FA DUMORE TOOL POST GRINDER

If the unit is in good shape (spindle tight etc.) not bad deal at $150.00 or less. Big caviat - Needed accessories *will* cost a grand.

Ken.

Ken,

Can you say more about what the needed accessories are? I've got one of these that I inherited. It's missing the belt, and there are no grinding wheels for it. The motor runs well, and the spindle turns smoothly, although of course it's not been run at full speed.

Thanks, Pete

A new belt for a series 44 is $50.00 in Canada, new brushes $25.00 each, this will give you some idea how the cost of components will run.

Jack

I can't say everything, as I am still gathering things for mine. But some things to check whether you have them or not:

0) You should be able to get the belts for not too much from MSC or other vendors. 1) shield for the wheel when used for OD grinding. * 2) Wrenches to hold the pulleys while removing the nuts to change pulleys. * 3) Flanges for the OD wheels, and the nut for securing that (they use, of course, an uncommon thread. :-) You can make the flanges on your lathe, at least. And if you are set up for small internal threading, you can make the nut as well. 4) Collet assembly for using mounted stones for internal grinding. This also threads onto the uncommon thread, making it more difficult to make one. * 5) Mounted diamond for dressing the wheel prior to cutting. * 6) The T-nut for mounting it to the toolpost slot on the compound. 7) Wrenches to keep with it to fit the common adjustment points.

The ones marked with '*' are ones which I still need to acquire or make. I would love to see a scan of those wrenches for the pulleys, so I can have a better chance of making them. (But, if someone has such, please *don't* e-mail the scans to me. They will get automatically bounced by the size limit which keeps my mailbox clear of most virii.) Drop me a note, and we can discuss where the images can be put so I can get them.

Good Luck, DoN.

This I thought I'd make, at least until I fail at making it safe enough. I figure 1/8" steel formed and brazed should do pretty well.

Ah, hadn't thought about this.

I've got one set of flanges and the nut, but making more ought to be a good exercise.

Another good exercise. Any suggestions for the collets to use assuming I'm starting with none? I've chosen ER-40 for my mill and thought I'd keep with ER for other collets, probably ER-16 for this application.

Another good idea I hadn't considered. It probably won't surprise you to know I've never used a TP grinder.

Got one (lathe and TP grinder came from my grandfather).

May I suggest the dropbox since they'll likely stay around for a long time?

Thanks for your help, Don.

Pete

>

Probably should. I would make the mounting collar on the lathe, to make a nice slip fit onto the spindle cartridge. I'll probably try turning mine entirely from solid steel stock, as I don't (yet) have welding equipment, nor do I have slip rolls.

I did -- because at present, I have only the ability to mount the OD wheels, and the current pulley configuration is *way* too fast for those wheels. Until I either make the wrenches, or the collets for the mounted stones for ID work, I don't dare run it with a stone on it. :-)

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Nothing that big. Consider the range of speeds (just look at the chart on the motor). And consider the size of the stones vs the size of the collets. You will need to reach deep into the ID of some workpieces.

As I see it, you only need two sizes of collets, 1/8" and 1/4" for mounted stones. I would make each to screw onto the spindle directly, thread the OD, turn a taper on the nose, and slit it, and make a skinny long nut to close down on it. Each one would have a closer nut just enough bigger to allow it to work. I'm not sure whether anyone makes mounted stones in 1/16" shank sizes, and the 1/16" dental burrs are not going to survive those speeds. :-)

You *might* be able to make a collet spindle for the Dremel collets, but I don't hold much hope of those being really good for the task. I would consider the tiny Foredom ones (for the extra-flexible shaft extension and handpiece) before Dremel.

Nor have I -- yet. But I *have* and use a small surface grinder.

[ ... ]

That would probably be the best -- unless whoever scans and posts does not want them to be around forever. :-)

You're welcome.

Best of luck, DoN.

P.S. Of course you know about how you really need to be anal about keeping the grinding swarf away from the precision surfaces of the lathe. That is one reason why I haven't been in a great hurry to complete this project.