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Problem with lock in a Therma-tru type door

I went to service a door with a multi point locking system. His key suddenly turns 180 instead of 360 and he can't extend the bolt from the outside with the key and keep it extended because he now has to turn the key back 180 to remove it. This retracts the bolt.

Does anyone have any experience with these type doors or know what might be causing this problem?

More details...

I've heard of Thermo-tru but the customer was pretty sure it was a ThermoGuard door and said he thinks they went out of business.

I just spoke to Thermo-tru cust service and he claimed their keys rotate about 120 to lock then 120 back to remove the key. This isn't the same as the door I saw although I just worked on a Thermo-tru door last week (I see maybe 1 a decade - what are the chances of that?) and they worked very much the same although the Thermo-Tru did have a little latch you had to activate to remove the cyl and this one did not.

This door uses the Euro low profile cylinder in a mortise lock and you have to pull up on the handle to extend locking bolts on the edge of the lock edge of the door. There is one on the upper edge and one on the lower edge. These extend into holes in the jamb above and below where a normal deadbolt bolt would extend.

There is also a thin, square bolt (maybe 1 x 1 x 1/4 inches) that extends using the key. As I said, something is now preventing the key from turning

360.

I removed the cylinder and it looked fine. There is a long, metal plate on the edge of the door from top to bottom held on with about 20 screws. This must cover the connected locking bolts and it must also be removed to remove the entire mortise lock.

I didn't want to start taking it apart without some research for fear things would fall out and I wouldn't be able to get it back together.

Any thoughts, comments, ideas, guesses would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Reply to
Ted Swirsky
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Sounds a lot like Schlage deadbolts of olde.

See if there is a swivel tail piece at the back of the cylinder. If there is, dissemble the thing and grease where the tailpiece fits in.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

3 point lock, meaning the 'dead bolt at the middle, and hooks at top and bottom corners of the edge? an 'atrium' type..

step back, look at the door and MAKE CERTAIN that its 'equal in its frame-meaning the crack between door and jamb is pretty well the same.. if this type door sags, things get jammed out of alignment QUICKLY.. (termites in a house jammed up one for me once-similar situation, could not be locked from outside OR inside..the framing under the jamb was gone, door assemble settled and had a crack of almost 3/8" in one spot, and was dragging on another..)

the above assumes the lock works OK with the door OPEN? it SHOULD. if not, something has either broken or become disconnected within the lock case itself.. digital camera and take lots of pictures as you disassemble.. --Shiva--

Reply to
--Shiva--

Here is how I would approach the problem. First, see how the lock works with the door open. This will isloalte any alignment problems from lock problems. Assuming the lock is not working properly, then you need to find out why. This will probably require taking the lock out of the door.

Once you have the lock in hand discnect the upper and lower rods, and try the lock without them. This should tell you if the lock is the problem or the secondary bolts.

If the lock is still not functioning, now open it up. Hopefully the probem can be found and resolved without having to find parts.

Good luck.

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

No tailpiece. Low profile euro cyl with the 'tailpiece' in the center of the cyl.

The lock was tested with the door open so the bolts are not binding in the holes. The BIG questions is if anyone has ever taken the long metal plate off the edge of the door and if it's easy to take apart or is the entire thing going to fall out in a mess that can't be put back together again without the instructions.

Ted

Storm> Sounds a lot like Schlage deadbolts of olde.

Reply to
tswirsky

Sorry. I should have mentioned the lock was tested with the door open so the bolts are not binding in the holes.

The BIG questions is if anyone has ever taken the long metal plate off the edge of the door and if it's easy to take apart or is the entire thing going to fall out in a mess that can't be put back together again without the instructions.

Good idea about the camera, but I was wondering if anyone knew anything about the job of taking it apart BEFORE I started.

Ted

Reply to
tswirsky

ok, it works OPEN, bolts and all, key turns easy.,, then its the door FRAME problem..

1/16" WILL totally screw you over on these, there is no room for sag. in fact it dont even take the 1/16.. less will foul it up --Shiva--
Reply to
--Shiva--

I never said it works with the door opened. I said the lock was TESTED with the door open. It was not the cylinder. It was not a binding problem.

The guy called again this morning to ask me to take it apart all the way and he would accept the risk of things getting worse.

While examining the mortise lock, a little piece of metal fell out. It obviously broke off from somewhere and was blocking the tailpiece from turning all the way. I did a few things (boring unless you really want to know) and now it works.

The answer to my original main question is No, it's not a problem to take the metal bar off and remove the linkages to the additional bolts.

But don't ever ask me to rekey those euro cyls with the grey plastic caps. I don't know why, but they cause me the worst problems.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Ted

Reply to
Ted Swirsky

there IS AVAILABLE a special follower made JUST FOR THEM.. how about getting ahold of one that the allen headed screws in the pin stacks are 'welded' in by 'something.. tried 3 solvents and never could get them out.. --Shiva--

Reply to
--Shiva--

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