Atlas Model 101 27430 lathe

Wow, what luck! I recently purchased one of those lathes at an auction and was looking for information on it online today and just happened to run across a manual that might help. It's mostly the parts diagram like you've already found but it also has a section on operating the quick change, including the sliding gear.

The link to it is in the first message in this thread:

I'd also recommend you check eBay for an operator's manual.

Another good book to pick up is How To Run A Lathe. There are copies for sale on eBay, plus Lindsay's Books sells a reprint for $7.95.

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

Do a Google search for Atlas Press Co.

They are still around, and will sell you a manual for about the same as you can get one for of Ebay.

The Atlas Co. published a book on operating a metal lathe, similar to the one by South Bend. I cannot lay hands on my copy right now to give you the exact title, but it is a worthwhile book to own, as is the South Bend one. Lee Valley Tools sells a reprint of a forties version of South Bend's book for under $10, an excellent buy.

Cheers Trevor Jones

Keith, Trevor & Bruno; I'm just blown away by your fantastic info. Printing the 8 page manual right now. And certainly will follow up on the links in detail later. There was even a picture of the slide gear!

My next challenge will be to remove the main spindle and chuck from the main bearings so that I can install a new 'V' belt. The old one is torn half way through and could break at any time. I'm aware of horror stories about press and heat fit. Hope I have none of those. Hopefully the manual will have something in that regard. Any suggestions about that? I know that if I do things wrong then the whole thing could be ruined.

Mike

Mike,

Instead of removing the spindle to replace the V-belt, get Fenner link belts. They run smoother too.

-Bruno

snipped-for-privacy@n>>

Hey mike if you get into that lathe and find that the split nuts on the leadscrew are needing to be replaced I have a brand new set that I'll sell for 2/3 of the atlas price including shipping in the US.

Bruno, Fenner - like in this link? Do they really work on the existing V grove wheels? Do they last?

Harbor Freight is supposed to have this - does anybody know if they are the real thing or at least equivalent? That place sells soooo much crap.

Mike

I agree with Bruno. Use a link belt like this one:

But that shouldn't be a problem with your lathe because it has a threaded spindle and the chuck might have a tendancy to unscrew itself if you run it backward.

At any rate, a link belt will get you up and running much more easily for now and you can tackle the spindle and a v-belt later on, after you've had some fun with your new lathe. :-)

Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

Thanks - will keep it in mind. It was owned by a machinist in a prior life and is in good shape so hopefully what I have may be ok. Mike

Is this a one size fits all at 1/2 inch? Looks more like a 3/8 inch eyeballing the wheels. Just put a tape on it - does measure a tight

Ordered the three books suggested - got ripped off with an 'undisclosed handling charge' until last page of checkout form . That was LittleMachineshop.com - are they any good?

Mike

The link belts are also available by the foot from McMaster-Carr. Part

I don't know what size your lathe takes -- 1/2" or 3/8". My 6" Altas takes 3/8", but I think the 10"-12" lathes take 1/2". But I won't swear by it.

As for LittleMachineShop.com -- their handling charge is plain as day when you go to their shipping policy page (link at the bottom of any page). I just did an order with them, decided it was not what I wanted and they said just send it back for credit. Yeah, I'll take the hit on S/H both ways, but that's not their fault. Anyway, I sent them emails with questions and they answer within a day; it's a small outfit but seems to be reliable.

I will guess 1/2" for the time being. Guess McMaster-Carr has roughly the same price?

I typically only read the instructions after all the alternatives have failed . Guess I'm sore from Amazon that has a "free shipping" from hell program that unless you spend a LOT of time OFTEN then you will likely not qualify. Like many of the phony "mail in rebates" etc.

Mike

The belts do have directional arrows on them but for the little bit of reverse running I do it hasn't been a problem. I have a 12" Atlas with threaded chuck so noforceful cutting in reverse :) But it works fine to run it in reverse for metric threads and the toolpost grinder etc. (metric threads meaning to run the cutter back out for the next cut)

Glenn

I don't know for sure but both of mine look like 1/2" and this message agrees, although I can't vouch for the source.

I've only ordered once from them so far but they were great so I wouldn't hesitate to order from them again. I have a Harbor Freight mini mill and they stock ALL replacement parts plus quite a few addons/enhancements.

Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

I forgot to ask, do you have the version with Timken bearings or Babbit bearings? They apparently built both with the same part number.

Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

From a picture of the two versions - I have the Timken bearings ( that could be murder to remove). The Babbitt appear to have clamshell restraints from the picture.

To measure the size of a V belt - it is across from leg to leg and not the depth - correct? I have 1/2" and 3/8" depth so I call it 1/2" belt.

Mike >I forgot to ask, do you have the version with Timken bearings or Babbit

IMHO the Timkens should be better in the long run and I don't think they should be all that difficult to remove... but I haven't done it yet. :-)

Sounds right. Go to

Best Regards, Keith Marshall snipped-for-privacy@progressivelogic.com

"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"

Hi Glenn; Now that the link belt will be used - a remaining issue is the chuck replacement. I have two. One will move each of the three grips independently and the other all together with a single screw. Question: They are threaded on and I have found no lock or restraint for the main spindle. Is there one? What is the correct way before I apply what may be a 'death grip' after say 20 years of inactivity?

Mike