Sharpening Band Saw Blades

I know. I know. Its just not worth your time, but I have to wait a couple days for some new blades to arrive, and I have stock to take down.
Its my own fault. I bought a new 7x12 HF bandsaw and I love it. Its an order of magnitude better than my old 4x6. In fact think its better on average than most HF tools I have bought over the years. Its not a throw away tool.
Anyway, the plane carbon steel blade on it has worked great. I knew I needed to order some better quality M42 bimetal blades sooner or later, but the stock blades was doing a great job of whizzing through aluminum and mild steel. The other day I needed to make some square U-bolts because I needed to finish a project, and nobody who was open had anyway. I made most of them out of 304 stainless and the saw worked ok, but I had to make the last couple out of 4140QT. (Its what I had on hand.) The teeth on the blade aren't pointy anymore. LOL. I've got to break down some more stock, but I've got the old 4x6 set up semi permanently as a small vertical now. (Its got a bimetal blade in it.)
So in a pinch what would you use to make the teeth on that carbon steel blade sharp again? I was thinking a fiber cutoff wheel in a rotary hand piece would be able to shave the back side of the teeth moderately fast, but those little wheels don't last long when doing real work. I hit it with a file just to see and the blade is pretty hard. It would dull a file long before the file sharpened the whole blade.
I know. I know. Just go convert the little saw back to horizontal for now and wait for my blades to arrive for the bigger saw.
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FWIW, a sharpening shop regrinds my 16' long sawmilll bands for $8. -jsw
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s ago, inOn Tue, 8 May 2018 09:26:53 -0700, Bob La Londe

Years ago, in _Fine Woodworking_ magazine or one of their books, was a description of a simple setup that involved a narrow cutoff-type wheel mounted in a bench grinder, with a simple guide and a finger to step the blade along, one tooth at a time. It was very fast. You skip teeth and then re-set the angle of the guide (it was just C-clamped together, IIRC) to grind the alternate teeth.
I used the setup once, to convert a cross-cut wood blade to a rip saw. A lot of experienced woodworkers prefer the straight-across rip saw blade for all wood cutting.
--
Ed Huntress



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