1/3 hp is too small for your lathe. 3/4 hp is the minimum for moderate
useage, 1 hp if you want to carve off some blue chips.
snipped-for-privacy@noplace.org wrote:
The heading Bigger is better and Newer is better can be applied to a
lot of things from cars to women. I'm not contemplating replacing or
purchasing a new motor at this time but simply attempting to establish
what I got and make it run.
Has anybody seen an actual specification for the motor size and rpm
etc. for this lathe?
My use will NOT be for production - likely just for fun and perhaps
only in softer metals and even plastic. Time is not a factor - 28 rpm
may be just fine <grin>. With that in mind - what may I be missing?
Mike
I am running a 1/2 horse on my 101.07403 12in. and it works quite well.
I think a 3/4 to 1hp would be overkill and may bump up against the
countershaft...but who knows. Anyway, the 1/3 will work also, depends
on how hard you will push it.
The 1/2 is forgiving when I forget to disengage the back gear. It just
squeals the belts, but nothing broken. I like a forgiving lathe...not
much else in this world gives me a break when I brain fart...
John
snipped-for-privacy@noplace.org wrote:
A half horse motor is usually used with that size lathe but a 1/3 hp motor
will do the job well enough. Remember that those lathes are light duty
lathes and won't take the power that other makers lathes will take.
--
Why do penguins walk so far to get to their nesting grounds?
Mine is 1/2 HP and it's been fine for everything I've tried to do with it.
Since you already have the 1/3, why not try it and worry about it only if it
seems underpowered. :-)
Best Regards,
Keith Marshall
snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com
"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"
Most manufacturers do not "suggest", they just "supply" one that is
cheap enough to sell. My table saw with a 1 hp open frame motor works so
much better with a 2 hp TEFC. And my 10" Logan with a 1/2hp motor would
sure like a better drive system.
snipped-for-privacy@noplace.org wrote:
I *think* that he is talking about a 220V single-phase motor.
No, it is *not* two phase. I don't think that we really want to restart
that debate. :-)
Real two phase motors exist -- but they are extremely rare, and
pretty close to useless in most of the country.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: < snipped-for-privacy@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
No, Mike. Residential 110v service is single phase. Residential 220v
service is single phase, also.
Three phase power is available in most industrial settings, but seldom in a
residential area.
LLoyd
On Fri, 11 Aug 2006 16:19:38 GMT, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
Well MF
Live and learn.
What makes the difference (other than perhaps wire size) between
residential and industrial?
Same two hots + neut for 220???
Mike
For a given ampacity, there's no difference between industrial and
residential single phase power wiring.
Three phase has three hots and no 'neutral', although there is a ground.
(How can it deliver power from three hots and no neutral, he asks?)
Three phase power is developed phase-to-phase in what are called "Wye" or
"Delta" configurations.
LLoyd
LLoyd
That's just a phase you're going through. No to worry.. hang around
here, and it'll pass quickly
WB
..............
snipped-for-privacy@noplace.org wrote:
No -- that is single phase. The only 110V three phase which I
have encountered was to run aircraft gyrocompasses and artificial
horizons -- and that was also 400 Hz, not 60 Hz.
No -- at least not in the typical home shop. 220v in the home
is also single phase.
The difference between the two (in US home wiring) is that the
home gets 220V (or 240V, or 230V or somewhere in the vicinity) from the
transformer either on a power pole or a transformer in a housing on the
lawn. The center tap of that 220V winding is connected to ground and
brought as a neutral to the house. 110V equipment is connected between
one of the ends of the winding and the neutral, while 220V equipment is
connected between the two ends, ignoring the neutral center tap. So
power comes from two wires in either case (though some 220V equipment,
such as an electric oven in the kitchen or an electric clothes dryer may
run some 110V devices between the neutral and one side. In an oven, it
would be likely to be the light bulb in the oven, or a timer mounted
on the back panel. Note that there is also a separate ground brought to
the equipment for safety -- and no current should normally be drawn
through that line -- though exceptions used to be made for the single
light bulb in the oven, or the timer in the clothes drier. That is no
longer allowed.
True three phase has three wires bringing power to the load
(motor or other things), *plus* a safety ground, plus an optional
neutral.
