DD 3-53 questions

Iggy,

From the picture, the manifold appears to be held with studs and nuts, which are usual and customary. If this is the case, use a nutcracker, chisel or Dremel and cut the remnants of the nuts off. Application of a lot of torque will snap the studs. That can be painful.

Kevin Gallimore

A friend who worked at a muffler shop once told me the boss told them to go right for the heat in such situations. I have waited for PB Blaster and other drugs to work for many days without success in many situations the weren't as bad as what you have there. BTW, if you haven't tried a nutcracker (as suggested in a previous post) a good one works pretty well. ----Assuming that you have the room to fit it. I know guy who simply cut the nut off with an oxy-acetylene cutting torch. I have even done it a couple of times. And, if done properly, you don't even ruin the threads. The rust between the surfaces acts as a barrier to the cutting action--- if you do it correctly.

Pete Stanaitis

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Ignoramus26282 wrote:

It looks like a hydraulic pump to me. Not a huge one, so not for high performance functions like a backhoe, perhaps for a basic loader.

If this picture shows the transmission and output to a 6 belt pulley:

Has anyone here ever tried using Evaporust to remove a rusted-stuck nut?

I haven't, but there have been lots of mention of using automatic transmission fluid ATF, with some acetone added, as a penetrating oil.. some prefer it to Kroil.

Hey WB

I've found that the ATF/acetone works pretty good, but it doesn't stay mixed together (not a problem, just shake before use), but I've never used Kroil so don't know if it's as effective or what...

Also I've had good success with letting candle wax wick into frozen studs and such, but in the pics Iggy put it's not clear to me if you can get to the threads of the fasteners he wants to remove.

Looks like a tough dog of a problem for sure, good luck Ig, even if you can't hear me.

Mike

Yep, I've only read about the successful results of candle wax applied to hot fasteners, and haven't had a chance to try it myself.

As far as Ig's question/problem, he would be aware of at least 6 methods, if he spent the time to read the metalworking topics where others have encountered countless identical problems and solved them.

As usual, there isn't any real need to remove the fasteners AFAICT, since he only intends to try to sell the engine anyway.. so let someone who's smarter deal with the fasteners. And that way he can post the "problem" again in the future.

The box mounted on the engines forward, right hand, corner is the governor and typically one lever is the throttle and, if there is a second, a shut-off. In your photo the front lever, with the attached control rod, is the throttle and the lever with the spring is the shut-off.

I really recommend that you get your hands on a parts and a maintenance manual as the Detroit Diesels were built with a positive multitude of configurations. Your manual governor was built in at least two configurations as well as electrical control. The engine can be configured for either R.H. or L.H. rotation, Starters of various voltages, and can be made to mount on either side; the injectors are interchangeable and there are many different ones, identified by the color of the data plate on the injector, and on and on. Originally there was a data plate attached to the valve cover that listed the part number of the installed components and if that plate is missing, as it often is on old engines, then determining which of the many various components you need is a matter of getting the part number off the starter, for example, and ordering one, rather then ordering a "starter for a 3-53".

Having said that, if maintained by a "Detroit Diesel guy" they were amazingly reliable and long lived - I once had a look at two of the

Cheers,

John D. Slocomb (jdslocombatgmail)

The box mounted on the engines forward, right hand, corner is the governor and typically one lever is the throttle and, if there is a second, a shut-off. In your photo the front lever, with the attached control rod, is the throttle and the lever with the spring is the shut-off.

I really recommend that you get your hands on a parts and a maintenance manual as the Detroit Diesels were built with a positive multitude of configurations. Your manual governor was built in at least two configurations as well as electrical control. The engine can be configured for either R.H. or L.H. rotation, Starters of various voltages, and can be made to mount on either side; the injectors are interchangeable and there are many different ones, identified by the color of the data plate on the injector, and on and on. Originally there was a data plate attached to the valve cover that listed the part number of the installed components and if that plate is missing, as it often is on old engines, then determining which of the many various components you need is a matter of getting the part number off the starter, for example, and ordering one, rather then ordering a "starter for a 3-53".

