Air powered booster pump?

I like this short, lightweight drill for small holes freehand, especially when I'm on a ladder and have only a hanging canvas bag to put tools down in.

formatting link

It's rather slow on steel thicker than 29 ga roofing, but it's easier to start in a punch mark than a heavier, faster drill.

-jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins
Loading thread data ...

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

Hey Gary,

50 foot of hose will have a fair loss. What happens if you use a shorter hose as a test?

If you can get the 120PSI at the source, and if you are only going to "top-up" the tires, maybe one of those 20 gallon "air pigs" filled at the source will give you what you need.

Take care.

Brian Lawson.

Reply to
Brian Lawson

Brian Lawson fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

This is just silly. Two THOUSAND feet of hose would have zero loss, unless it had leaks! As PT aptly pointed out, the gas laws prohibit any pressure in a closed system from being any different anywhere.

If you cannot get more than 98lb at the end of a 50' hose headed by 120psi, then you are A) not waiting until the pressure finally reaches its asymptotic limit [which it MUST, absent leaks], or B) have leaks -- major leaks.

Lloyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Correct!!!

I think that there is a pressure loss at the Schrader valve or some such, like a spring that needs to be pushed by air.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus11878

Ignoramus11878 fired this volley in news:uP2dnf1yMZFcoQ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

Not when a chuck is engaged on a Schrader, no. Both the chuck's valve and the Schrader valve are fully opened when fully engaged.

More likely is a bad face washer in the chuck, causing a leak. An expanding-collar lock-on chuck can solve that, and make the job easier, too.

Lloyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Lloyd, I had the same problem as the OP, the last 10 PSI are very difficult to push into a tire.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus11878

Yeah, that might save most of the fall-over accidents. I'll keep an eye out for some. But I drill pilot holes, too, and those need to go deeper. I break a lot of 3/32" drills in window openings on metal flanges when installing blinds. The setback they require usually falls on the edge of a metal corner and they skid sideways and break as often as they drill through.

I stock up on Hertel, Triumph, and Precision when MSC has sales and free shipping. 1/8" is one that I usually wear out rather than break, so that's another size on my list. At a buck or so a pop, it isn't too painful.

I typed "stub drill bit" and it gave me screw machine length, which cost from $1.06 for Interstates up to $6.88 a pop for Guhring. Ouch! In qty 12 plus s/h, usually.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Yeah, I have some bottles for some stuff like that, but I'm referring to the Snappy hex holders for drill bits. I have a 7pc set from 1/16 to 1/4", and they're falling out of the (included) holding box after a year.

formatting link

Reply to
Larry Jaques

I have one and use it at home with the HF hex set of billdrits. They're surprisingly strong for a tiny motor, aren't they? I couldn't believe that they'd drive a #10x3.5" deck screw into Doug Fir, but Glenn showed me that trick and I bought one of the things the same week. They're very handy. Batteries sure as heck take a long time to recharge, though. My Makita 3Ah lithiums take 20 minutes, but the Ryobis don't seem to have charged fully until 12 hours later.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Uh, show me how to hang blinds with a drill press please, sir. Or drill thru trim into the siding on a house to hang it. Yup, their rowdy kids tore it off while running around the house chasing each other, so I screwed them on for the owner. With Liquid Nails added, in a couple cases. I truly wished to offer child rearing advice, but you know how that always goes over with negligent parents. What the heck? It's job security, I guess.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

formatting link

Reply to
Steve W.

I like that it fits in a pocket so I can also carry a full-sized drill in a holster, as it doesn't have the battery life to do a big job by itself.

I haven't found a really good case for regular hex shank bits, let alone the Snappys. I'm using a blue and black "Warrior" set that's too big for a pocket and needs to be chopped up to accept larger drill bits. The bit holders tilt out and their friction grip is about right.

-jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Just as well. My brother used to offer us all kinds of advice rearing our three boys, then him and his wife adopted their boy and girl. No advice since.

Pete Keillor

Reply to
Pete Keillor

Those aren't much help on window trim. Great for installing door latches, though.

-jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Checking HD, Tek4 batteries are $12.97. I need to give myself another one for Christmas.

We'll probably have to make our own for the Snappys.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

I'm sure it's quite the humbling experience.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

Um, Steve. How do you drill within 3/8" of the inner window sill with one of those? I have one, BTW, and just used it 2 weeks ago on a project, but can't use it blinds.

Nah, _these_ are for doors:

formatting link
I've never had a bit of trouble when using one of those kits. I did have to purchase a good bimetal saw for installing locks thru metal doors, though.

(I just noticed the Subject. Have we hijacked it, or what? ;)

Reply to
Larry Jaques

If there are no connectors or If the connectors are 'air tight'. They are likely leaking on both ends and in the middle if there is one.

A local tank on the end would be best - have the long hose fill it and then start to use it from the local tank - as it refills but the tank supplies the inrush flows and the big squirts setting the connector onto the valve.

Reply to
Martin Eastburn

Not 20 or more psi-worth, I wouldn't think.

OK, I'll reluctantly give you that one. Local tank = good.

Reply to
Larry Jaques

You have pressure drop only when there's flow.

Reply to
David Lesher

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.