The voltage on each of those lines compared to one of the others
will reach a peak either before or after the other combinations used as
comparisons.
With standard household power, one side of the 220V line reaches
a positive peak at the same instant as the other reaches a negative peak,
so there is no time shift to draw a motor in one direction or the other,
which is what three phase motors depend upon.
BTW -- your lathe's motor can probably be re-wired to operate
from 220V instead of 110V. This has some advantages. It draws less
current at 220V, so it can operate with lighter gauge wire, and it is
less likely to trip a circuit breaker than when running on 110V. My
Clausing with a 1-1/2 HP motor was tripping the 110V circuit breaker
about one start in eight -- just often enough to be a nuisance.
Rewiring it for 220V cured that problem. You may not have this problem
as your motor is smaller.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: < snipped-for-privacy@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
On 11 Aug 2006 21:16:08 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@d-and-d.com (DoN. Nichols)
wrote:
I take your word for all that.
I will need to find a good basic write up of both the theory and the
practical wiring involving NON 110v stuff. Know of any such?
When I changed the whole house fan and the forced air motors I simply
copied wire colors - not knowing precisely what was going on. Luckily
it worked.
Mike
Not really. I've been playing around with electricity (at least
low-voltage DC electricity) since the 1950s or a bit earlier -- as a
kid), and working with electronics for most of my life since.
O.K. For 115VAC house wiring the basic rules:
1 Black is *hot* (think "death" :-)
2) White is neutral. (Or it may be the other side of a 220V
feed.)
3) Red may be the other side of a 220V feeed.
4) Green, or green with yellow stripes, or bare copper is the
safety ground.
Note that blue and brown are used in recent European equipment,
and I would have to look it up myself to be sure about them. The
green/yellow remains the safety ground.
And note that the meaning of black (and other colors) *changes*
in electronics devices past the AC power point.
Black in there is ground.
White is a signal wire of no particularly dangerous voltage.
Red is a positive DC voltage. (Commonly +5V in computer power
supplies.
Yellow is a second DC voltage. (Commonly +12V in computer power
supplies.
Blue is frequently a negative voltage -- with -12V being common
in computer power supplies.
Green is frequently filament voltage (low AC voltage -- typically
6.3 or 12.6 Volts) in *old* tube equipment.
For other colors -- all bets are off. Sometimes you will find
the colors representing wire numbers matching the color codes
used to mark the values of resistors:
0 Black
1 Brown
2 Red
3 Orange
4 Yellow
5 Green
6 Blue
7 Violet
8 Gray (or Slate)
9 White
and in some ribbon cables, the colors have no meaning other than
wire numbers -- so black is not necessarily ground, and red is
not necessarily a positive DC voltage.
All of this about electronics is just to show you that the
colors in electronics *don't* follow house wiring rules.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
Email: < snipped-for-privacy@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
On 12 Aug 2006 00:15:53 GMT, snipped-for-privacy@d-and-d.com (DoN.
Nichols) wrote:
<snip>
<snip>
I was taught (worked in electical for a few years) that if
you make "white" hot, it is always hot.
When running romex it is sometimes necessary to make white
hot. For instance when running a single romex down to say a
light switch. In this case you would make the hot wire
coming down to the light switch white and the switched leg
going back to the light black. Now you have the proper black
in the light box to go with the white neutral. Most likely
you would also have the white going down to the light switch
in a wire nut with a black feeding the light box from
another source.
It was a simple rule and made good sense to me. I have
always tried to follow it. Figuring out somebody else's
wiring is easy if they followed this rule.
I'll be curious to see if Bruce has anything to add :)
I believe the only use of a white wire to be hot, that's permitted, is
for lighting circuits. The references I've seen have described this
method for commercial and residential lighting fixtures.
I don't recall if this method was also permitted for wall receptacles
controlled by a wall switch, though.
All of the references that I've seen, for using the white wire have
directed that the white insulation be marked black when it's used for a
hot lead.
This can be permanent marker or electrical tape wrapped around the
length of the white lead.
If the hot lead isn't clearly marked, someone else could be exposed to
shock or electrocution from a wire/terminal that's usually not
recognized as hot.
WB
............
Leon Fisk wrote:
Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.