I have my safe door apart. Eveything removed. Lock, latch and all. All the filler was cracked by a forklift ramming the door.
Have the metal all straightened. But what is all the gray colord material that was cracked, that I removed? Certainly is is not concrete that I thought it was. Too light weight.
Anyway I cleaned it all out and where do I get some more? Is is "putty" or the like?
I believe safe insulation is still usually a form of plaster/cement. The supply houses that cater to safemen can supply it. I have no experience working with the stuff so I can't advise beyond that.
Nitroglycerin, and it had turned a greasy yellow and started to crystalize. It was in an old, abandoned RR office under a flight of steps. The door had been locked in the open position and there was a notice printed on the outer door that it would not be wise to use force on the safe. When I removed the door's cover plate, that's when I saw the vial. I called the police, who called in the Army. They put the entire door in an explosive container and transported it to a range where they detonated it with a blasting cap. The sign on the door was valid... The door was severely mangled. The glass vial was about the same size as a non-filtered cigarette. It looked like it was made from some lab glassware. Definitely not factory, and definitely designed to injure or maim anyone tampering with the safe.
The worst part was it shot the whole day and I didn't earn a dime.
I think it is a concrete made with vermiculite as the aggregate. and gypsum rather than the sand. It retains moisture until heated, where in it releases steam to prevent the internal temperature of the safe to get hot enough to burn paper.
Over time the moisture is slowly lost and the amount of time it can be effective declines.
If you really want to do it yourself, try making a test batch with standard portland cement and the vermiculite (available in the garden department) in the ordinary proportion of rock, and the gypsum (Also available in the garden department) instead of the sand. It might need a little extra water as the substitute ingredients will soak up a lot.
When wet it should be pourable but not soupy nor stiff.
When dry this should be hard, but not so hard that you can't chip it with a screwdriver.
Probably could use castable kaolin based insulation. Insulation specialists have it for building laboratory ovens and furnaces. Have a talk to someone who caters to the pottery and enamelling fraternity.
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