Beadbreaking again

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On the farm we had part of an old Chevy pickup torsion bar with a length of sched 150? pipe to slide over it - with the top foot of the pipe plugged with a chunk of old shafting welded in. We used the pipe portion to drive steel "T" fenceposts and the old torsion bar just happened to fit and worked so-so as a bead breaker. Driving over the wheel with the 44 Massey was faster and easier.(unless it was the front tire of the Massey that was flat)

Reply to
clare
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I made something similar to that. Was not smart enough to make something that bolted to the base of a bumper jack. That looks like it would work. But definately too much money for something easy to make. I ran across a bead breaker similar to the harbor freight 92961 for $ 10 or $15 at a garage sale and bought it. Works well.

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

Yeah, I guess if you had to buy the materials new they might not look all that expensive, but for us discriminating junk shoppers it's over the top.

Reply to
Elliot G

I lay a hardwood pallet skid (2x3 or so and about 36" long) with one end on the ground , the other on the tire with the end just touching the rim . I then drive my truck (well , one of the front wheels) up the "ramp" created , I've never been unable to break a bead this way . Real rough on steel belts though ...

Reply to
Terry Coombs

I have seen people actually drive up on the tire from an angle. Of course, you risk damaging both tires, but I have seen it done successfully by more than one farm boy. Your tractor rear wheel should break most any bead. Just try not to hit the rim, but come as close as you can. And then don't use that tire at Interstate speeds.

Steve

Reply to
SteveB

Depends on the where and how long of it. If I was on a rural farm and it took a couple hours to get to town and back it might be cheaper to do it myself, and have my piece of equipment going again. Given that you might even have to wait around when you got to the tire shop for them to fix your flat too... Time is money. I own a lot of equipment that doesn't justify itself for the cost of the item produced or fixed, but because I can fix something right now... Like having a code reader for my trucks. The dealership will be glad to read the code for me for free, but I really don't want to take the time if its because one of my guys over filled a truck with gas and set off an emissions code when fuel run down the over flow tube. If I have a code reader I can see it and clear it now. Sure a decent code reader costs a hundred bucks, but time spent driving over to the dealership instead of going to a job site is money wasted. If the service writer is busy and I have to wait it can pay for itself in one use.

Reply to
Bob La Londe

Get a 10 foot plank, lay it over the tyre, not on the rim, and drive your tractor over the plank. That should break the bead.

Reply to
alan200

I removed the valve core.

Reply to
stryped

Well, last night tried to use a large c-clamp that I had. One end on the rim, the other screw end on the tire bead. What ended up hapening is the end on the tire bead kept slipping down no matter how hard I tried into the sidewall of the tire. I was afraid of damaging the tire so I stopped. (These are steel belted car tires).

While the clamp was on I did noticed tha the underside of the lip and rim that I could see was rusted pretty good.

Someone mentioned if I run over it with the 8n tires not to run the tire at highway speed. This trailer is not used very often but I would like to be able to use it on the highway. It is a small dual axle I bought this past summer.

Anyhow, I was thinking, could I put the tire between the receiver hitch on my truck and my 3 point arms on the 8n, placing the 3 point arms against the sidewall then lifting the 3 point arms up?

I am not against buying a tool to keep around if it will work. I thought about a harbor freight tire changer but it seems like I read somewhere that people had problems with any tire over 8 inches on them.

Once I get the tire off is it hard to get it back on?

I called Wal Mart, which is the only thing open when I get off work around here. They said they would not mess with a tire with a tube in it.

So I am kind of stuck.

One other note, my dad lives about 20 miles away. He does have a John Deer with a bucket attached. I would just have to kind time to go down there.

Reply to
stryped

I wonder if a car ramp on the tire would work? I dont want to damage the tire though.

Reply to
stryped

This is going on too long. I have been removing tires of all sizes from rims since 1967 on the farm, at home etc. Smaller car size type tires, use a Jack-All under the bumper of a good size vehicle or a piece of heavy machinery. Angle the jack slightly toward the rim. If unsuccessful, tire and rim slightly, try again. If the ground is soft, place a piece of plywood or something firm under the tire. It will eventually come off. On larger tires such as truck or rear tractor tires, place a cutting edge of plow blade on the ground and up to the edge of the rim. Drive up onto this ramp, break the bead. Once again you may have to reposition the steel several times. I have and use a manual bead breaker I use bought from a farm auction. I build one like this when I was 16 many years ago. Not rocket science. Last tractor rear tire bead I broke, I used the BobCat, drove tangent to the tire right up the the rim, pleasantly surprised at how well it came off. BobCat tires are inflated to 60 PSI vs 18 PSI for the rear of a tractor, not much room for flatening when doing a job like this. Lets move on. At last count this will be entry 31 on this topic.

Reply to
Mach1

I made one from a couple of pieces of 2 x 4. I put a four foot piece attached to a stud by a bolt, about three feet above the floor. Then a piece just short of three feet, attached to that "handle" by another bolt, about a foot out from the stud. This makes a lever press. Put the tire bead under the piece hanging down from handle, and put your weight on handle. Worked fine.

Reply to
Don Stauffer

"Mach1" fired this volley in news:bLydnedvKscxCAzUnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@posted.sasktel:

It's Stryped. Once he does break the bead (IF he ever does), he'll start asking questions like, "should I clean the rust off the rim before I re-mount the tire?".

Then, when you say, "Yes", he'll ask, "Welllll... whut shud I YOUSE to clean the rust off?". Then you'll say, "A wire brush.". And he'll ask, "Where to I get a wire brush"... ad nauseum.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Get a can of Coke, and pour it around the bead, with the tire laying flat and let set for a couple hours. Repeat on the other side

Then try to break it.

Gunner

"If the personal freedoms guaranteed by the Constitution inhibit the government's ability to govern the people, we should look to limit those guarantees."

Bill Clinton 1993-08-12

Reply to
Gunner Asch

Gunner Asch fired this volley in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

If that doesn't work pour concentrated muratic acid around the bead. Let it sit for about six hours. Repeat ten times over the next three days. That is _guaranteed_ to have an effect.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

I am at a bit of a loss. I have been able to break just about every kind of tire loose with a farm jack (wagon jack) under the hitch of my truck and the foot of the jack on the tire with the leading edge up against the rim. I just keep jacking, and tapping the foot up under the edge of the rim with a hammer until it pops off. I have even done racing tires on safety rims with this method. Some like motorcycle tires I have placed it on wood 4x4s so as to not press the hub and equipment attached to the hub into the ground and damage it. I just suggested the slide hammer bar because It seemed to me that you had indicted a farm jack wouldn't work for you.

It can be.

Reply to
I R AN IDIOT

Do not take the tire off the rim. Just get both beads loose and then stuff the tube into position. Use vegtable oil on the beads to make them more slippery. Inflate the tube somewhat to get any wrinkles out,and then let the air out. Repeat. Then put enough air in the tube to seat the rims. They will pop on with a lot of force. You still have not put the valve core in. So let the air out again. Then put the valve core in and inflate to the desired pressure.

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

"I R AN IDIOT" fired this volley in news:o3nkl.4809 $ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe11.iad:

No, it WILL be for Stryped. Expect another 60-post thread on "how do I get a tire back on the rim" from him IF he ever gets it off.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

On a lot of passenger car rims you will have a heck of a time stuffing a tube in with both beads in the center of the rim. On many it will be all but impossible.

Reply to
clare

TWO WORDS I HATE! SHOULD AND PROBABLY. AND I LOVE YOU, BUT THAT'S THREE.

STEVE

Reply to
SteveB

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