time or 2,. I think the carb needs some major "tweaking"..I'm sure the low speed idle screw is set way too rich, ...fuel was burping everywhere. I'll work on it more later on this week...after I get a new starter cup...

Thanks again! b

PS: it's the old Italian Saturno .60

"bart" wrote

The h*ll with the low speed idle screw... Set the main (high speed) needle about two turns out, set the throttle at a good 3/4 throttle, prime (hold finger over muffler outlet and spin it over a couple seconds) and then put the igniter on and give it h*ll !

Once it is running, you can try throttle down to set the idle air or low speed needle, whichever it has.

You were using muffler pressure onto the fuel tank, weren't you? It will probably need that.

You have also verified that you have a working glow plug and good glow battery, right? Also, a fresh new plug may help, since sometimes even though they glow, they have lost the catalyst, and will not run.

How is the compression? Spitting fuel all over may be a sign that the compression is gone.

Bart- I see exploded views and parts listings for several Super Tigre .60s in my

1968 World Engines catalog. Which one is yours? Front or rear intake? One piece case or is the front bearing housing separate? Single or double ring or lapped?

G60RV - rear intake, separate bearing housing, 2 rings G60FI - front intake, separate bearing housing, 2 rings G60 Race - rear intake, separate bearing housing, lapped ST60SR - front intake, one-piece case, 1 ring

Since you were wondering how to get the conrod on, I guess yours has the one-piece case, thus is the ST60SR. Interesting carb on the ST60SR - In the exploded view it looks like there's a separate venturi & spraybar coming off the front for low-speed, but an ad page talks about a new throttle with both an airbleed and a separate low-speed needle which moves with the "air bleed block" "to effect the carbonization of the fuel right at the spray bar entry point". Sounds like maybe the (one of the) first 2-needle RC carbs. Holler if you want scans.

The good news is if you butcher the conrod, a replacement from World Engines is only $1.50, according to the catalog.

-Dave

• You can check compression by hand-turning the engine to top dead center -- * it should want to spring back as you turn it. * If you hold it there for just a bit it will leak down, but it should take longer than a second. to do so. * If it does seem to have compression problems look for where it leaks. You can put a few drops of fuel in the exhaust port (with the muffler off) to see if it bubbles when you turn the prop. You can put a few drops on the head and at the head/ cylinder gap, and look for bubbles there. If it leaks at the port then your piston/cylinder (or your rings, if it has 'em) are shot. If it leaks around the head or the glow plug then you've found a problem that could be easy to fix.

• If I _really_ don't trust a carburetor I remove the fuel supply and see how the engine starts on a prime. It should give a good strong burst before it dies -- if it won't start on a prime with no carburetor, you don't have carburetor problems. * The hot antifreeze trick should work fine with carburetors, too. Just make sure you can physically reach into all the passages to clean them out.

Thanks everyone for the tips & tricks. It looks like the compression is gone :( & I highly doubt parts (piston, ring, sleeve) are still available. (It's the one piece case, single ring, front carb, Saturno) Oh well, it was fun & I do like my museum pieces. Thanks again! :-)