Chainsaw recommendations

Reply to
RoyJ
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Reply to
RoyJ

Reply to
RoyJ

Don't forget some decent anti-vibration gloves. The vibration will do a number on your hands especially if you have carpal tunnel to begin with. The vibration at idle from the larger saws seems to be worse than the high speed vibration.

Also don't forget the most important safety equipment - a clear head and common sense. Think about what will happen if the saw kicks, a branch snaps, etc. Will you loose your balance / footing? Will the tree fall on you? Know your escape route(s) before you fell a tree. If you're tired call it a day before you get careless.

I thought those were just for breaking into cars...

I've not needed the wedges, but I've had a back hoe on hand to assist when I needed to drop a tree in a direction where it wouldn't readily cooperate.

Absolutely. The service and support you will get from a professional shop vastly exceed any from a home improvement place. The saw will cost more, but largely because it will be better quality, not so much from profit margins. Shindaiwa is only found at pro shops as well.

Absolutely. That monster saw with the 24"+ bar and giant engine may look cool, but unless you're a pro logger it will just wear you out trying to control it. A nice 48cc saw with an 18" bar will quite readily drop and chop a 24" dia tree, it's just a bit slower.

Well, I certainly qualify as an occasional user, and I've had no problems with a non safety chain. The saw came with one standard, but the folks at the dealer said I wouldn't like it and to just be careful with the non safety chain. They were 100% correct, the non safety chain performance is vastly superior.

If all you are doing is occasional trimming around your 1 ac. property, a "junk" saw will probably be fine. Anything more than that and you should get something in the professional line.

A friend has a Shindaiwa 360 with a 16" bar and it's a very nice saw as well. I had a moderate sized project so I went a size or two larger, looking particularly at the weight of the saw. The 488 was only a couple pounds heavier than the 360 for a good deal more capacity, the next size up was like an 8# jump.

Never heard that bit about slacking the chain at the end of the day. Never had any problems either, perhaps it's more of a factor on larger bars.

I always try to do a basic cleaning at the end of the days use. An annual service is no substitute for daily maintenance.

Exactly. If my saw goes out, I go with it.

Never did the file each time. I don't use it enough to worry much. I've got four chains I rotate through and when one gets dull enough I just have my shop sharpen it for the few $.

I just have my shop grind them. Difficult to care about the $15/yr it ends up costing.

I don't think you'll find a pro-grade saw without all those features. I also like Shindaiwa's post-clutch chain oiler that doesn't pump oil onto the ground if you leave it idling for a minute.

I keep two small round rubbermaid food containers in my saw case, one labeled "sharp" and one labeled "dull". Nothing worse than trashing your only chain on a Sunday afternoon just after you started the project. An no matter how careful you are you can always hit an embedded nail in a tree.

Should probably check / replace the clutch as well if you're replacing the drive sprocket.

Pete C.

Reply to
Pete C.

My Stihl has always taken five or six pulls since day one and sometimes dies for no reason.

Reply to
Dave

That's strange. Both my Stihl and my Husqvarna start on the second pull, and only die when they're out of fuel. Still don't have a preference between the two, they're both great. If your stihl is acting up, it might be time for a tuneup.

Reply to
Dave Hinz

If you want the best, go for a Stihl. But recognize that all Stihls are not equal. The even-numbered saws are pro models, and priced accordingly. The odd-numbered saws are cheaper, but not worth it, as they are geared toward the homeowner market (in this case, "made in USA" is a bad thing, as the good stuff comes from Germany). My Stihl MS200T will fell most anything you can throw at it, if you are determined and patient. It can take a 16" bar, which is big enough to cut a 30" diam. trunk if you know what you're doing (if you don't know what you're doing, stay away from 30" takedowns no matter which saw you''re using). For you (I assume you won't be climbing with this saw), the MS 200 rear-handle is a better choice (better control and ergonomics).

Husky also makes a great saw, but can be harder to keep up. Around here, there's only one shop that can maintain them. I stopped using mine when one shop closed and for awhile there was nobody who could get parts or do repairs. Check around to see what the local guys handle, as others have suggested.

