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Venture 60 build: Gluing trailing edge top sheet

I continue to be stunned by how much finesse and technique has drained from my brain. This feels like a first build!

I'm working on the right-wing and need to glue on the top trailing edge sheet (1.5" wide). How do I do this? The config is such that I can't simply pin it into place and use thin CA. I don't really even want to rely on pinning since that portion of the wing structure must be straight with a consistent glue bond.

My inclination is to do some variation of spreading some adhesive over the ribs a 1/2" wide triangular trailing edge piece, set the sheeting into place, and weight the entire surface down in some fashion.

Assuming this is the best way to go, what adhesive to use, and how to weight down the sheeting--basically applying uniform compression to the entire surface?

I could use thick CA which should supply adequate working time, or possibly Titebond (or similar). For weighting ( compression application), I could use lead shot filled bags, or angle aluminum or some variation.

My primary problem is that I forget the characteristics of glues like thick CA or Titebond in such an application. Experimentation may be in order to learn the behaviors. I may have no choice on that but thought I would post this problem anyway. Dave

Reply to
DaveH
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Simple enough... Pin the TE material to a few ribs, starting center out. Hold the TE down and hit the rib at the front of the TE lightly with CA at each pinned spot, then use a T-pin to prick the TE material over each rib. Spot glue each rib whilst holding the TE LIGHTLY in place. The CA will wick into place...

Bill

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Reply to
Bill Fulmer

Use white Elmer's glue or yellow wood glue. Spread on the edges of the ribs and, on a line with the ribs, onto the sheeting. Wait for the flue to dry. Then simply use your monoklote iron on high heat to iron it into place after securing the front edge with CA+. If necessary, wet the outside of the sheet with Ammonia or water to let the sheet bend easier. The water does not seem to affect the bond.

No need for pinning or weighing down because the bond is instantaneous.

Sam

Reply to
YankeeDelta2004_NOSPAM

Bill, please expand/clarify your comment to "use a T-pin to prick the TE material over each rib." Are you essentially suggesting that a hole go through the TE material into the top surface of the rib and then thin CA be applied through the hole. I apologize for being dense, but when I begin building my Venture 60, I suspect I'll want to use your suggestion.

Harlan

Reply to
H Davis

Sam:

I just tried this technique on some scrap balsa. I didn't wet the balsa first. Its works like a charm! This is going to come in handy one day.

Thanks for the tip.

Harlan

Reply to
H Davis

Bill:

Its little tricks like this that make time spent on this news group worthwhile.

Thanks,

Harlan

Reply to
H Davis

Harlan, that's exactly what I mean. The CA will wick thru the t-pin hole and form the bond. This is much easier and neater than trying to flow CA down the rib on the underside of the TE.

Cheers,

Bill

Reply to
Bill Fulmer

Harlan,

I'm not the originator of that method, but I'm glad to pass it on. I don't remember where I learned that, but I've been using that technique for years. Saves a lot of messy glueing and clamping and pinning.

You apply the glue to dry balsa and wait for the glue to dry. Then, if you need to wet the balsa to bend it around a rib or former surface, you can wet the balsa with water or ammonia. The glue will stick adhere when you apply heat.

Sam

Reply to
Old Sailor

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