Why Won't Anyone Help?! (InteLock Problem/Trouble)

I had posted this last week (copied underneath) - perhaps it
didn't propagate?
The InteLock Company is completely unresponsive to both
telephone calls, e-mails, and IIRC their website doesn't
list a physical address. I wonder if anyone lives near
them, knows a vendor (national, I hope) that stocks their
(krappy) products, or has some old stock parts.
Even better if you know how bad their customer service is,
and have soured parts that interchange to repair the lock
sets that the company (apparently) refuses to sell parts
for.
I'm in a pickle here and would very much appreciate some
help! Also, I'm betting any information about parts
substitution would be well appreciated by the rest of the
group...
Thanks in Advance,
Stephen Kurzban
> Bought it over 10 years ago. As I went through paperwork, I
> recall having had to take the first one back for warranty
> replacement, and having one of the microswitches go bad
> after we had that replacement about long enough for the
> warranty to expire. When I had called about repair, IIRC,
> they wanted more than I paid for the new unit.
>
> There's lots of negative stuff on dejanews about them, but
> quite puzzling as it may be, they are still around. I
> called their toll free # (800) 562-5875 but the only thing
> that answers the phone is a machine, and they won't return
> calls (please feel free to call and encourage them <s>)... .
>
> Anyway, the 2nd microswitch gave up and upon disassembly, I
> note it is a custom (somewhat heavy duty) version of a 3
> 1/2" floppy disk drive write protect switch. I'm thinking a
> standard one won't last long, and resoldering the
> cheap-looking board could be a one time deal... .
>
> Does anyone have the microswitches in stock (or the board
> with two of them on it?) that they would be willing to let
> at a fair price, or any alternative means of contacting
> InteLock (maybe you live in their location)? Is there
> anyone repairing these that has had any luck finding a
> reasonable substitute replacement part for these switches?
>
> Just for the search engines, the InteLock product line is
> unreliable, and the company even gave the large retailer a
> hard time when I returned the defective first unit while the
> product was still relatively new on the market. If you are
> contemplating purchasing one, count on having problems with
> it, and count on InteLock ignoring you.
>
> Thanks in advance for any and all help!
>
> Stephen Kurzban
Reply to
Stephen Kurzban
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Lucky for you, microswitches are relaly not too complex nor are there too many variations. Check out this link
formatting link
see if any are close.
The existing microswitch will have the ampherage and voltage ratings on the body of the switch somewhere. If it's not listed, make sure the switch you buy will handle the same number of amps as the fuse for the unit.
If it get too confusing (n.o. VS n.c. VS momentary cotact) bring it to an electronics repair shop. They have the tools to solder in a new switch and to figure out what kind of switch it was. Most VCR or TV repair shops should be able to diagnose this kind of repair.
Daniel
Reply to
dbs__usenet
Daniel,
The main confusion is finding one that will survive exposure to outside temperature and humidity, and is designed with the same actuation characteristics (such as make/break distance and pressure, contact bounce, etc.). Rating is inconseqential as the only load is the digital circuitry.
Soldering is not a skill issue for me as much as not having to do it over and over again if the switch is not suitable - because the cheap looking board will probably break or otherwise disintegrate if it becomes necessary to do the work more than once. The board is through-hole technology, not SMT, but limited space will probably preclude repair jumpers, even if they were 30 gage...
I just hope to find or otherwise obtain a solution that won't require me to do this over and over again, as I do not believe the unit will stand up to this either without needing other parts, like the mylar based circuit wiring between unit halves. Not only that, but if I have to scrap the unit, it is bigger than most lock sets, so the door is going to look like hell (my wife would not be happy with me about that).
I appreciate your thought(s) and have Mouser sending me an updated catalog. I will also browse Newark, Digikey, and other big name distributor catalogs for a possible match-up after taking exact mesurements, but I do tend to think I've got one shot left and the switch is custom... .
It makes one wonder how many other people are facing having to scrap a $100+ lock due to bad (non-existant) customer service.
ANYBODY GOT InteLock PARTS STOCK :-) ... ???
Best,
Stephen Kurzban
dbs_ snipped-for-privacy@tanj.com wrote: > > Stephen Kurzban snipped-for-privacy@hiwaay.net wrote: > >> > >> Anyway, the 2nd microswitch gave up and upon disassembly, I > >> note it is a custom (somewhat heavy duty) version of a 3 > >> 1/2" floppy disk drive write protect switch. I'm thinking a > >> standard one won't last long, and resoldering the > >> cheap-looking board could be a one time deal... . > >> > >> Does anyone have the microswitches in stock (or the board > >> with two of them on it?) > > Lucky for you, microswitches are relaly not too complex nor are there too > many variations. Check out this link
formatting link
to see if any are close. > > The existing microswitch will have the ampherage and voltage ratings > on the body of the switch somewhere. If it's not listed, make sure > the switch you buy will handle the same number of amps as the fuse for > the unit. > > If it get too confusing (n.o. VS n.c. VS momentary cotact) bring it to > an electronics repair shop. They have the tools to solder in a new > switch and to figure out what kind of switch it was. Most VCR or TV > repair shops should be able to diagnose this kind of repair. > > Daniel
Reply to
Stephen Kurzban
I think I have one complete unit on a display that I took off my counter when Intelock decided to sell these locks at the mass marketers for a retail price less than I could buy them for wholesale within a month of visiting the factory and hearing them swear that this kind of marketing would never be done.
I don't want to sell just the circuit boards, but a C-note will get you the whole thing.
Reply to
Roger Shoaf

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