Re: Thunder Tiger Pro .46

Is it common for the thunder tiger pro .46 to run very hot

All engines run hot (to touch). TT's PRO 46 ordinarily runs just like any O.S. engine, and many would argue "even better".

It sounds like you haven't got enough oil in your fuel, probably too much nitro and possibly too hot a plug.

Stick it on the bench. Fit a Bolly 10.5x5 or APC 10x6, use a fresh container of fuel containing no more than 5% nitromethane, a minimum of 18% oil which for initial running in (first half dozen tankfuls) is preferably all degummed castor, fit an O.S. #8 or equivalent heat range quality plug (eg: Enya #4), open the needle valve 3½ to 4 turns, prime (4-6 choked rotations with throttle open wide) and start. Remove the ni-starter and close the needle valve until the engine just breaks into a (rich) two stroke. Run for 5-10 minutes, leaning out testing and adjusting idle mixture for smooth transition as required. When it'll hold a constant two strokem idle and transition smoothly, shut down, stick it in your plane and fly. IME, TT's will usually do this OOTB. If I stick them on the bench at all, it's just to give them an initial run to set up the N/V and adjust idle/transition, sort out any problem (never does with TT) should one appear before putting it in a model. I have 4X TT PRO 46s. The word "runs like a Swiss watch" cliche' comes to mind. Pure platinum.

Reply to
CguLL
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Hi Solo.

Sorry for you,but If I'm right your problem will be back soon. experienced the same situation whole summer with my pro46. No one at m club could explain it. Next time it hapens, have a close look at you glow plug. You will notice small "iron balls" welded to glow pug' element. These are small parts of metal coming from the rear cran shaft ball bearing. The "fused" metal parts are also what is keepin the piston out of TDC. The bearing is a NTN6902 and was rusted , s that the spacers between the balls(bearing) was falling apart. My engine is 2 years old (2 gallons burned) Burned 6 glow plugs to figure this out.$$$$ bearing is 20$ at bearing dealer Take good care when removing that bearing, it's not easy! From now, I'll be using "after run oil" and also added oil in m gallon. Let me know if I'm right

-- ve2ao

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ve2aos

"ve2aos" wrote

Let me guess. You use fuel with no castor oil?

Reply to
Morgans

Best way to remove the crank bearings is to heat the case. I think some guys bake it in the oven. I used a propane torch and a very thick glove the couple of times I had to remove/replace a bearing. The bearing usually just dropped right out once the case expanded enough. Same thing to install the new one. Only real problem I recall was the front bearing kept falling out while I was installing the rear. That was a GMS .32 and to this day its a real screamer.

Reply to
Fubar of The HillPeople

Problem is solved. found replacement bearing for 3$ in another bearin

shop. Engine runs like new for 3$

-- ve2ao

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ve2aos

shorten the screws by 1mm!

Reply to
Jim

Yes, a belt sander works well.

Reply to
Six_O'Clock_High

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