Sticky Lockwood deadlatch

Scenario 1 : Alignment between the surface mount deadlatch assembly and the outer cylinder is probably off a bit. Try loosening the 4 screws that hold the surface mount latch assembly and move it around a bit and see where the "sweet" spot is and try to re-mount it in that position. Scenario 2 : The tail piece from the outer lock is a tad long and is hitting at the back of the slot it enters, and when you tighten the 4 inner casing screws it causes the bind, if that is the case, trim a little at a time off of the tail piece till the binding stops. You may actully see the second case scenario improve by the steps in scenario 1, they can be tricky. Assuming that is the type of lock assembly you are describing.

Steve

I think that Steve made some good suggestions.

Why do you want a double cylinder lock there? What if someone is locked in, accidently, by horse play or in an intent to injure. Is there another easy way out?

Is the new door the exact same thickness as the old one?

Thanks, all. There is so much input I'll look at it off line.

One reply I picked up on the scan: why double cylinder? I just happen to have it lying around.

You said that you've looked at this, but be sure. If the holes in the door were not bored straight, then it will also bind (everything else being equal). Occasionally, a door will look like it was bored correctly, but its off just enough to cause a bind. In this scenario, certain locks are more tolerant than others. I've read all the other suggestions, and they are right on the money. But also check the alignments.

Jack

Just be aware of the safety hazard of having an exit door which can't be opened without finding the key for it. In case of a fire or other emergency, that could be lethal. Someone told how to change a key into a thumb turn for the inside.

take a small square, and apply to one face and edge of door..

use the SQUARE and the 0 point to measure the backset... NOT the edge of the door.. if its off 1/16" you can get problems in binding... and from what I ahve seen, -oh the edge is square and they measure back from EACH EDGE... not realizing its that tiny amount off..

--Shiva--

Because Lockwood deadlatches are almost entirely constructed of 'Zamac' (pot metal), their shape is easily distorted when tightening up the case screws, if the cylinder hole is not perfectly square on to the door face. Two ways you can overcome the problem, #1 re-drill the cylinder hole. #2, take the casing off and file the rectangular latch hole where the latch is binding, rub a bit of lipstick on the latch, and it will show you just where to file. Cheers.

When I get something goofy like this, I clamp my Kwikset drill jig on, and redrill the holes. Clear them out in case something is out of whack. You'd be absoloutely amazed when I get the drill jig on, how much door preps can be out of line.

AFAIK there are two lock manufacturers called 'Lockwood' one in USA and one in Australia (that one now owned by ASSA-Abloy). Does anyone know whether they had a common heritage or did the Australian one (called Ogden Industries in the past) once license USA Lockwood technology? Or was the name 'copied' but no trademark action taken (as with Australian 'Woolworths' never AFAIK had anything to do with FW Woolworth but just borrowed the name).