But consider a nice, small Echo. A CS-3400 (or whatever they call it these days) carries a 2-year warranty. In all likelihood, you won't care, because these saws are realiable as anything and easy to maintain (a lot of the cheap brands have terrible designs, requiring complicated operations just to adjust or replace the chain). You won't have the power of a Stihl, but it doesn't sound like you need it. Less power can be a good thing (think reduced kickback potential). All at half the cost of a Stihl. Even a lot of pros use them, tho Stihl is the choice of most for the bigger saws.

good luck, Keith Babberney ISA Certified Arborist

Reply to
Treedweller

The pros don't seem to think so. The guys from Des Moines used a 14" or 16" saw to clear the 8" to 10" branches from the 8KV line behind my house. Weight counts with extended usage, unnecessary weight is not a plus. The guy mentioned something about "pain pills tonight". They'd been working 16-hour shifts for several days.

When I've looked in the trucks of arborists, I usually see a 20 and a couple of 16's, sometimes a 14. They seldom use the 20's unless the size of the work requires it.

Saw one in a truck today that must have been a 36", maybe a 48". Husq.

Reply to
Don Foreman

Pretty much for any job, the smallest chainsaw that would do it, is best. Sitting on some tree with a big chainsaw is not really very much fun. I tried that and did not like it. Now I have a small electric chainsaw. Felled an approximately 12" thick tree with it. For really big jobs, I hire pros.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus4243

HEY mine does that also! Damn west germans didn't know how to make a chainsaw. I can't wait for it to die so i can replace it with another new lighter Stihl, but it is only 20 years old, so i'll just keep warming it up by the fire before starting it.

laz

Reply to
Laszlo Nemeth

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Note the one-hand grip.

jw

Reply to
jim.wilkins

McCullough quite making anything that quality assoicated with it over

25 or more years ago.......

============================================== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked! "The original frugal ponder" ~~~~ } ~~~~~~ } ~~~~~~~ }

Reply to
~Roy

============================================== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked! "The original frugal ponder" ~~~~ } ~~~~~~ } ~~~~~~~ }

Reply to
~Roy

HUSKY, HUSKY HUSKY or a HUSKY in no special order......

I have 9 Husky;'s and I can bet I can go start anyone of them in less than 3 pulls no matter how long they have set. Srtihls are great saws, but all of my Stihls will give fits if unused for a period of time, and they get cantankerous......

Jonsered is yet another good saw, and its built almost like the Husky.....which is also parent company of Jonsered. Husky, Jonsered and Poulan are owned by Electrolux Corp......... Poulans are nothing but junk to day, even the so called Poulan Pros. ONe time a good Poulan Pro would run with the top dogs, but no so anymore.

Echo makes a nice saw in the size range a 3000 or 3400 series light, got good power and can take up to a 18 inch bar, comes with a 16 IIRC and the price is right.......I use Echo 3400 top handle saws in tree removals and we use them pretty darn hard, and most if not all have been dropped and thrown around numerous times and they all work just fine..........Side by side and comparable models/sizes etc, you will find the Husky saw will not vibrate anywhere near as much as any other saw, and they do have the best anti-vibration system going........I can use any of my Husky saws for 8 or more hours and not have a problem, but any size Stihl will make my left arm numb as well as my fingers in a few hours of use..Not good. Stihls seem to have a higher reving engine to get the power out of than husky does, but then that also depends on the models.......

I prefer to get a saw that will not loose its guts if a larger bar is installed, so I usually tend to buy a larger saw and fit a smaller shorter bar to them if need be. Easier to fit a bar of shorter length than try and run a saw with a bigger bar/ chain than it wa designed to use.

If you feel comfortable with a chainsaw, try some commercial grade chain instead of the crap sold in HOme Depot and other big box stores...The best chain in my opinion is Carlton brand which is a spin off of Oregon brand chain. Carlton will out cut and out last as far as sharpness is concerned any day over Oregon chain. Same for their bars. Another good bar is a Windsor, but odds are your gonna get whatever chain and bar comes factory installed on the saw you get.

Don't forget some bucking wedges (plastic or aluminum) as your gonna need them sooner or later, and odds are you'll need them and ot have them. They are cheap and considered expendable items......I never cut wood without having a few with me.

I would recomend a Husky in the 45 to 55 model sizes as they can pull a chain on a 18 inch bar and come with a 16 inch bar. NIcely balanced and dependable.

