Sounds like a TapMatic, or a Procunier, or even a Buck/Ridgid
Supreme VersaTapper tapping head. I have two sizes of the TapMatic, and
one of the Buck for larger taps.
They all use planetary gears to slow the speed during tapping,
and speed up during backing out.
I've fitted each with a MT-2 arbor to fit my drill press, but it
will work just as well with a cylindrical shank in a collet or tool
holder in the mill.
Mind you -- none of these are particularly affordable, new. All
of mine came from used sources, and the Buck one is out of production
No kidding. Even the small import starts at about 150-199. Still as
machine tools go they are well worth that and then some if you tap a lot of
holes. I tap so many 10-32 and 1/4-20 holes I hardly ever take my tapping
heads off their respective drill presses. I'm actually thinking about
setting up a drill press island in the shop. 6 bench tops around a table
with my most common drills and taps all premounted and only removed to be
replaced with the same size when they get dull.
Hmm ... have you looked at the Burgmaster turret drill press?
Search eBay on: "Burgmaster turret drill press"
and you will find a number, from quite reasonable prices to quite scary
I learned about them because my #30 Tapmatic was marked as being
for a Burgmaster turret drill press.
The press has 6 spindles, so you can have it set up with three
drills and three taping heads -- save a lot of space vs your island of
six drill presses. :-) (Or, six tapping heads with drill-taps, if you
are making through holes.)
The first hit is auction # 172509444719
but it has only 12 hours to go, so it may be sold by the time you see
If you are planning to buy six drill presses for your island,
even one of the more expensive (and in better shape) ones might be worth
Note that each spindle has its own depth stop, which makes it
good for drilling and tapping with a Tapmatic head. (I keep planning to
get one, but have not yet. :-)
Your island would make more sense if there are more workers in
your shop than just you. The turret press is better for a single
On Sat, 04 Feb 2017 11:45:36 -0800, email@example.com wrote:
I ran the big Gorton mill at Gunners to tap the little handle we made
for the height adjuster on the DP table. A knob on the VFD + an
ON_OFF_ON switch controlled the speed and direction. That was sweet.
My buddy Glenn has a VFD and speed knobs for his mill, too. It _sure_
as hell beats changing belts, the way I learned in 8th grade.
One word frees us of all the weight and pain of life: That word is love.
Yes -- with the exception that changing belts is still
necessary for high torque at low speeds, or for achieving top speed (if
the combination of top belt speed and top VFD boost does not go too fast
for the bearing in the mill. (Of course, with some mills, there is
simply the variable speed crank on the pulleys. :-)
I've only worn a tie about three times, since 1972. That was when I
was in the Army. After that, it was for one wedding, and two funerals.
Before you ask, it wasn't for the same people.
The shop classes I took in the mid '60s stressed removing any loose
clothing, before class started. No ties, sweaters or baggy long sleeve
shirts were allowed. If a shirt was long sleeve, the cuffs had to fit
tight, and be buttoned. This was due to the fact of the metalshop and
woodshop teachers having been hired from factories.
In the mid 70's I read an article that expressed surprise at the
'uniform' of a t shirt and jeans that had become standard for
engineering in small high-tech startups, I think in defiance of IBM
and Xerox. As recently as 10 years ago an article on Segway commented
on the similar 'dress code' there. I never saw anyone imitate Dean,
I set up a foot switch on the mister on my manual mill. I ran on small
compressors for several years before finally getting a large commercial
duty job, so was always looking for ways to cut air consumption.
Also had a foot switch set up with an outlet so I could use it for my
drill press or shop vac.
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
Just make it so it is in a guard, so something falling, or a
foot placed wrong won't start it while you are changing drill bits in
the chuck. A quonset-hut shape bolted to a mounting plate for the
switch would be good.
Perhaps put it in series with the switch on the drill press
head, so both have to be on to run the motor. Or a center-off switch
with one position for motor on without the foot switch engaged, and in
the other position, the motor waits for the foot switch.
What I've done with my 1977 or so drill press is replace the
motor with a three-phase one, with a small VFD on the side and three
push buttons on the front. Two in guards for forward and reverse, and
one with a big red cap for stop. (Oh yes, and a pot for speed.) The red
STOP button is in the place easiest to reach, and I can even hit it with
my nose to stop while both hands are occupied. :-) What I really like is
to set the speed to barely turning, hit the FWD button while the tip of
the bit is engaged, and then up the speed once it starts cutting.
But -- there are times when I would like to have a foot switch,
perhaps just for stop.
My drill press has a toggle switch that connects either the regular
switch or the foot switch. So even if the foot switch is left on the
floor it won't energize the drill press if the toggle switch is in the
regular position. The setup works great.
I walk with a cane, so I installed a footswitch about 15 years ago.
That lets me work one handed, with the added feature that if something
goes wrong just stepping back from the drill press will turn it off.
Mine is wired in series with the rocker switch for the motor, and it is
rated for 20A. This allows the light to be turned on, when it's needed.
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