Having said that, if maintained by a "Detroit Diesel guy" they were amazingly reliable and long lived - I once had a look at two of the

Cheers,

John D. Slocomb (jdslocombatgmail)

Ignoramus26282 wrote in rec.crafts.metalworking on Sun, 09 Jan 2011 11:20:11 -0600:

Can we get some smaller pics. I'm on 56k dialup 'till I get a new computer.

Indeed. Your 3872x2592 images take a while to download, even with a T1 line. And then add the "HEIGHT=80%" which shrinks it after it is downloaded (slow download because of the size and *then* reduce the display size), and that is just insult to injury. :-)

Why not give semi-thumbnails, which are not as large as what you are displaying, and then offer the ability to click on them to get the full resolution -- if you want/need that.

Whenever you post a bunch of images, I find myself pained by the download time. Give people smaller images to *start* with, and the option for larger if someone wants to dig out more information.

Here is a script which will shrink images by an integer ratio, and put the shrunken images in a subdirectory.

====================================================================== #!/usr/local/bin/zsh # # Shrink images by a factor specified on the command line. # If there is no specified factor, use a default of 2:1 # # DoN. Wed Jul 12 20:09:37 EDT 2000 # # Get scale factor or default to 2 # FACTOR=${1:-2} # # Select to produce a progressive loading image # OPTS=-progressive # # Create a subdirectory for the reduced images, and make the # permissions right to allow access # mkdir smaller chmod 755 smaller # # Loop through all .jpg image files in the current directory and # Put a smaller copy in the "smaller" subdirectory # # Skip any which already have an image of the same name in the # "smaller" directory # foreach i ( *.[Jj][Pp][Gg] ) if [ ! -f smaller/$i ] then djpeg -scale 1/$FACTOR < $i | cjpeg $OPTS > smaller/$i echo $i done else echo $i already present -- skipped fi end # # Change the permissions on the individual files so they can be accessed # chmod 644 smaller/*.[Jj][Pp][Gg] ======================================================================

It uses things from the installation of the jpeg libraries, which you probably already have in your linux systems. I call this from another script which makes smaller images, and thumbnails, and leaves the ability for someone to view the full sized image if they want to live with the download time.

Enjoy, DoN.

Oops! You mispledded #!/usr/bin/perl

(You can't NOT know Iggy is a perl guy, right?)

;-)

Of course -- but that doesn't mean that he can't understand a shell script -- and if interested, rewrite it in perl. :-)

Enjoy, DoN.

I do this so that if you click on the image to see it full size, it is already downloaded.

Maybe I should indeed do it.

I thought that less than 1% of people is on dialup.

I use "convert" from ImageMagick to do image conversions.

There is a place for both.

I have 570+ personal scripts and 631 bash functions. That was written over 16 years of my digital life.

Out of them, 356 are shell scripts and 218 perl scripts.

I have many other things written for specific projects, that I am not counting in the above.

It was not clear that this was even an option -- so I checked it and it worked. With the mouse over the image, I just see the Url in the bar at the bottom of the screen, which only suggested that I would re-download it if I clicked on it.

I'm not on dialup -- but even with a T1 line, it takes quite a while to download. About 5 seconds for the browser to start up, and then an additional 33 seconds for the image to completely download.

The file is 3.9 MB, which is about 118 K/S. So your end (or something in between) must be throttling the download somewhat as well as the limitations in my T1. I calculate that I should get about 194 K/S from the T1 alone.

In any case -- 30 seconds or so is a bit long to wait for an image which initially displays as a partial screen image.

O.K. Certainly a reasonable alternative. the djpeg one has the advantage (or disadvantage, depending on your point of view) of only doing a binary interger conversions -- that is -- a 2:1 or 4:1 reduction, not a 3:1 or 3.14159:1 conversion. This requires a lot less work on the pixels to make them fit -- just averaging four or sixteen or so pixels into one, with no calculation to make the averaging work out over incompatible bit counts.

Since I usually fire up the script on a directory containing quite a few images, and on slower machines (the ones acting as my web servers), the extra speed is a significant benefit.

Enjoy, DoN.

Must be VERY dependent on where you are. This area has only had high speed available for a year. Just up the road you revert to dial up and Verizon has no plans to change that anytime soon. I know of a lot of areas that are the same with only dial up available.

The latest Federal numbers say that 6% of internet users are still on dial-up.