Chainsaw recommendations

Sissy..... Ken.

Buy from the local dealer if possible. And you are planning on cutting what with it ?

Martin Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

SteveB wrote:

Just before we sold and moved out of Redwood country, a storm hit and a large (24" at 4') oak decided to fall across my 45 degree down slope driveway. The power company paid for the extraction of it - most of it anyway - as it was 'posed danger to their pole' (key concept there!) The skilled person on the bucket truck used an arbor saw. He cut limbs and trunks with that beauty. They swung logs over and down into a dumping area

- not to roll or bust the thin blacktop on the road. The tree was hung up through two redwoods that both provided swing ties and props.

Only wish I have taken a movie of the whole process.

Martin Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

Gunner wrote:

Wood?

"SteveB" skrev i en meddelelse news:PW3_e.81984$DW1.77009@fed1read06...

The longer the chain bar is, the less control you will have over the saw... If you arent cutting anything bigger than 8", you could easily do with a 15 or 16" bar..

Bigger engines usually have more power, but also weigh more... I regularly cut pine, beech, birch and oak upto 12" or so with a 40CC, 15" Husquarna... I have bigger saws, but I prefer the smallest one due to the handling and reduced weight..

I have 3 Husquarna saws and love them.... one of them is 15 years old.. Zero problems, starts every time. I bought a cheapo Mc Cullogh to use around the house ( I usually cut the trees in 3 or 6 ft sections and cut them up for firewood outside the house ).. It died after a few weeks of non intensive cutting..

Not a problem with the Husquarna saws here.. The local farm supply store has a good selection of spare parts..

For 8" firewood I'd get the 16"... If you decide you need a longer bar, you can just replace the bar and chain for something longer.. Most pro saws will let you do this..

No: It will weigh more Yes: It has more power

For 8" firewood you shouldnt need the extra power aslong as your chain is sharpened regularly..

IOW: You decide :-)

/peter

As pitch of the chain increases or decreases so does the width of the cutters, as well as the spacing out of the cutters.

============================================== Put some color in your cheeks...garden naked! "The original frugal ponder" ~~~~ } ~~~~~~ } ~~~~~~~ }

On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 15:32:06 GMT, with neither quill nor qualm, Gunner quickly quoth:

Mount it in a saw vise or whatever you have available to keep the section of teeth rigid.

Put on your magnifying glasses and check the set (if any) and cutting angle of each tooth. You'll see that they alternate since they're crosscutting saws.

Use a small file (diamond file for hardened teeth) and take a few strokes toward the cutting edge. Again, working toward the edge, stone the wire-edge burrs off the side of the cutting edge with a fine stone, emery cloth, or a diamond plate/file. Watch your angles at all times or roundover will getcha.

You'll be done in no time at all.

Here's a good link with pictures for standard saws. The concept is similar for the odd-shaped teeth in the crosscuts.

Right. An 8" mill bastard file will take care of those.

Right - a 47" 4' measurement Maple I guess. A 20" purple Heart rose wood tree. A stand of bamboo.

Not.

I have cut from Post Oak to mighty Coastal Redwood (on the ground already) Mid-pacific Ironwood, and sadly a 120 year old Holly. Have some of the Holly on this desk, wife's desk, and living room. Redwood - in the backyard - brought it with me. Madrone is the toughest to cut - it splits and twists as it is cut. So saying wood indicates you are in trouble :-)

Martin

Martin Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net NRA LOH, NRA Life NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

SteveB wrote:

"Martin H. Eastburn" wrote

Firewood and dead limbs. Mostly dead downed juniper, quakies, and a little pine. Nothing over 8"-10" in diameter because I can't lift a lot anymore since two guys with masks took a stainless steel chain saw to my sternum. Not sure of the brand name of saw they used.

Sorry I was not specific in answering your question, but at that moment, I did not catch exactly what you were asking, and why. Hence, the question mark after Wood.

Steve

The new stihls seem pretty smooth and well put together.

Let the record show that Gunner wrote back on Wed, 28 Sep 2005 11:03:36 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking :

Sounds like the preferred tools to have Someone Else(tm) use. Some Else(tm): greatest labor saving device known to man or woman. Next time there is a big or messy project, have Someone Else(tm) do it!

:-)

pyotr

Maybe they've made some design changes.... I know the older Stihl saws would cut like a banshee - ya just couldn't seem to stall 'em out. And throw chips like chunks of 2 x 4's. Awesome cutting - it's was always just a problem with the shaking.... A friend had one where the rubber bushings were worn somewhat - and every time you tried to rock the saw into the cut - the frame of the saw would "move" up until it shorted out the top of the spark plug cap. Junk ! Ken.

Indeed. Also a large Roundtuit is handy, particularly with the bowsaw.

Gunner

"Pax Americana is a philosophy. Hardly an empire. Making sure other people play nice and dont kill each other (and us) off in job lots is hardly empire building, particularly when you give them self determination under "play nice" rules.

Think of it as having your older brother knock the shit out of you for torturing the cat." Gunner

Am I the only one who has used (or even heard of) Shindaiwa?

They have dealers across the country and I've seen plenty of their products in use by professionals. Their rubber flap drum brushes seem pretty popular with pro landscapers.

Pete C.

Ah, yes.

Lack of maintenance = saw is junk. logic, indeed.

Can't speak of their chainsaws, but the string trimmer I bought has served flawlessly for 8-9 years. Afriend of mine was going to fix her trimmer. I told her to get a real one and toss the pos she had been using. I let her use my Shindaiwa and she was very pleasantly impressed that it did not bog down like hers had done while taking heavier cuts than she was used to. The time spent on project was another happy thing.

michael

Correct.... He should have put brand new vibration isolation bushings all throughout his saw (about 6 of them, and about an hours work) every single time before he would start it. Even between truckloads.... That may have prevented it..... but then again, maybe not..... Ken.

When I put a Sandvik brush blade on my T270 trimmer it will go through

2" dia saplings in a fraction of a second. I found this when clearing some brush. I was swinging along through relatively light brush and wasn't being careful of the 2" dia 12' tall sapling there since I was going to get the saw to take it down after. Swung towards it, expecting the blade to bounce off, instead stood there kind of shocked as it went straight through. Came out of my shock a second later in time to duck out of the way as the sapling came crashing down. This was even after I had caught the blade on some rusty wire fencing mixed in with raspberry bushes and dulled it considerably.

Pete C.

Begin meandering, only marginally related response: The safety chain is mostly just geared to stupid proof (as much as you can with a friggin' chain saw) the machine. The links have risers added that keep you from cramming the saw in too quickly, and reduce the tendency for the saw to kick back if you bump the nose into something. But you can still pinch the chain, and it does kick back enough to get your face. That said, if you're going significantly faster with the standard chain you might want to check and make sure that you're not pushing the saw too fast. Standard chain does cut faster, but make sure you are within the margin. Properly sharpened blades self-feed a bit and you can just go with that to get proper speed. Bearing down indicates a problem.