Collet closer


I won this in a liquidation auction (almost all prices sucked).
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This lot 1258 includes a coller closer.
My question is, how nard is it to adapt it to my Clausing 6913 lathe?
What is it missing, just the nose piece?
i
Reply to
Ignoramus22564
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Looks like the block that the link attached to is missing too, but that's an easy part to make. That's a J.F.K. closer if I'm not mistaken.
It should adapt to your Clausing with minimum hassle, so long as the tube is the right length. I made a tube extension once for a friend that scored a deal on a closer with a tube around 2.5" too short. Not a terribly big deal if you are comfortable with single point threading. Just be sure to Loctite the extension into the main tube!
Jon
Reply to
Jon Anderson
*Two* nose pieces -- the one which provides the taper for closing the collets, and the one which protects the OD of the L-00 nose, and provides force to pop the taper adaptor out when it is time to go back to chucks.
Aside from this, you will probably need to make an adaptor for the back end of the spindle which looks like a gear which has had its teeth turned mostly off -- a series of square bottomed notches around the OD which engage an lever which prevents the tube from rotating relative to the spindle (unless you already have this on your lathe, I forget what the photos showed). You will also need to make something which that link pivots on and which is firmly mounted to the headstock casting to give something to pivot the lever on.
And -- the most important possible problem is whether the tube is the right length for your spindle. I took one from a 2-1/4x8 spindle nose and moved it to a L-00 spindle (same machine, swapped spindles too) and had to make an extension tube which screwed into the existing tube, added about an inch to the drawtube length, and provided the proper threads for the collet at the other end. Loctited it into the original tube.
Good Luck, DoN.
Reply to
DoN. Nichols
I forgot to address this part. It's not clear from the photo if he has the right pieces, but the J.F.K. closer uses a pin parallel to the spindle axis that engages holes on the side of the adapter.
Jon
Reply to
Jon Anderson
Of course, that's assuming it -is- a J.F.K. closer, I can't quite tell....
Jon
Reply to
Jon Anderson
When you get the MT4.5 adaptor and a L00 nose protector you likely will get it to work.
Here is the problem. I'm using a home made drawbar set up and it works but there is no place left for a micrometer stop for accurate turning to length.
I'd be better off with a nose mounted collet chuck if I had the money to buy a set up. That would leave room on the bed for the micrometer stop.
I have a 6903 so we are talking about the same situation at the spindle end.
Wes
-- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
Reply to
Wes
Wes, I'm lost. My micrometer stop/2" travel indicator clamp to the ways and work against the side of the apron. They don't interfere at all with my homemade handwheel collet closer. Got a pic?
Pete Keillor
Reply to
Pete Keillor
There is a part that normally goes on the ass end of the spindle, that "mates" with the collet closer body and provides for adjustment and locking.
You also will likely need to make an extension for the draw tube itself Note its threaded 1.245-20...and you can then silver solder the adapter to the original after a good cleaning..
I cant say what is missing, probably the nose piece. All my lathes have a 5C spindle nose except for the 1500 Clausing and I dont use 5C in it.
I do have some...some 5C adapters for various lathes..but until you find out what your spindle nose is.....shrug
I also have some collet closer bodies and tubes that dont fit my lathes but can be fit to many others.
Gunner
Reply to
Gunner Asch
I'll post one tomorrow. I have the 4 jaw on atm with some work chucked.
I have to go in to work early tomorrow so I'm hitting the rack right after I eat dinner.
Do you have a picture of your setup? The email address is a real one. GMail must have some awesome spam filters! I've recieved one piece of spam in a month. Of course it might that be no one can get to me.
Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
Reply to
Wes
Yep!
Yep! Or just Loctite it. Easier to undo if you get a lathe which it fits properly.
His is a MT 4-1/2 for the Clausing L-00 spindle.
Useful.
Enjoy, DoN.
Reply to
DoN. Nichols
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I think that the stop he is talking about needing is the workpiece stop which fits inside the collets, not the carriage travel stop. The stop in question threads into the internal threads in the back of the collet while the drawtube threads over the external threads.
I suspect that his homemade drawtube is using the internal threads, thus precluding the use of a collet workpiece stop.
I wonder whether his spindle has the 1-3/8" bore needed to pass a drawtube which works with the external threads -- and passes the 1" diameter workpiece through the collet, spindle and drawtube?
Look at eBay auction # 300373470921 to see one example of the type of stop in question. This one is for a 16C collet instead of a 5C, but the principle is the same.
Auction # 260583925552 is a 5C one similar to what I have. You can turn the end down when using the smaller collet sizes, and then just get some allthread in the right size to make more at need.
Enjoy, DoN.
Reply to
DoN. Nichols
Ahh.. I think DoN got it in the next post. Yeah, if you're talking about the 5C stops, mine works because I made the draw tube in the normal manner of 4140 (which doesn't single point thread that pretty as I recall). Here's some old dropbox links:
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Here's the stop I was referring to, obviously not what you were talking about:
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I have one of those 5C stops, but have never used it. On the other hand, I use the one pictured a fair bit.
Pete
Reply to
Pete Keillor
You have a Rockwell. I have a Clausing 6903 the shorter version of the 6913 that Iggy has. BTW, thanks for posting the pictures.
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That shows how much room I would have when machining near the collet face.
There is all of two inches left and the gearbox is at about the same level as the apron.
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My humble but lovable draw bar. Wally world 2 1/2 lb weight plate purchased years ago for a hand wheel. Needle bearing and washers from Mc Masters and two spacers. The original spacer was just too darn short to get a good grip on the hand wheel.
Wes
Reply to
Wes
Wes, awesome job on the collet closer.
i
years ago for
Reply to
Ignoramus19925
Thanks. The keyway is a bit rough and the protector could have been .040" longer but it gets the job done. The nose protector does a fine job of prying the 4 1/2 MT to 5C adaptor out of the spindle taper so it was worth the effort.
Wes
Reply to
Wes
years ago for
Ah, now I get it. Thanks for the photos.
Pete
Reply to
Pete Keillor
Now you can see why I recommend a collet chuck. Oh well, for now I use the top slide.
Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
Reply to
Wes
So, do you use your closer?
i
Reply to
Ignoramus20711
Lock the cariage, turn compound to 90 degrees and use the handwheel. You have to feed 2x due to how it is marked.
Wes -- "Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller
Reply to
Wes
Ig, I'll bet he does. I know it's by far my favorite way to hold anything that'll fit. I have never used a pot collet yet. If the stock is sized right, collets hold better with less marring of the finish, little runout, and they're fast. Otherwise I use my 4 jaw, not having a decent 3 jaw.
Pete
Reply to
Pete Keillor

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