I have, but there is a point beyond which the machine is scrap. A
engine that is old, worn, to begin with, and is also rusted shut, with
broken valves, is uneconomical to repair. My opinion only. I will
admire you if you restore it, but I bet that the restoration will be a
big net loss even if it succeeds.
You know that my opinion is not worth much, so, feel free to
disregard. I had bad luck with everything gasoline powered, which also
suggests that I do not know enough to have any insignts.
John and Ig are wimps! Minor setback, you now have to get a valve and maybe a
guide. Too bad I threw all my parts away when I got rid of the Clark. However,
now it's easy to get out. I like the welded nut and slide hammer. Those valves
won't be sodium filled, will they?
Just now read the complete thread, after responding to your response to
my first post.
That motor is going to have be completely disassembled, cleaned (vatted),
bored or sleeved, (depending on how badly pitted the cylinder walls are),
valve seats installed, because the what you have won't clean up, valve
guides replaced (at least the broken one) or guide liners installed.
I doubt that the pistons can be salvaged, and of course you will need a
set of rings, and valves, cam, main, and rod bearings, and a gasket set.
Very likely that the crank will need to be ground. May have to replace
some of the lifters, too. And you don't know if the block is cracked,
If that motor showed up in my shop, I would guesstimate around $1400 to
rebuild it. Probably around $800 (my cost)for parts. If it is one of
the oddities with a strange bore, weird water pump, goofy distributor,
etc., you may not be able to find parts for it.
I've rebuilt several thousand of those things over the years and none of
them was ever a straight-forward job.
FYI: sodium filled valves tend to explode like TNT when the stem is
oh that little thing? I was inside a machine base, cutting out a
bearing, and my leathers got hung up and while trying to free
myself..dropped the torch. It landed pointing directly at my knee,
and through the leathers...I was madly flapping my knee as I had to
reach down through the flame with my right hand to grab the torch.
No big deal, doesnt even hurt (burned the nerves) and the scab is
nearly all gone. The burn down the right hand and wrist..that still
hurts, but neither has caused me any flexibility problems.
Its been about 3 weeks or so. I heal pretty quickly..though not as
quickly as when I was a kid
Thanks for asking
The hottest places in hell are reserved for those who in times of great moral
crisis maintain their neutrality",
John F. Kennedy.
I had a seized Chevy 292 20+ years ago in a Union City steel bodied
Chevy Step Van. I got lucky with the original Breakfree penetrating
oil. Then I needed a gas tank, front grill, fender on the passenger
side, a back bumper, and to fix a couple holes in the roof that you
could put your fist through. I spend $8 to get the engine running,
another &8 to make an all aluminum tube grill, 97 cents to make a rear
bumper, and another $50 for all the other repairs. BTW, I used 26 pounds
of #6 3/8" self tapping sheet metal screws and over 100 pounds of
aluminized stainless steel to do the rest of the body work. The screws
were $1.50 a pound, and the aluminized stainless was not only free, but
cut to size, and had the edges bent. The hardest part was replacing the
lower door tracks without dismantling half the body. I spent about two
weeks fixing the truck, and a month loading it twice, for the two trips
south. I drove the truck over 5000 miles without removing the valve
cover, but I did have to put new bearings in the starter, and replace
the missing alternator. I found a 83 amp in a junk yard for $5. The guy
misread it, and said it was 30 amps, After a little gunk, it looked
brand new, and worked like new.
BTW, my typing may not be up to par. I had a palsy in my right eye
about seven weeks ago, and I am legally blind in my left eye, when not
wearing glasses. Even with them I have very limited vision. Low light
sensitivity, and poor color rendering. The VA doctors are making me
wait at least three months to see if it starts to heal, on its own. In
the meantime, I can set the font size in Netscape to read the messages
in a large font, but it doesn't affect the new window needed to reply.
I am more or less dead in the water, and have had to put at least ten
pages of projects on hold.
But did you take anything away from the experience?
LIKE TURNING OFF THE TORCH FIRST!
Or is this just another case of you can't teach an ole dog safe
Glad to hear your OK but more importantly how's the machine?
I missed the Staff meeting, but the Memos showed that Gunner Asch
wrote on Sat, 19 Jul 2008 17:35:45 -0700
Not quite as extravagant, but Nels was welding under a van and let
go of the rod to flip his goggles up to see how it was going. But
when he reached for the rod, it had moved, and he grabbed the hot tip.
Ouch! he sat up in surprise, and banged his head on the underside of
the van. That's when he dropped the torch in his lap.
Nelson had a number of incidents involving welding torches and
fire. Like the smoldering away of his coveralls, till he noticed the
smell of smoke. Hole about a foot in diameter over his stomach, with
just the zipper in the middle.
Sigh, life is so much fun when it is other people setting it on
"I had just been through hell and must have looked like death warmed
over walking into the saloon, because when I asked the bartender
whether they served zombies he said, ?Sure, what'll you have?'"
from I Hear America Swinging by Peter DeVries
I am not sure if the guides have a step at the top but with the bottoms of
the valve and guide broken off it should not take much more demolition to
get the rest of the valve and guide out. Just be careful to not break the
block or the camshaft and try not to damage the valve seat. The camshaft may
not withstand a whole lot of pressure from the lifter as I think some of
them are actually chilled cast iron. A torch thru the port will sever the
valve stem easily and the stub can be ground off and driven out. If the
guide does not drive out from the top you can rig a screw puller to pull it
after you get the valve out.
Don't forget to ream the cylinder ridges before you try to remove the
pistons. Don't mix up the pistons, rods, and caps so all can go back where
they were originally. That cylinder seems pretty bad and undoubtably should
be bored or sleeved for the best job. It is best, but not absolutely
necessary to bore all the cylinders to the same oversize. You would be
surprised at how worn and pitted the cylinders can be in these old engines
and the engine still run okay. When I asked someone why the smallest
oversize pistons for my old John Deere two cylinder were .045" over
standard, he said that by the time they were worn enough to be rebored they
were usually too worn for any smaller oversize.
Somewhere along the way you will have to decide just how good you want that
motor to be and how much rebuilding you are going to do. You will likely be
shocked at the cost of parts for it, compared to common auto engines.