Boiler Tube Roller Question

Hey all - I've been doing some research on this problem for almost a
year now. I've kind of got a good idea of what I need but let me
describe the problem.
I've successfully converted a 3 horsepower Briggs and Stratton vertical
engine to horizontal use. I did 26.08 hours of test running and it
just kept right on going. The tests were held outdoors in the dead
cold of winter so since part of my conversion involved extending the
intake tube by using a rubber tube, I soon had carb ice issues because
no longer would the warmth of the engine make it to the carb (isolated
by the rubber tube.)
What I need to do is take a piece of tubing which has a 3/4" O.D. and
expand it to 3/4" I.D. to a depth of one inch. Then all I have to do
is hammer the tube over the existing one and presto - I'll have an
extended intake tube. My goal is produce a very simple kit which lets
you take a vertical shaft mower, convert it to horizontal, so that it
can be used in horizontal applications. I'm currently checking ebay
for a minibike frame so I can mount the engine (via a bracket) to it
and test it out further.
Is a boiler or condensor tube roller what I need here? What I need
essentially is a miniature version of a tail-pipe expander.
Thanks for the help and please - if you can assist me here, please
contact me at
Pictures of the conversion are found at
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Just ignore all the other pictures - the ones you wanna see are
engine1.jpg - engine9.jpg
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Two things:
Ya, a tube roller would do it, but a prosser (like an exhaust pipe expander) would also. The best way is the proper socket expander.
The icing issue is best handled with air preheat. Preheat duct to the carb intake to draw air over the cooling fins on the cylinder. wrote:
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Question: I the images you have is that a board taped and bolted to what was/ is a lawn mower blade? I assume you n eeded to have "something" on the crank so it wold work right, but I really question the safety of swinging a piece of wood like know the old saying $hit happens.........I would look for a cast iron flywheel as odds are it has an aluminum flywheel, and also get rid of that blade / board setup and use a disk or perhaps a flywheel from a treadmill if its inertia that this motor needs for your test purpose.
Other than that, its a pretty neat idea, but a kit is gonna have to be pretty cheap as you can buy a consumer grade 3 to 3.5 hp B & S ort Tech engine pretty darn cheap anymore........that is already a horizontal style.
You may have problems finding a small tube expander, but I think they are made but they as well as the larger ones are pretty pricey. Perhaps making a tool to swedge the steel tube outwards to expand its inside diameter would work better, but its still going to need a good seal so perhaps a boot made of hose or such over the joint will be needed. Just a tiny air leak and they don't really work all that well.... I stilldoubt you will get sufficient heat transfer in really cold conditions to elimiate your icing conditions, but you never know. Neat idea anyhow........I give it a 8.5 on the ingenuity scale! Visit my website:
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expressed are those of my wife, I had no input whatsoever. Remove "nospam" from email addy.
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Go to a heavy truck/equipment overhaul place & see if you can find some large ball bearings in their trash box ---some electric motors go this big too--Press a 3/4" ball down into your tube,then knock it out---If I remember right you get a few thou oversize!!
Reply to
Jerry J. Wass
I'm swinging a piece of pallet wood and it's duct-taped to keep it from exploding. My first one did. Noticed I didn't stand in the path of the swinging piece of wood due to the angle of the photos. This was outside behind where I work and situated "just-so" so that if it blow again, the pieces would fly elsewhere. I didn't have to have a load on it but wanted at least a little something to make the engine work. My test with the wood is over anyway. I'm looking for a minibike project to mount this engine too. It's surprising how few parts are involved in the conversion. I can easily beat the price of a new B&S horizontal shaft engine which let's face it - in the used market, is harder to come by than old vertical shaft engines.
The kit would have to be cheap yes - at the very least, I can sell plans on ebay. I've heard so many people down-play the idea of converting an engine but it's funny - people will buy a kit thinking it will save them money over buying a new engine. In some cases it will and other cases it won't. The fact that I've proven it can be done answered tons of questions I had. Just tell me I can't do it and then watch me go to work. :-)
I've found plenty of them - just didn't know if they would work or not.
RTV and a hammer. Worse comes to worse - a couple slits and a hose clamp. :-)
I agree but better than nothing. If the engine was being used hard and throttled up and down, it would probably produce the heat needed to prevent icing. The stock setup though just uses an o-ring in the carb that the intake tube presses into - probably not much thermal transfer there anyway.
Thanks for the comments!
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Hey that's a pretty cool idea! I'll give that serious consideration - definiltey cheaper than a boiler roller. Although, if I make a ton of kits, I'll need something a bit faster than that. :-) It takes a good amount of expansion to do 3/4" O.D. to 3/4" I.D. - generally the thickness of the tube determins the difficulty level.
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Greetings Erin, If you have a lathe this will work. Probably. It works on brass. Anyway, mount a bearing that's 1/2" to 5/8" O.D. on the end of a 1/2 square steel rod. Put the tube in the collet in your lathe and mount the bearing assembly in the tool post. Spin the tube and touch the bearing to the inside so that it starts spinning. Pull it out of the tube and use the cross slide to move the bearing out. Then just force it into the tube and it will expand. The radius on the outer race of the bearing will make a nice transition from the new dia. to the old. I've done this on 1" O.D. 1/16" wall brass tube. It moved surprisingly easy. I imagine that steel or aluminum tube will work also. If using 6061-T6 aluminum tube it might need to be annealed. ERS
Reply to
Eric R Snow
Will the splash oiling work properly in the horz. position and how do you plan on changing the oil when the engine is mounted to something permanently that can't be tipped over to get the oil out.?
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If it is metal tubing you might be able to expand a one of item by freezing water inside or using a mandrel and a hammer like a snarling iron on the inside. A bolt with the head filed round would be the tool to make. Pound on the shaft of the bolt to transfer the force to the head inside the tube working around the inside. Might involve a bit of annealing too. If the tubing is some kind of rubber or plastic try dipping in in boiling water and opening a pair of needlenose pliers inside.
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