Last count I had a total of 17 chainsaws with the majority being Husky..Followed by Stihl which I have 5 of, and the rest are Echo, except for one old Poulan 3700 which is over 25 years old and runs like new. Its used mainly for dirty work with a carbide tipped chain and refuses to die.

I also have one hydraulic powered chainsaw which is attached to my hydraulics on my log splitter as its inevitablke that yo get a log just a hair too long on occasion. I used to use a electric up until I got the hydraulic saw.......Awesome saw and since the splitter is already running its just like picking up any air or hydraulic powered tool and doing what needs doing......No extension cords to fall over or big gas saws......just a nice lite heavy duty hydraulic saw in its holder on the end of the log splitter.

============================================== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked! "The original frugal ponder" ~~~~ } ~~~~~~ } ~~~~~~~ }

Reply to
~Roy

I have a Husky 20" 50 that has done Fine duty(more than 17 years so far). But I suggest that you get a STIHL MS 192 T - It is small - 6 pounds. Meant for bucket trimming and on a rope cutting. An arborist saw.

Either Husqvarna or STIHL in my book. Martin Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

SteveB wrote:

Reply to
Martin H. Eastburn

When you are trimming branchs..even an electric will work. Which is why arborists tend to keep trimming saws on hand. But they dont cut trees worth a shit.

Now you can have a saw you can trim with..or a saw you can trim with AND cut down a tree. If you can afford only one..which will it be?

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner

Reply to
Gunner

I cut down about 12" thick tree with an electric chainsaw.

i

Reply to
Ignoramus4243

Post script: I noted today that the saws the power company guys used were Stihl 027's with 16" bars. The application was sawing off poles. They were installing a new pole. They planted the new one next to the old one. They first moved the (hot) 8000 volt line to the top of the new pole. Then they sawed off the old pole down to the level of the

220 distribution wires. Moved the insulator stack and wires from old pole to new. Sawed off the pole down to the xfmr. Dropped old xfmr, sawed off old pole down to the cable company's box. Hung new xfmr (325 lb, 25 KVA) on new pole. Loosely lashed the cable company's box to new pole with ground wire, sawed off 6" of the old pole and let the cable box, pole piece and all, hang on the lashing. LOL! Perhaps the power company guys don't care to do the cable company's work for them?

Then one guy gave the old pole a poosh and it fell over. It was rotted at the base. Whoa! This pole had supported an 8000 volt line!

They bucked the pole up with same 027 Stihl 16" saw. Tossed the debris and detritus in the truck and then it was Miller time.

Those linemen were a hoot. Got an interesting view of the power company thru the eyes of the guys out there doing the work that keeps our lights on. Not grumbly or bitchy, these guys are pros. I doubt if dummys get to work with hot 8000 volt lines. Some of the dry/wry satirical humor and observations were wonderful.

Cutting note that most will already know: they started with a cut from one side about 1/3 thru, then made another cut slightly above it thru to slightly past it. No pinch, no loss of control. They then just bumped the stub a bit, the remaining wood sheared and the stub fell right where they wanted it -- could have easily been belayed with a line if safe drop zone was limited in extent. It's SOP, described in the instructions that some with some chainsaws.

I now know why neighbor Dan didn't want any help. He doesn't know WTF he's doing and would rather work alone than accept a helping hand twice offered. Oh well! He was bucking his leaning down tree, cut only from the top clear thru -- which resulted in a resounding CRAAAAKKKKK... WHUMP! It worked, he got away with it, but it could have punted him to Fargo if it'd had some crazy grain or unsuspected damage. Metro boy lucked out.

Reply to
Don Foreman

True of a number of once-respected brands, too bad. Ya gotta keep paying attention. Ariens once made really good mowers and snowblowers. Not any more. There are many other examples.

I regard with healthy skepticism anything sold by Home Depot or Wal-Mart, maybe Lowe's as well. They all carry some excellent stuff at attractive prices, also drive some namebrand vendors into mediocrity with pricepoint pressure they exert with volume purchasing power and threat.

Reply to
Don Foreman

Not true at all . They made thousands of boat anchors . Heavy and guaranteed to sink to the bottom every time :-) Ken Cutt

Reply to
Ken Cutt

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