cost of 9" southbend

I think only the A has the quick change gearbox. It also has both long. and transverse feeds via the leadscrew *spline*, a worm gear in the apron, and a clutch

The B model uses the same apron, and has both feeds as well, but no quick change gearbox.

The C model has a different apron, with only half nuts. So it is capable only of longitudinal feed, via the half nuts. No clutch in the apron, also loose change gears.

Truer words were never spoken. Many folks are either scared away by the 10Ls size, or settle on the 9" model because there are simply so many around. I know I did. But the

10L is so much nicer all around that I even upgraded to a nicer 10L after I had the first one for several years.

Given the choice though, between a clunker 10L and a clunker

9" model A, I would go for the first any time. Many of the 9" machines fall into the clunker catagory simply because they've been around for so long, and used so hard.

Jim

================================================== please reply to: JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com ==================================================

I agree with everything that DoN says, although I've got a 9" model A and am very happy with it. It does have it's limitations, but for my (amateur) use, it's fine. Keep in mind that parts are somewhat (to darned) expensive. I paid $1300 for mine in March, and have put more than that in tooling (including taper attachment, 6" four jaw, headstock chuck, live center, drill chucks for the tailstock, drawbar, and the VERY necessary (or at least darned good to have) quick change tool post, etc). Check out

and for some parts and tooling. Most is imported stuff, but again, suits my needs. You can order free catalogs on the web from them. And Enco has a monthly special catalog that is good to have. I picked up a Phase II tool post for about $90 from their catalog, I NEVER regretted it (but you'll have to machine the t-nut to fit).

Get yourself the book "How to Run a Lathe" by South Bend. Copies are available from E-Bay and Lindsay Publications

for about $9 - $15, plus shipping. You may be able to get it at a library. Even if your library doesn't have it, ask the librarian if the have an inter-library loan program. I was able to get all kind of books that way. Sure you have to give them back, but you can see ahead of time which books are of the most value to you.

Dave Young

Just a tiny correction here: The Model B is a changegear machine with power longitudinal and crossfeed (either/or).

I happen to have a B that needs a full restoration and some spare parts.

GTO(John)

O.K. -- I mis-remembered the distinction. I knew that the 'B' fell somewhere between the full-up 'A' and the bare-bones 'B' (which, aside form size, is pretty much like my 6" Atlas/Craftsman in features).

Glad that it was corrected. (By two people on the newsgroup, actually -- and one (so far) in e-mail.) They always said "If you want to elicit correct information from usenet, post erroneous information. :-)

I've only used a SB once -- back around 1960 I think. It was in the room in which I worked, and I needed to do something to make a bushing nest for a stake terminal (from the head of a slotted screw). Since then, I had access to several at work before I got reasonable machines at home. At work, I used a Monarch 10ee (rather old, with the motor-generator style drive), a rather nice Sheldon, and a new Taiwanese Jet gear-head lathe.

A bit more range at home -- starting with a Unimat SL-1000, then the Atlas/Craftsman 6", then a Taig, then an Emco-Maier Compact-5/CNC, and last (but not least) the Clausing 12x24" with bed turret.

Thanks (to all) for the correction, DoN.

I got the lathe $200. looks to be it very good condition. I do have some questions about collets

put some pictures up. I will post pictures of the lathe in a few days

Keep the 3-phase motor and get a VFD drive on ebay or from Dealers Electric. You can get 1/2 HP VFDs for a bit over $100, then no more belt changes. I've done this to my lathe and mill. Looking to do my drill press next.

Keep the 3-phase motor and get a VFD drive on ebay or from Dealers Electric. You can get 1/2 HP VFDs for a bit over $100, then no more belt changes. I've done this to my lathe and mill. Looking to do my drill press next.

VFDs are "constant torque" and are no substitute for belt changing, with the same motor HP.

Now, with double or triple the original motor HP, a VFD can do roughly the same job as the conventional drive with the original motor.

A 3 HP Monarch 10EE (WiaD or Modular drive, with "compensation" function and

5:1 backgear) can be replaced with a 10 HP motor and a VFD.

That's a 3.33:1, ac (replacement) / dc (original), HP ratio.

But, the Monarch's transmission system is particularly well designed.

Most ordinary lathes and drill presses cannot accommodate a 3X increase in motor HP.

The 10HP retrofit is direct drive only--no backgear.

Monarch also offers a 7.5HP VFD retrofit with backgear that matches or exceeds the performance of the 5HP thyratron drive thru the entire speed range. Not unlike a VFD, the

5HP DC drive is constant torque below about 1300 RPM, constant HP above.

Ned Simmons

The 10HP retrofit is direct drive only--no backgear.

I didn't claim otherwise.

Not unlike a VFD, the 5HP DC drive is constant torque below about 1300 RPM, constant HP above.

It's a VVD, which is, of couse, completely different from a VFD, in concept and in execution.

The WiaD and Modular drives are constant HP from somewhat below the motor's "base speed" to the motor's maximum speed.

No VFD can make the same claim.

What is a VVD???

Paul in AJ AZ

Then what was the point of comparing a 3HP motor with backgear reducer to a 10HP motor without? Not a very useful comparison without that info.

You said it was a VFD on the 10HP.

I assume by VVD you mean vector drive. The implementation of a vector drive is not so different from a VFD. Close enough that many current generation AC drives can run closed loop (true vector with encoder feedback), sensorless vector, or open loop. I have two older Mitsubishi vector drives running open loop on a lathe and a mill.

Do you know exactly what the drive is in both the 7.5 and

10HP retrofits? A true vector drive on the 10HP makes sense to me since the lack of a backgear would make low speed torque and speed regulation critical. I'd expect a regular VFD, or sensorless vector, to perform just fine on the backgear equipped lathe.

Not down to zero speed as the DC drive (or true vector drive) can. But close enough down to perhaps 10% of base speed for a straight VFD, and a bit lower for the sensorless vector drives. Just fine for a lathe spindle when a backgear or belt changes are available for when you need lots of torque at the spindle, or will be running at low speed for extended periods of time.

Ned Simmons

What is a VVD???

Variable Voltage Drive.