DFX to Gerber?

I think I can do it with CATIA Richard. You'd think the board maker would have this capability. Did you ask?

JC

Never mind. I can write out machine instructions for a bunch of machines but can't output Gerber's file format. You might try these guys. I believe they offer file translation as a service.

JC

(...)

Your fastest, cheapest way is probably to re-capture using a freeware schematic / PCB layout tool.

Their pricing formula is: $55 + ($0.65 * NumberOfBoards * BoardAreaInSquareInches) + ($1.00 * NumberOfBoards) + Shipping.

(Plus tax, inside California)

If shipping is ~12 bux,

Boards

1 89.45 2 111.9 3 134.35 4 156.8 5 179.25

Standard 2 layer layout size is limited to 12" x 14". As you know, it's silly to buy just one board.

Their fab shop is captive and they probably won't release the Gerber to a competitor.

--Winston

THOSE shops, the ones that have layout capability seem to be the most expensive. The local guy was really nice, but said he couldn't even look at it for less than $1500 to $1800 NRE. I read that as his 'staying in business money' - or maybe 'don't waste my time' money?

So far, the three I've actually talked to just insist that it has to be in Gerber. I don't think the actual people have a clue what that means. It's just what the company wants - so that's what they say.

The china shop? Beats me. I haven't spoken them yet. (what a hoot!)

But at the bottom of the page they want Gerber 274 files and NC drill file(?).

I'd get 4 boards from a panel. With the heavier copper plate option they would come to $35 to 40 a piece. Which I can live with for 4 boards. (It's not like anybody else would be interested in an 8 Mhz XT core at this late date)

Remove the mighty X from my return address.

Better yet, I'll CC this to the address(es) I have for you, John. Sending to both UBU and non-ubu. One of 'em outta get through!

If that works, I'll send you the files.

Would you prefer DFX or DWG for import? I made version 13 of both. But they bulk some.

And, hey John, whether it works or not, thanks for offering.

According to their web site they are pretty confident they can. I'll send them a note and get started!

Thanks.

What I think I can write out is RS274-X. The NC drilling code is a piece of cake. At least I'm familiar with that. Circuit board layout is beyond my experience but I have the module.

UBU is a black Lab. I put that in thinking a munged address would decease SPAM but apparently that's old hat.

No prob. I've got a new 64 bit box to finish seting up and an injector body and fuel manifold for a third stage TKUS workhorse engine that has suddenly decided to give me a little grief again. It's really been one of those days...

I'm getting to old for this stuff but there has been so little money put into rocket engine development since the shuttle that most of the people that knew how to do this work are either dead or retired and the young bucks that are coming in are great designers but have little experience with the manufacturing side of the business.The machine shops that used to build prototypes are long gone, mostly because they couldn't find kids that wanted to be anything but investment bankers and we live in a country that seems to feel that makin' stuff is beneath us. Idiots.....

JC

Unless the Chineese take off for Thanksgiving Day... (hey, it's a global village, remember? It could happen!)

This one looked pretty good to me.

I downloaded Eagle CAD, but I'm not too impressed with it. (And it doesn't seem to make Gerber files either, so WTF?)

Besides, it's a bit of a job drawing that mess out. Even if you already know where everything goes. So I'd rather not, if I can get away with it.

Here is a pic of the board.

's not real big, but way too much to hand drill at home!

That's the stuff they want! I'd offer a wooden nickle if you might be willing to give it a try!?!

It's kind of a cross between jigsaw puzzles and psycho self abuse... You definately go blind.

Big Belly Laugh that would make Gunner jealous!

Just wait till those new kids start trying to build Saturn V's again!!!

'No Sir, no idea why it blew up! The Computer Analysis said it was fine!"

That sounds a like what I'd have to do. It also sounds like you actually know what you are doing.

JC

cavelamb himself wrote: (...)

Shore it does. Real RS274X and 40 other flavors. Select 'board' then 'CAM'. Select your post processor and layers. Click 'Process Job' You are off to the races.

You're a brave man, Richard. 2 layers?

--Winston

I will, but Winston seems to have a better solution for you.

That isn't going to happen unless the Ruskies get sideways on us. The work here is the third generation of a design proposed for heavy lift back in the seventies. The stuff I'm doing is for land and sea based interceptors.

We've had pretty good luck so far. I'm lucky to be working with a bunch of really smart guys.

JC

(...)

I've done that stuff, once or twice. :)

--Winston

Ping these guys:

No Guts, No Gory!

(or was that gLory??)

I think it's done, Winston.

Except for the probably painful redrawing in Eagle. But maybe these guys at Graphicode will come through.

Getting enough metal in the grounds is the real challenge. I have a magic trick for that - should it be needed. But it's a pretty small board, so maybe not.

I dunno, John.

They keep saying we are going back to the moon (someday real soon now).

We aren't going to do that with small efficient rockets. Takes raw brute force. And LOTS of it.

But you probably know more about that than I do.

Pinged! Or is it Punged?

That's a pretty good offer - about the same as China. But I'd like to have 4 OZ copper. Will talk to them tomorrow.

I really like the special student offer!

Free MacDonald's gift card with every order of less than 4 and special pricing too!

This looks like more complete software than Eagle.

Anybody want to make odds on whether an autorouter can complete my little board in the same space?

I'm offering 10:1 against.

You can drill that by hand no problems, probably take 15 to 20 minutes. Get some HSS 3mm shank pcb drill bits and whack them in the drill press on max rpm. I find they blunt very quickly using FR4 fibreglass board as the drill speed is not high enough. If you can get it try using phenolic board, its cheaper and drills way easier. I've found the carbide drillbits a too brittle for hand use in a drill press, they do cut superbly though.

To line up the two sides print to overhead film on a laser and lay them back to back, line up the pad holes and run some tape down the side of the two overhead films. Have the taped bit an inch or two from the edge of the pcb to minimise the error due to the thickness of the pcb that will be placed between them. Expose one side, then the other. It takes a littke care but I'm pretty rough and have not had too many problems. Increase pad and track sizes as much as practical - makes it more robust for homeshop manufacturing.

For outsourcing it maybe look at

I found them inexpensive, quick & good quality. For a Chinese company their email communications were fast and intelligible.

Pickup a copy of Circuit Cellar (Fry's, B&N, etc), there are plenty of ads for PCB houses that will do your board for around $50.

Dude, that looks like a really old design, can you even source some of those parts? I think a redesign with more modern parts would cut the parts count, board complexity and physical size considerably.