OK, I know this is a lousy question. But... There's a guy with a Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC who wants $190 for it. He got a bunch of welders from some kind of town or school storage facility. No welding leads, untested because he doesn't have 220V. Can't be returned, either.
I've seen these things on eBay, known good, in the $250-300 range plus shipping. But, of course, this thing's unknown. What's your feeling?
Have you got $190 you have no other use for that you won't miss when it's gone - ie, you could toss it into a forge and watch it burn up, no sweat?
No test/no return if you get it to your house and find out that it's no worky (and that's why it was in storage) is a bad gamble. Anyone with US grid electricity coming into their house "has 220V" - anyone buying and selling welders ought to have an outlet hooked up.
Push this deal away with an 11 foot pole and wait for something a bit more trustworthy IMHO - test before buy or return if fails your testing.
If he had a car for sale, but wouldn't let you start it, would you pay him top dollar?
Not a lousy question. Happens all the time. I once was looking at a Thunderbolt. The guy said he didn't have a 220 plug, but I noticed he had an electric dryer there in the garage. I asked about using that outlet. He said his wife wouldn't let him do that because he would have to unplug her dryer, and the cord on the welder wasn't long enough to get out of the garage, and his wife wouldn't allow welding in the garage. I offered to go home and get my 50' extension cord. Then he said he couldn't unplug the dryer in any case. I walked. $190 is top price for a used Thunderbolt. And untested and no return makes it outside the realm of even being considered.
Leave your # and tell him to call you if he hasn't sold it. If he calls, tell him you will take it, test it, and if it is good, you will give him $150. Period.
hey-hey !!!...... I just got one of those thundrbolt AC/DC, with a crank on the top. it works awsome, however mine came with leads, and a welding hood for $150. I've been looking for an AC/DC machine , but new it cost around $325-350. it is basicly a transformer, there is not much that can go wrong with it, other than a cooling fan goes out.
A couple of thoughts: Even if you plug the welder in, you won't be able to test it without cables. So, add $50 to $75 for the cables (I guess). Then, if it doesn't work, you're out even more money.
One mental test I often apply: if the situation were reversed, and I were the one selling the welder, would I refuse to take it back? No way. I would want the buyer to get value for his money, so I would say, "Bring it back for a refund if it doesn't work." Also, I would want to make the deal attractive, so I wouldn't place obstacles in his way. My conclusion is this seller knows the welder is no good, and is looking for a sucker.
Well, Tuesday we will only be handling the down payment. Can you bring $500,000 in small bills in brown shopping bags? You understand, of course, you won't be taking actual posession of the bridge until you make the final payment. At that time, we will provide a certified bridge inspector free of charge. We guarantee that the bridge will be approved by our inspector.
BTW, after Tuesday, I expect to be out of town for a long long time............ But I will leave you a forwarding post office box, and the name of a local associate who will be around monthly to collect the payment. And the interest. Please be timely as late payments are dealt with in a very severe manner by the collector.
I will send you postcards from time to time so you will know where I am. Or actually where I have been.
I forgot to tell you. I will throw in a used Thunderbolt welder. No guarantees, though. If it doesn't work, they make great boat anchors, or anchors for whatever/whoever you want to go to the bottom and not come up. We use them a lot in our business.
PS: Don't worry. We will load the welder in your truck and not attatch it to your body parts. No need to bring a swim suit.
Sounds like a scam. But there are a couple of possible good outcomes.
1) you get it a LOT cheaper than that by careful negotiation. Even if it's not working, it may be a simple fix. I often buy busted stuff from people who don't know what they're doing. Busted stuff from experts is typically REALLY BUSTED and even they couldn't fix it.
2) The thing may work, but he's just too lazy to test it. I've got some killer deals in such situations. Take the lid off and look around. Take an ohm-meter and check the transformer and diodes. If it's not too electronic, can you run it off 120V? It won't weld right, but it should make sparks. Take along some borrowed cables and a jury-rigged plug adapter for 120V. If it has an electronic controller, this is probably a bad idea. Maybe someone can give advice on this specific model. Also be prepared in case the cord is cut off. If it's electronic take along a 120V-240V step-up transformer. Should be able to do some very low current welding that way. The bad news is that if it does appear to be welding, the price won't be nearly as flexible. Skew your testing to stuff that he won't be able to interpret. Mumble, shake your head and sigh a lot. ;-) When you're all done, take out the cash money you're willing to offer and put it in his hand. Don't say anything...just wait for a response. More killer deals have been ruined by talking than anything else. Cash feels REEL GOOD in your hand. Let it feel good. Use the time to pack it up for transport as if the offer was accepted. If you have to negotiate upward, do it while backing toward your car. A sense of impending loss is always good...as long is it's not you who's feeling it.
If you don't have to drive too far, a few test items and a lowball offer may be something to try. Don't get caught up in the frenzy. Your feet were made for walking... mike