Brazing band saw blades

To those that have 'em broken and/or have difficulties obtaining
right width/teeth/composition in required length:
you can easily braze (silver soldere) blades yourself, for real
cheap (a little HomeDepot butane torch, some brazing silver and flux).
Results are excellent - in terms of appearance and strength.
So if you have broken a blade, or looking a size that is not readily
available, brazing is the way to go.
File the ends so that they taper a bit and overlap over 3/16-1/4
distance.
Clamp down one end, apply some flux ($.001 worth), clamp down the
other end on top, so that tapered ends overlap, snick in (between) a
1/4 strip of .005" brazing strip ( $0.01), heat up till silver flows,
file off excess (after it
cools down), anneal a bit ( warm up to before silver melts, back the
flame away slowly, repeat 2 times) and you're done.
You can use a piece of scrap aluminum/steel and couple of smaller
C-clamps
to clamp the blade on, or make yer own jig. Make sure to file off an
identation
under the overlapping portion of the blade, so that you can heat it
up.
keep the size of the jig down (it will conduct the heat away from the
joint).
Now - to make your own size, buy an oversized blade from
Sears/HomeDepot/Lowes, reduce it in size and braze. You might
want to reduce it so that the old joint is cut out. To break/cut
the blade: cut a groove with a few moves of a sharp file edge (tapered
files are best for that) and then snap the blade at the groove. Be
careful
as steel is tempered and will try to spring up on you. Buy next
closest
large length blade: if you need 62", get 64 1/2" (not a 111"). Do
explore
making 2 blades out of oversized one, to save even more.
For advanced moderate-to-heavy setups, welder might be a better
choice.
Also, if you go through blades quickly (as in wear them off), buying
blade
in bulk might be the way to go.
All of the above applies to both metal and wood cutting blades. I
didn't invent
the process :) - just refreshing the subject .
Reply to
Rashid Karimov
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Nice tip, will have to try this.
Reply to
Richard J Kinch
How would spot welding go ? File to fit first, then weld ? Will the repair need to be annealed ?
I have 3 broken ( wood ) blades so far, all different teeth pitch, but can only shorten them by about 12mm, which is one repair, so cannot afford to experiment with blades at $15 each. If spot welding is no good, then I will silver solder. I have just lashed out on a metal bandsaw, much better than a dropsaw and QUIET and no sparks.
I was cutting rusted bolts off a rotary cultivator using a cutting disc on an angle grinder and when I took the muffs off I heard - crackle, crackle and it started to get a bit warm - the dried grass about a metre away had been ignited by the sparks - had to go get water in buckets as the hose does not reach. Today was the first major bush fire of the season, about 70 fire trucks attended, main road closed for about 3 hours with about a 10 mile diversion to get home this afternoon. Gotta mount my water tank on a sled for the tractor to pull around, bought a petrol fire pump last Tues, when the tank is full I have about 8 minutes supply (1000 litres). Alan in beautiful Golden Bay, Western Oz, South 32.25.42, East 115.45.44 GMT+8 VK6 YAB ICQ 6581610 to reply, change oz to au in address
Reply to
alan200
Do you own a pressure washer? Preferably one of the industrial 13HP to 18HP units with some serious output? And 25 to 100 meters of high pressure hose on a reel? Might be better to take that out with you on welding/grinding jobs.
They did a study somewhere in Great Britain that hit the Discovery Channel in the USA, where a high pressure low volume water stream from a pressure washer is better at putting out grassland fires than a flood from a conventional fire hose, and a lot less water is used.
Seems that when you have enough hose and can walk over close to the base of the fire with the pressure washer nozzle (protective clothing strongly suggested) the high pressure water gets down into the base of the burning duff quickly and puts it out fast and final.
Where you would still need the full 1000L tank and the conventional fire pump is where you can't get the nozzle close to the work, and have to lob a monitor stream of bulk water at the fire. That, or you just lit your shop building on fire... ;-0
Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

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