We use the Hillman 4000 key machine at work and recently we changed the jaw assembly and adjusted it, however some keys, KW-1 and KW-10 sometimes don't cut correctly. The customer states the key goes in and won't turn. Other keys, house and car seem fine. Any ideas why those two keys have occassional problems? We buff the keys to smooth them out. Could it be a bad batch of blanks? Hillman is our supplier. Thanks.
Could be depth, spacing, or badly machined blanks. Since Kwikset and Titan locks are fairly easily available, I'd suggest to cut dups for one or two of each of these, and see if you can recreate the problem in your shop. Disassemble the locks, and check for depth, spacing, etc, with the lock in pieces.
Adjusting key machines isn't rocket science, but it does take some skill and wisdom. And now and again, you have to cut a key for a lock that you have at your shop.
Please let us know how things work for you.
need dial calipers or equal to do some measuring.. THOUSANDS matter..you might be right on the borderline.
take 2 blanks, that MEASURE the EXACT same width (ROFL) as that is HARD to find in some blanks.. and copy one blank onto the other- IF it totally misses, maybe this is good, but if it CUTS and you KNOW they are the exact same width, then its NOT adjusted right
--Shiva--
I have seen quite a few out of spec KW-1 blanks.
look at the LEFT side.. where the bar comes out and rides the CUT KEY?
allen socket screw on the top, if I see the picture right? SHOULD BE a screw underneath riding in a groove in that bar stock
catch the boss gone.. LOOSEN BARELY-sloppy is NOT needed, snug is good.... that allen screw on top, after putting 2 identical blanks in the machine. the cutter on the right should BARELY touch the uncut key when you rotate the cutter by hand-POWER UNPLUGGED.
IF its NOT touching, screw the screw UNDER the bar in a half turn THEN back the screw back out, to about 1/5th LESS turn than when you started.. you DO want tension pushing OUT on the bar BARELY. try turning the cutter again by hand.. see how it is.. whichever way you need to go, END UP with tension pushing OUT on the bar when you are done.. tighten the set screw on top and RECHECK..
--Shiva--
BTW, it looks to me IDENTICAL to an Ilco 040 IIRR..
--Shiva--
Get out the machines manual or order one if you have to and make sure it's adjusted properly. If it isn't. Adjust it. Also check for slop in the carriage bushings. If the bushings are worn out no amount of adjustment in the world will make it cut worth a damn.
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If he is truly cheap, then he should realize that if the customer gets a key that does not work, several things might happen.
First he could bring it back for a second (third, fourth etc.) try. Even if you suceed the second time you have already scrapped the blank.
If the customer brings it backl for a refund, you have scrapped the blank and lost the sale.
If the customer pitches the key and does not come back, you have lost the customer.
These options are far more costly than doing the job correctly the first time, even if it means loosing a few test blanks.
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