Can anyone tell me if you need seperate isolation for the above or if you can get away with wiring via a redundant light fitting i.e replace spare kitchen light with fan and use original single pole switch? Also bathroom timed fan supplied straight from light fitting. Thanks for any advice.
extractor fans (uk)
Oct 24, 2004
5 Replies
Yes seperate isolation is required via a switched fuse spur is probably best
It needs isolation with all poles isolated, so a single pole switch won't do. If the isolating switch is not positioned such that it would be under the sole control of someone working on the fan (i.e. if it's some distance away or out of sight), then it must be capable of being locked in the off position. A plug and socket is also a suitable isolator (although not generally suitable in a bath or shower room). For a low power fan, a suitable plug and socket could be a 2A shuttered BS548 round-pin plug/socket, a klik lighting plug/socket, or a clock outlet.
Special 3-pole fan isolating switches are available for this purpose. They look like a light switch with an extra wide rocker, and suitable labelling. They are sometimes designed to be locked off (via two tiny holes in the sides of the rocker which are only exposed in the off position, and a special padlock can be locked into these to stop the rocker being switched on).
You could also use one of these for the non-timed fan case above since it includes the appropriate labelling and locking mechanism, and just leave one pole unused.
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you can pick up the power at the light fixture. Then you have exhaust whenever you turn on the light... unless you are one of those that poops in the dark.
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what are those limey's afraid of... the fan could come on while someone is working on it and grab him by the arm and sling him out the roof vent... then all you'd have left is blood gushing from the fan assembly.?
:)
Phil Scott
Thanks everyone, 3 pole it is
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